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freebo86

04 Foreman 450ES - Clean up, Repair, Maintenance & Enjoy

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First of all, I wanted to say Hello and introduce myself the new to me machine. I have posted a couple of times on this forum already to ask for help and advice so it was time to formerly introduce and create a thread. Been always intrigued by 4wheelers, ridden on them a few times but never owned one. In general enjoy cars and working on them and always wanted something to take into the woods and trails so the only logical approach was to get a 4wheeler. I do appreciate their simplicity and the fact that its not the main means of transportation so I am not under the gun to get it repaired. I didn't want to spend a lot as I wasn't sure how much I'd enjoy it at first and with my limited free time it would sit more than get used so I could not justify spend big money for the time being. Wanted to go with a Honda for various reasons; 1- reliability, 2- the sheer amount of part bikes out there to get parts of and many years of compatibility between parts 3) cost was fair. After looking for a bit and a couple of Honda Rincon's falling through and most others I found had no papers to go with the machine which was no good to me I stumbled on this 04 450ES with 8k miles on it. The person was the 2nd owner and used it for Hunting. Machine as you can tell needs a bit of TLC from both the Aesthetic Side as well as the Drive/Suspension side. I'll use this thread as a journal with the every day do's that I fix and do on it.

 

Feel free to recommend and give advice on MODS, Upgrades or Maintenance Items I should look after. As of now I've had the bike for about a month and it's gone on one trip out and the electric shift stopped working on me (think I got this addressed - water in a connector) its been in the garage on jack stands most of the time 🙂

 

It came with;

- Front Disc Brakes (Quadtrax brand?)

- 27" Tires - still decent tread left

- Front Honda Warn Winch (I had to dismantle, clean and re-grease) works the very best.

- Rear Superwinch (used for hauling game near the 4wheeler, this winch has been removed).

- Fairing

- Front Wheel Spacers

 

Since I've picked up the machine I've done a fair bit of fixes and additions to it.

- First order of business was one of the front axle boots was torn so I replaced that.

- Rear Wheel Bearings were done.

- One front Wheel bearing.

- Left side Upper and Lower Ball Joint.

- Diff, Oil and Oil Filter were changed.

- Couple of the shock bushings were shot.

- Opened, Cleaned and Re-greased the Shift Motor.

- All the plastic was refastened using new 10mm plastic push-pins (most of the holes were wallowed out for the OEM 8mm to work properly)

- Added a Rear Back Seat I picked up off Marketplace. Had to re-do the back plywood support as it was broken off and couldnt be fastened properly to the seat back.

- - Rear Brakes were completely seized, had to break away the CAM Bolt, install new shoes and a new rear parking cable (mine stretched). In the process of trying to break the CAM Bolt free the brake plate cracked on me. Currently JB Weld is holding it together until I can source a used one.

- Plastic welded the front lights, some of the tabs had broken off and the light would move/bounce around.

- Repaired the main seat, installed new fabric on it and it was recovered.

- Baked the FCU in the oven and got it revived again for the time being. Every time I would start the machine, the High Oil Temp light would come on dim, flicker, disappear, come on etc. after reading online and finding someone suggesting I bake the unit it fixed it and the Oil Temp Light comes on strong now during turning the key and goes right off and stay off also the Fan now properly kicks on when it needs to (it came on during my first trip after a long time of riding).

- Electrical Connectors were pulled to have di-electric grease installed (still in progress).

- Muffler was cut open to repair baffle inside and re-weld. Also had a hole in the spark arrestor that I had to repair as it was torn off. In Canada we do not require spark arrestors.

 

The night it was picked up.

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First order of business was Axle Boot and some Wheel Bearings.

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Rear Brakes

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Muffler Repair

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Edited by freebo86
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Next order of business was getting the lights properly fastened to the front end as the tabs had let go. Out came the plastic welder.

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Next I picked up a good 2up seat for cheap and had to do minor repairs on it for the back rest pad ot properly fasten. Installed a new 3/8s craft board and all  is well.

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Repaired the seat foam a bit and installed a new cover over it.

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New Seat cover.

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58 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

nice job on the muffler! that brake arm cam i believe I'd try and file down / dress up. 

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Thanks! I did spend more time on that brake arm to clean up that part. The brakes work good now. Hopefully that brake panel holds up and the JB Weld doesn't let go.

 

My other order of business and plan for visual 

Replacing of the decals I have those coming

Going to Sand down and buff out the plastic to hopefully bring the color to life.

Painting of the Racks.

 

Also, the tires I will see for the time being but not sure how much I want to stick with 27".

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very nice build, please keep everyone up to date on your restoration on this !.

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So last night finished up the Upper and Lower Ball Joint on one side. Went in smooth, a 36mm-3/4" drive socket works well once you grind down the teeth so it doesn't ruin the boot on the new joints. Also, picked up a small grease needle (not sure why I didn't do this before) but this allowed me to grease up the Tie Rod Ends and get grease in the boot without damaging them.


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The wife got me a early bday present which is a 12" Light Bar c/w wiring kit. Not sure if I want to use this wiring kit I was hoping to tie this straight into the existing light wiring and connect to the High beam (blue) wire but I'm afraid it may be too much for the circuit. The light has no indication of what the actual draw & wattage of it is.. What is your guy's thoughts? Use the provided wiring setup, with relay etc.? The under seat battery area is getting jammed full of stuff already with the winch solenoid box etc. I'm thinking of taking this and relocating it to the rear besides muffler storage compartment cubby. I just hate having extra wiring all over the place so if I avoid having to use that new wiring harness.

 

64E319CF-EC0E-4853-BA7D-9E6AEF0DED4A.jpeg

 

Edited by freebo86
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Use the P=IE to determine amp draw:

P is power in Watts

I is inductance in Amps

E is electromotive force in Volts

if you can find watt equivalencies (LEDs) of the unit (web site?) divide by 12 volts

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1 hour ago, freebo86 said:

 


 

 

The wife got me a early bday present which is a 12" Light Bar c/w wiring kit. Not sure if I want to use this wiring kit I was hoping to tie this straight into the existing light wiring and connect to the High beam (blue) wire but I'm afraid it may be too much for the circuit. The light has no indication of what the actual draw & wattage of it is.. What is your guy's thoughts? Use the provided wiring setup, with relay etc.? The under seat battery area is getting jammed full of stuff already with the winch solenoid box etc. I'm thinking of taking this and relocating it to the rear besides muffler storage compartment cubby. I just hate having extra wiring all over the place so if I avoid having to use that new wiring harness.

 

64E319CF-EC0E-4853-BA7D-9E6AEF0DED4A.jpeg

 

My first few light bars I used relays and wiring kits , not no  more ---- hook the LED bars and flush mounts right to existing wires and you won't have any problem 

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36 minutes ago, Goober said:

Use the P=IE to determine amp draw:

P is power in Watts

I is inductance in Amps

E is electromotive force in Volts

if you can find watt equivalencies (LEDs) of the unit (web site?) divide by 12 volts

 

Thanks, but I do know how to determine the draw and the formulas. Issue is the Amazon Link lists no wattage for this particular unit. Some comments & questions asked by others indicate stuff all over the place. One guy reported its 400Watt lol.. If I knew the wattage I could determine if it will fit on the existing (10A or 15A) lighting circuit.

 

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07DW7CYTR/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

 

Just now, Fishfiles said:

My first few light bars I used relays and wiring kits , not no  more ---- hook the LED bars and flush mounts right to existing wires and you won't have any problem 

 

Yah well I wanted to do this and Tee right off the headlight wiring which is right below where this light will be but I'm concerned of overloading the CCT.

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Your running all that off the existing Lighting Circuit lol?

 

I guess your headlights are converted to LED so they are lower draw than the OEM stuff (3x30W) plus your steering column headlight is a LED which is less than the OEM 45W.

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I run a 9" bar on mine without any issues, but I have mine on a switch, I can turn it on without the key also, just incase I need lights in the shed when I dont have the quad key on me....

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I operate mine on a separate handlebar mounted waterproof switch.

i built a Y subharness that plugs into the accessory circuit. 

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4 hours ago, freebo86 said:

Also, picked up a small grease needle (not sure why I didn't do this before) but this allowed me to grease up the Tie Rod Ends and get grease in the boot without damaging them.

 

you can also use that needle to grease them later on down the road, just pick a spot easy to get to, i would choose the back side, I've done mine before and makes a world of defrence in steering, using bel-ray water proof grease, plus there's always a small grease spot where the needle went in, so, next time i have a reference mark to stick the needle in, some here have said they've done c-v joint boots like that, but i wouldn't go there, lol, because of too much boot flex. 

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4 hours ago, freebo86 said:

Your running all that off the existing Lighting Circuit lol?

 

I guess your headlights are converted to LED so they are lower draw than the OEM stuff (3x30W) plus your steering column headlight is a LED which is less than the OEM 45W.

there are two more LED pod on the rear rack  , two cooling fans , 1000w sound system -- and it has two batteries 

IMG_8284.JPG

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1 hour ago, Fishfiles said:

there are two more LED pod on the rear rack  , two cooling fans , 1000w sound system -- and it has two batteries 

IMG_8284.JPG


where did you squeeze a secondary battery lol? Did you see my post above about complaining on the lack of space below the seat.. and considering relocating my winch solenoids 

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The second battery is in the rear storage box >>>>>>  the winch solenoid is under the cooler fan , you can barely see it right behind and under that  tube tee'ed off the snorkel ,  which is the amp enclosure cooler tube 

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So this arrived earlier today. Found a new Prefex along Travel kit for a 01-04 TRX 500. Should fit my 450 with minor modifications I Hope. 01D100D4-706A-425E-B003-7DEB01D8FE00.jpeg

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Frebo' what is the story on that kit , looks like shock extensions , right ? 

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Just now, Fishfiles said:

Freebo' what is the story on that kit , looks like shock extensions , right ? 

 

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Posted (edited)
On 1/1/2021 at 9:05 AM, Fishfiles said:

Frebo' what is the story on that kit , looks like shock extensions , right ? 


Partially, its a lift kit but it’s actually a long travel/relocation kit. What it does it adjusts the shock position and straightens them out more 1) giving a better and smoother ride 2) gives you 1.5 to 1.75” lift as well. There is two settings (holes) where to fasten the bottom mount of the shock one giving a firmer ride and the other a smoother ride. 
 

This is made by a company called Perfex (Canadian) and they still have kits for some machines, harder to find for the Foreman. If you search Perfex Long Travel Kit Foreman you will see feedback and discussions on other forums on this kit and that it I guess makes quite the difference in ride and comfort. I was lucky and stumbled on this on eBay. 
 

I still haven’t had a chance to install it. Been out 4 times riding this past week and was great. Really enjoy the Foreman. Hoping to tackle more repairs starting tomorrow again and this lift/travel kit being one of them. 
 

- Lower steering bearing needs to be replaced

- one of the rear lower shock mounts needs replacing 

- Install Perfex Kit

-Valves need to be adjustment.

 

I am also noticing a backfiring phenomena when decelerating from higher speeds and RPMs down. But this seems inconsistent and sometimes it does it and other times not. 

Edited by freebo86
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12 hours ago, freebo86 said:

I am also noticing a backfiring phenomena when decelerating from higher speeds and RPMs down. But this seems inconsistent and sometimes it does it and other times not. 

 

Unless you have a leaky exhaust somewhere your backfiring on deceleration issue might be caused by a failing air cutoff valve. An explanation can be found here:

You can test that cutoff valve easily after removing it from the carb by sucking on the vacuum hose to verify that (1) - the diaphragm holds vacuum and (2) - that air flow through the two ports is being shut off while you are pulling a vacuum on it. Check that the brass tube under the valve is clear and that its two rubber o-rings are in good condition as well.

 

testing-cutoff-valve.png

 

EDIT: Here is what your 450 cutoff valve looks like....

 

cutoff-valve.png

 

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7 hours ago, retro said:

 

Unless you have a leaky exhaust somewhere your backfiring on deceleration issue might be caused by a failing air cutoff valve. An explanation can be found here:

You can test that cutoff valve easily after removing it from the carb by sucking on the vacuum hose to verify that (1) - the diaphragm holds vacuum and (2) - that air flow through the two ports is being shut off while you are pulling a vacuum on it. Check that the brass tube under the valve is clear and that its two rubber o-rings are in good condition as well.

 

testing-cutoff-valve.png

 

EDIT: Here is what your 450 cutoff valve looks like....

 

cutoff-valve.png

 


Thanks for the thread retro, I will give it a read. 
 

This may give you a bit more insight into my issue also, so if the ATV sits for a while and I try to start it cold - no issues. Pull the choke, hit the button and it fires up and we’re off. Let’s say I ride for a while, turn off the bike for a break and try to start it then it starts hard. Cranks longer and almost won’t fire takes quite a few tries... 
 

 

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It sounds like the motor is running too lean then. if it starts hard while its warm. I'd check the cutoff valve & hose first. If that isn't the cause then its probably a carb issue... are the jets in the carb all stock OEM Honda parts or have you put an after-market set in it??

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Just now, retro said:

It sounds like the motor is running too lean then. if it starts hard while its warm. I'd check the cutoff valve & hose first. If that isn't the cause then its probably a carb issue... are the jets in the carb all stock OEM Honda parts or have you put an after-market set in it??


I bought the ATV about a month and a bit ago so I don’t know what’s in the carb. I can tell you that when I got the machine the idle on it was set super high. I used one of the inductive units and it read 2300 rpm at idle so I adjusted it with the idle screw down to approx 1300. 
 

But if the guy previous to me did anything to the carb I have no idea. Any way I could tell? I’ll check your recommendation first. Would be be worthwhile to dismantle the carb and clean it? 

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