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freebo86

04 Foreman 450ES - Clean up, Repair, Maintenance & Enjoy

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First order of business was Axle Boot and some Wheel Bearings.

  

Rear Brakes

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Next order of business was getting the lights properly fastened to the front end as the tabs had let go. Out came the plastic welder.

 

 

Next I picked up a good 2up seat for cheap and had to do minor repairs on it for the back rest pad ot properly fasten. Installed a new 3/8s craft board and all  is well.

 

 

Repaired the seat foam a bit and installed a new cover over it.

 

 

New Seat cover.

    

 

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58 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

nice job on the muffler! that brake arm cam i believe I'd try and file down / dress up. 

image.jpg

 

Thanks! I did spend more time on that brake arm to clean up that part. The brakes work good now. Hopefully that brake panel holds up and the JB Weld doesn't let go.

 

My other order of business and plan for visual 

Replacing of the decals I have those coming

Going to Sand down and buff out the plastic to hopefully bring the color to life.

Painting of the Racks.

 

Also, the tires I will see for the time being but not sure how much I want to stick with 27".

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very nice build, please keep everyone up to date on your restoration on this !.

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So last night finished up the Upper and Lower Ball Joint on one side. Went in smooth, a 36mm-3/4" drive socket works well once you grind down the teeth so it doesn't ruin the boot on the new joints. Also, picked up a small grease needle (not sure why I didn't do this before) but this allowed me to grease up the Tie Rod Ends and get grease in the boot without damaging them.

 

 

The wife got me a early bday present which is a 12" Light Bar c/w wiring kit. Not sure if I want to use this wiring kit I was hoping to tie this straight into the existing light wiring and connect to the High beam (blue) wire but I'm afraid it may be too much for the circuit. The light has no indication of what the actual draw & wattage of it is.. What is your guy's thoughts? Use the provided wiring setup, with relay etc.? The under seat battery area is getting jammed full of stuff already with the winch solenoid box etc. I'm thinking of taking this and relocating it to the rear besides muffler storage compartment cubby. I just hate having extra wiring all over the place so if I avoid having to use that new wiring harness.

 

 

 

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Use the P=IE to determine amp draw:

P is power in Watts

I is inductance in Amps

E is electromotive force in Volts

if you can find watt equivalencies (LEDs) of the unit (web site?) divide by 12 volts

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1 hour ago, freebo86 said:

 


 

 

The wife got me a early bday present which is a 12" Light Bar c/w wiring kit. Not sure if I want to use this wiring kit I was hoping to tie this straight into the existing light wiring and connect to the High beam (blue) wire but I'm afraid it may be too much for the circuit. The light has no indication of what the actual draw & wattage of it is.. What is your guy's thoughts? Use the provided wiring setup, with relay etc.? The under seat battery area is getting jammed full of stuff already with the winch solenoid box etc. I'm thinking of taking this and relocating it to the rear besides muffler storage compartment cubby. I just hate having extra wiring all over the place so if I avoid having to use that new wiring harness.

 

64E319CF-EC0E-4853-BA7D-9E6AEF0DED4A.jpeg

 

My first few light bars I used relays and wiring kits , not no  more ---- hook the LED bars and flush mounts right to existing wires and you won't have any problem 

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36 minutes ago, Goober said:

Use the P=IE to determine amp draw:

P is power in Watts

I is inductance in Amps

E is electromotive force in Volts

if you can find watt equivalencies (LEDs) of the unit (web site?) divide by 12 volts

 

Thanks, but I do know how to determine the draw and the formulas. Issue is the Amazon Link lists no wattage for this particular unit. Some comments & questions asked by others indicate stuff all over the place. One guy reported its 400Watt lol.. If I knew the wattage I could determine if it will fit on the existing (10A or 15A) lighting circuit.

 

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07DW7CYTR/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

 

Just now, Fishfiles said:

My first few light bars I used relays and wiring kits , not no  more ---- hook the LED bars and flush mounts right to existing wires and you won't have any problem 

 

Yah well I wanted to do this and Tee right off the headlight wiring which is right below where this light will be but I'm concerned of overloading the CCT.

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Your running all that off the existing Lighting Circuit lol?

 

I guess your headlights are converted to LED so they are lower draw than the OEM stuff (3x30W) plus your steering column headlight is a LED which is less than the OEM 45W.

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I run a 9" bar on mine without any issues, but I have mine on a switch, I can turn it on without the key also, just incase I need lights in the shed when I dont have the quad key on me....

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I operate mine on a separate handlebar mounted waterproof switch.

i built a Y subharness that plugs into the accessory circuit. 

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4 hours ago, freebo86 said:

Also, picked up a small grease needle (not sure why I didn't do this before) but this allowed me to grease up the Tie Rod Ends and get grease in the boot without damaging them.

 

you can also use that needle to grease them later on down the road, just pick a spot easy to get to, i would choose the back side, I've done mine before and makes a world of defrence in steering, using bel-ray water proof grease, plus there's always a small grease spot where the needle went in, so, next time i have a reference mark to stick the needle in, some here have said they've done c-v joint boots like that, but i wouldn't go there, lol, because of too much boot flex. 

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4 hours ago, freebo86 said:

Your running all that off the existing Lighting Circuit lol?

 

I guess your headlights are converted to LED so they are lower draw than the OEM stuff (3x30W) plus your steering column headlight is a LED which is less than the OEM 45W.

there are two more LED pod on the rear rack  , two cooling fans , 1000w sound system -- and it has two batteries 

IMG_8284.JPG

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1 hour ago, Fishfiles said:

there are two more LED pod on the rear rack  , two cooling fans , 1000w sound system -- and it has two batteries 

IMG_8284.JPG


where did you squeeze a secondary battery lol? Did you see my post above about complaining on the lack of space below the seat.. and considering relocating my winch solenoids 

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The second battery is in the rear storage box >>>>>>  the winch solenoid is under the cooler fan , you can barely see it right behind and under that  tube tee'ed off the snorkel ,  which is the amp enclosure cooler tube 

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So this arrived earlier today. Found a new Prefex along Travel kit for a 01-04 TRX 500. Should fit my 450 with minor modifications I Hope. 01D100D4-706A-425E-B003-7DEB01D8FE00.jpeg

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Frebo' what is the story on that kit , looks like shock extensions , right ? 

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Posted (edited)
On 1/1/2021 at 9:05 AM, Fishfiles said:

Frebo' what is the story on that kit , looks like shock extensions , right ? 


Partially, its a lift kit but it’s actually a long travel/relocation kit. What it does it adjusts the shock position and straightens them out more 1) giving a better and smoother ride 2) gives you 1.5 to 1.75” lift as well. There is two settings (holes) where to fasten the bottom mount of the shock one giving a firmer ride and the other a smoother ride. 
 

This is made by a company called Perfex (Canadian) and they still have kits for some machines, harder to find for the Foreman. If you search Perfex Long Travel Kit Foreman you will see feedback and discussions on other forums on this kit and that it I guess makes quite the difference in ride and comfort. I was lucky and stumbled on this on eBay. 
 

I still haven’t had a chance to install it. Been out 4 times riding this past week and was great. Really enjoy the Foreman. Hoping to tackle more repairs starting tomorrow again and this lift/travel kit being one of them. 
 

- Lower steering bearing needs to be replaced

- one of the rear lower shock mounts needs replacing 

- Install Perfex Kit

-Valves need to be adjustment.

 

I am also noticing a backfiring phenomena when decelerating from higher speeds and RPMs down. But this seems inconsistent and sometimes it does it and other times not. 

Edited by freebo86
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12 hours ago, freebo86 said:

I am also noticing a backfiring phenomena when decelerating from higher speeds and RPMs down. But this seems inconsistent and sometimes it does it and other times not. 

 

Unless you have a leaky exhaust somewhere your backfiring on deceleration issue might be caused by a failing air cutoff valve. An explanation can be found here:

You can test that cutoff valve easily after removing it from the carb by sucking on the vacuum hose to verify that (1) - the diaphragm holds vacuum and (2) - that air flow through the two ports is being shut off while you are pulling a vacuum on it. Check that the brass tube under the valve is clear and that its two rubber o-rings are in good condition as well.

 

testing-cutoff-valve.png

 

EDIT: Here is what your 450 cutoff valve looks like....

 

cutoff-valve.png

 

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7 hours ago, retro said:

 

Unless you have a leaky exhaust somewhere your backfiring on deceleration issue might be caused by a failing air cutoff valve. An explanation can be found here:

You can test that cutoff valve easily after removing it from the carb by sucking on the vacuum hose to verify that (1) - the diaphragm holds vacuum and (2) - that air flow through the two ports is being shut off while you are pulling a vacuum on it. Check that the brass tube under the valve is clear and that its two rubber o-rings are in good condition as well.

 

testing-cutoff-valve.png

 

EDIT: Here is what your 450 cutoff valve looks like....

 

cutoff-valve.png

 


Thanks for the thread retro, I will give it a read. 
 

This may give you a bit more insight into my issue also, so if the ATV sits for a while and I try to start it cold - no issues. Pull the choke, hit the button and it fires up and we’re off. Let’s say I ride for a while, turn off the bike for a break and try to start it then it starts hard. Cranks longer and almost won’t fire takes quite a few tries... 
 

 

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It sounds like the motor is running too lean then. if it starts hard while its warm. I'd check the cutoff valve & hose first. If that isn't the cause then its probably a carb issue... are the jets in the carb all stock OEM Honda parts or have you put an after-market set in it??

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Just now, retro said:

It sounds like the motor is running too lean then. if it starts hard while its warm. I'd check the cutoff valve & hose first. If that isn't the cause then its probably a carb issue... are the jets in the carb all stock OEM Honda parts or have you put an after-market set in it??


I bought the ATV about a month and a bit ago so I don’t know what’s in the carb. I can tell you that when I got the machine the idle on it was set super high. I used one of the inductive units and it read 2300 rpm at idle so I adjusted it with the idle screw down to approx 1300. 
 

But if the guy previous to me did anything to the carb I have no idea. Any way I could tell? I’ll check your recommendation first. Would be be worthwhile to dismantle the carb and clean it? 

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Yeah, if the cutoff valve checks out OK then I'd Either buy a genuine Shindy carb kit (Shindy is the only kit that includes correctly sized jets), or buy new OEM jets and swap them in.... for peace of mind in case the previous owner may have put a china kit in it.

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