slowindown

Thanks shadetree. We’re at a campground for the 4th but I’m planning on running by the house today for a bit. I’ll unplug it and see what happens. By the way, if I didn’t mention earlier, I bought this mower new in 2013. It now has a bit over 1000 hours but I remember it doing this for at least the last 3-4 years on occasion.

When I’m back home I’ll order one and definitely try that. If that don’t fix it, after the mowing season I’m going to unbolt the engine, spin it where I can get to both heads and replace the head gaskets and adjust the valves. My thought has been that because of the symptoms I described above and the remedy (cooling the heads), that when it’s super hot there’s not enough compression to start. here’s a pic from the head gasket of one with the same engine with what was described as an identical problem I don’t seem to have any other symptoms of a blown head gasket though.

When I sold my 02 rancher I gave the guy a brand new unopened shindy carb kit for it. I told him in the future if it ever gives you any trouble to use the shindy kit. He said he’d just buy one of those cheap (China) carbs. I said you can do what you want but you’ll probably never get one that’s right. Use the shindy kit. It’s not much work and I’m giving it to you.

This thread is like a good good mystery novel. I feel like we’re about to find out whodunnit.

Grandpa covered all the bases. lol

Did you use blue sea brand isolators like in the Link, which is a marine company or an isolator from another marine company? mine was mounted under the hood in the battery box. It got wet. While I rode through about 2’ depth of the pond and some creeks occasionally, I not one to really submarine a machine. I never had any issues with it.

This is a great thread by the way.

It wouldn't hurt to set it up so you could plug your winch into your main battery also in case you had run your second battery down with the light bar and stereo and then got stuck.

On my rhino I ran a VSR (voltage sensing relay) like the one I’ll link below. I ran all of my non oem accessories off of the second battery. With a vsr your main battery will always be charged. When it’s fully charged, the vsr sends the additional current to your second battery to keep it charged. That way if you leave your light bar, radio, etc on too long and they run your 2nd battery down your main battery is still charged for starting - it will not allow your accessories to pull power from your main battery. https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Automatic-Charging/dp/B00BFVHL2I/ref=asc_df_B00BFVHL2I/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241948264947&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14480099667360099083&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9014077&hvtargid=pla-570648928063&psc=1

They're not spaced densely. They're initially in a train and spread out. There's also lots of redundancy. Space is mostly empty - that's why we call it space. lol

as expected slower at night

There are no options where I live except Hughes net which wasn’t very good and att fixed which pulls from a cell tower. Starlink will be available by the end of the year in my area. we can stream tv and movies with only rare speed issues Pic of the fixed wireless antenna

Jeep I just tested my att fixed wireless speed and am posting a pic of the results below. I’ll try and remember to check this evening and do the same when I imagine speeds are slower bc of more people at home. Anyway if you’re a reasonable distance from an att tower you might consider that. Our plan is 350 gb. We’ve never gone over, even when kids come home for the holidays and whatnot. We cut the cord so all our tv is streaming.

Great find!

Beamtech is the fanless brand I’ve seen on can am forums.

I fly rc too - at least I did. I haven't flown in probably 6 years. All of my planes are glow fuel powered, not even sure if it's still available. I still mow my runway though. . .

I’m interested in starlink, especially if or when it’s available to take with you, like if we’re taking the camper somewhere

Let us know how the headlight bulbs work without a heat sink, which your linked headlight bulbs don't have. Tech may be better now. But when I experimented with hi/low LEDs for my 06 yamaha rhino several years ago, I found was that the bulbs without the heat sink were not actually very bright. To look at them head on, they seemed to be bright but that was just an illusion caused by the whiter color of the leds. To drive around at night, they were very near useless. But when I got some leds with a heat sink and a fan and they were awesome. The 06 rhino had an oddball bulb and I had to take two old rhino bulbs and dremel out the ring and install it on the leds so they would fit the housing. In the end, they worked great. There are some out now with a heat sink but without a fan that a lot of can am people use with good luck. For tail lights, non heat sinked bulbs were all that were required for me.

There's a wealth of information on the subject in the link bcsman posted above. Here’s a pic of the grease that had turned into tar and made it so the shift motor could barely change a gear. As I recall, it had gotten to where before I cleaned it I could change maybe a couple of gears and then the shift buttons did nothing until I turned the key off and on. I often had to use the manual shifter to get it to change. Be careful when you take the little cover off. One of my bolts broke - but I think that is rare. It was very difficult to extract that broken bolt - you can see it left middle of the pic.

Did you change the grease in the gears and push the old grease out of the bearings and new grease in as suggested? that’s exactly what mine was doing before I did the above as mentioned

We’re rural. We have att fixed wireless - there’s a cell tower about 400 yards away. We’ve had it about 2.5 years and have never went over our data cap. We canceled dish so our only source of television is streaming. $50/mo. If I ever change it will be to spacex starlink. But apparently it’s priced at 100/month.

Definitely agree that it won't work right without a good battery with a good state of charge. A bad battery even on the charger on the jump position often wont work even though it's enough to start the motor. I had to replace the grease in mine last year (02 350). The grease had turned into a gummy tar like substance. I used mobil one synthetic recommended by retro in the link I'll post below. I also cleaned the shift motor. I used crc electrical contact cleaner for that. In addition to just adding new grease, you need to pack the little bearings as they'll have crappy grease in them too which needs to be pushed out. You can do that with your fingers. When I finished mine shifted like new. Be careful when taking the cover off, one of my bolts had rusted itself in which caused quite a pain in the butt removing after it broke off - I think that's fairly rare because I couldn't find any posts about it other than mine. I'll add retros link and a couple of pics of what the old grease looked like.