BillN 12 Posted November 10, 2020 Inherited 2001 TRX350 XE (3100 miles) which hadn’t been started in couple of years. Changed gas, new oil and filter, new air filter. Added carb cleaner to gas. It starts but the choke must be held closed until it warms up and then the idle adjustment must be set very high. After a few minutes of driving the rpms are too high and must be adjusted down. Any suggestions. Thanks. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
toodeep 1,759 Posted November 10, 2020 Welcome to the forum. First step would be to remove the carb, disassemble it and clean it really good making sure al the ports will pass air/cleaner through them. If it's really bad you might need to soak it in cleaner for some time depending on how dirty it is. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BillN 12 Posted November 10, 2020 Thanks toodeep! I am afraid that you are right on the money. I was hoping that it might be something like a fuel filter but I cannot find one unless it is inside the fuel tank. The carb is obviously fuel starved so guess I will plan an afternoon to get the job done. I wonder if they sell a kit for that carb? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sled_22 845 Posted November 10, 2020 They do sell a rebuild kit but don't buy a cheap china one. OEM or Shindy would be most's recommendations here. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goober 1,555 Posted November 10, 2020 2 hours ago, BillN said: Thanks toodeep! I am afraid that you are right on the money. I was hoping that it might be something like a fuel filter but I cannot find one unless it is inside the fuel tank. The carb is obviously fuel starved so guess I will plan an afternoon to get the job done. I wonder if they sell a kit for that carb? You have the service manual? Necessary! buy OEM parts from Rocky Mountain or Partzilla or other sellers. Be very careful with those rubber parts esp piston valve dont get carb cleaner on them 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BillN 12 Posted November 10, 2020 Thanks sled22! I think it wouldn’t be smart to start the job without a kit since I am sure that I will need a gasket at least an heaven knows what else. My carburetor has a removable top. Remove two screws and you can lift it off what appears to be a stainless steel disk and look down into the carburetor. I wonder why they designed this in. It makes the top of the carburetor readily available. Goober I have a manual from Haines but perhaps I should buy the OEM manual. By the way I am in Pensacola Florida. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Wilson_™ 6,591 Posted November 11, 2020 yes! avoid Haynes, and clymers manuals , get yourself a oem honda manual. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
toodeep 1,759 Posted November 11, 2020 The factory manual should be found in the menu bar here in PDF format, free. I can give some tips on removing the carb since they are a pain on this model but you'll have to wait until tomorrow. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BillN 12 Posted November 11, 2020 15 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said: yes! avoid Haynes, and clymers manuals , get yourself a oem honda manual. I am well on my way to getting the OEM manual. Thanks! Is there a reliable company which will trade a rebuilt carb for my present carb? It might be more practical for me to go this route. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shadetree 5,969 Posted November 11, 2020 18 hours ago, BillN said: Thanks sled22! I think it wouldn’t be smart to start the job without a kit since I am sure that I will need a gasket at least an heaven knows what else. My carburetor has a removable top. Remove two screws and you can lift it off what appears to be a stainless steel disk and look down into the carburetor. I wonder why they designed this in. It makes the top of the carburetor readily available. Goober I have a manual from Haines but perhaps I should buy the OEM manual. By the way I am in Pensacola Florida. remove 2 screws an top comes off ?, please post a pic of this carb. and please post a pic of your atv. your first post says trx350 xe ^^ ?, there is no such thing as this model. going out on a limb here, i'm guessing your atv is a 2001 trx350te ? which is 2wd, or a 2001 trx350fe ?, which is a 4wd model. both of these models have 4 screws on the top of the carb, under the cap is a diaphragm slide, with a large spring in the middle. shindy carb rebuild kit is in order here. yes, the tank has a fuel filter bolted up through the very bottom of it attached to the petcock. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BillN 12 Posted November 11, 2020 My apologies. My first post identified my vehicle incorrectly due to a typo. The correct model is a TRX350FE. The owner’s man refers to it as a Fourtrax 350 4x4 ES. The picture below shows the top of the carb with two screws visible and two screws covered up by the hoses. . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TBRider 1,411 Posted November 11, 2020 I bet there are 2 more screws under those hoses.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fishfiles 20,147 Posted November 11, 2020 Hi BillN , welcome to the forums , ES and FE are the same thing , electric shift , one of Honda's signature achievements >>>> I am right down the road from you is southeast La > 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BillN 12 Posted November 11, 2020 Thanks Fishfiles. I have decided to go ahead and remove the gas tank, clean it out throughly and clean the filter/screen before I remove and clean the carb. A partially blocked filter/screen could be a major part of my troubles. I have downloaded the OEM Shop Manual. It is far better than the Haynes manual and answers most of my questions. Nice to meet another good old southern boy. Cheers! 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BillN 12 Posted November 28, 2020 Folks: I installed a new carburetor and am glad to report that my TRX350FE runs like a new machine. Thanks to you all for your suggestions. One other problem has arisen. My machine shifts normally in all forward gears - no problem. When I try to to put it in reverse however from neutral it’s a no go. I go through the procedure of pushing down the red button and simultaneously squeeze the brake lever as I have always done but no R appears on the digital display. Pushing down the red button allows me to simultaneously engage a second lever below the break lever which then moves with the brake lever. i read the trouble shooting guide and it wants me to check the continuity of a pin located on a connector in a spot difficult to access. Can I check the reverse switch up on the handle bars somehow or maybe I should just go ahead and replace it. By the way I can shift manually ok. Thanks! Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 797 Posted November 28, 2020 Hi: This should help you out --- Unplug the P8 connector -- put bike in reverse and check the Gray/Red wire on the connector side doing down to switch. --- you should have continuity on the Gray/Red wire to ground when bike is in reverse 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BillN 12 Posted November 29, 2020 Thanks Melatv. That is the measurement I need to make. I have already taken the side covers off and I can see 8P and 5P but since I have big hands I guess I will have to take off the rear finder to get at it. I wonder if there isn’t a easier way. By the way can you put the transmission in reverse using the manual tool? Thanks. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BillN 12 Posted November 29, 2020 After some more inspection I see that I can access both 8P and 5P through the wheel well. I looks like it might be easier if I remove the tire. Thanks! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeepwm69 7,719 Posted November 30, 2020 On 11/28/2020 at 3:41 PM, BillN said: Folks: I installed a new carburetor and am glad to report that my TRX350FE runs like a new machine. Thanks to you all for your suggestions. One other problem has arisen. My machine shifts normally in all forward gears - no problem. When I try to to put it in reverse however from neutral it’s a no go. I go through the procedure of pushing down the red button and simultaneously squeeze the brake lever as I have always done but no R appears on the digital display. Pushing down the red button allows me to simultaneously engage a second lever below the break lever which then moves with the brake lever. i read the trouble shooting guide and it wants me to check the continuity of a pin located on a connector in a spot difficult to access. Can I check the reverse switch up on the handle bars somehow or maybe I should just go ahead and replace it. By the way I can shift manually ok. Thanks! Bill Normally there is a single wire that goes off the bottom rear of the engine. If it comes off, or isn't making a good connection, your machine will not shift into R using the ES buttons. Check that single wire. Has a bullet connector on the end. If it's on the sensor, pull it off and ground the wire on the engine, and then try to shift into R with the button. The wire plugs onto #10 in this schematic. http://www.adeptpowersports.com/oem-parts/2005-honda-fourtrax-rancher-es-trx350te-rear-crankcase-cover-assembly.html 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BillN 12 Posted November 30, 2020 Jeepwm69: I just now read your post and went out to my garage and crawled under my 4 wheeler. I looked on the rear of the engine and found a wire that had come loose. I reattached it and tried to put it into reverse and in it went with no problem. You saved me a lot of work and trouble shooting shooting and I deeply appreciate it. CHEERS! BillN 4 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeepwm69 7,719 Posted November 30, 2020 Glad it was a simple fix! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites