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Gator1957

Carb Questions

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I got my quad in a shrewd trade for a 86 dodge ram diesel 4X4 with a rotten frame. I think I got the better end of that stick! it was back in 2012 and the quad only had 1100 on the odometer in the 21 years since it was born! 8 years later and I think it has made it to 1500 now!! Anyway... it has always Been a bugger to start when cold or it has sat for more than a day. It turns over like crazy, but that's it! maybe a minute or a little more and it will sputter and give me hope that it will kick to life. Once it starts it's a trooper. Start it tmr, no problems, wait another day and it's wash, rinse, repeat. So, Here's the $64 question... WHY? Is it a Honda thing? I haven't torn into the carb yet. Tiny springs and such are beyond my eyesight any more! If it hits the floor...order a new one! The guy I traded said that the only thing he found wrong with it was he could always smell gas. Ever since I've had it I have not once smelt gas?? Is it just a case of time and it needs a good cleaning and new seals, gaskets?

Depending on the answers above hers part 2.

If it needs a kit and cleaning are there some tried and true tweaks that should be done? up a jet size? squeeze a setting here or there? I know these are work horses and won't be intimidating an OUtlander anytime soon but I would like to have it running like a champ.

thanks in advance

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Something seems wrong, I have a 2000 Foreman with 2100 miles and it starts right up even on the coldest days. You can intimidate an Outlander as long as you turn into them right off the line and keep pushing them into the woods. 

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Hi Gator, what are ya working on? Is the carb an original or has it been replaced?

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Sounds like carb is dirty, fuel filter is dirty(if it has one) or valves need adjustment. Those would be places i would be starting. But you will want to post more than just the year of the quad. You will recieve alot more help that way!

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2001 foreman Rubicon 500 original as far as I know carb. the guy I got it from said he got it from an old guy and it had 500 on the clock in 2010.It really does run fantastic once its running. Doesn't matter how hot or cold it is outside. As I live in southern Ontario the temp range can be in the high 30C to low -30C( -22F to 86F) . But if it sits for a couple days it turns over and over

When he said that it always smelled of gas I suspected dirty gas bypassing, but as it cleared up I didn't give it a second thought

 

Edited by Gator1957

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If there's more info you need/want let me know and I will get it for you. ( I'm still used to the "other" site where you would get sarcasm instead of help!)

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Thanks for the extra info! Its old enough that it probably needs the fuel system freshened up beginning with a fuel tank flushing and inspecting the petcock & strainer. I'd take the tank off and remove the petcock first. Then clean any sediment & dirt out of it. The strainer may be in bad shape (its plastic, ethanol fuel destroys them) so replace that... then remove & disassemble the carb and do a thorough cleaning and reassemble to factory specs following the '01-'03 Rubicon service manual's guidance.

 

We are here to help ya in every step, we can do sarcasm too! But ya gotta throw the first punch.... most of us are getting pretty old & slow ya know. 🙂

 

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Retro, I love competitive sarcasm! It's fun when meant to be. I got so fed up with the other forum when you ask a question and someone chimes in that its been asked before!" Don't you know how to search?" To Me it's so much more productive to say" hey, look here and I think you will find your answer". Common Decency. Too many people don't have a clue!!

I am nearing the bottom of a tank of fuel so I will pull it and see what falls out!

How makes/has the best kits out there? OEM or aftermarket?

Are the stock jets the best or can they be helped?

I would also say that since I'm a newbie here, I am blown away by everyone here that welcomed me and everyone else that is new here. I have gotten very helpful replies to my 2 questions here so far. I really appreciate the camaraderie here.  Way to make a guy feel welcome😂

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Maybe we're just lonely.... but we are always prompt with our welcomes! And they are genuine too! We're very glad that you are here!

 

In case you are on a phone rather than a computer Gator, I'll drop chunks of the service manual here to help ya get started.

 

Note that the two petcock bolts sometimes can be seized in the brass ferrule nuts that are embedded in the bottom of the fuel tank. If they are seized and you try to loosen them with a socket & ratchet those ferrules might spin inside the plastic. So before you remove those two petcock bolts smack the heads of the bolts with a plastic hammer and a drift punch pretty firmly. Then use an impact (air or electric powered) to loosen those bolts. And hope that works.... 🙂

 

fuel-tank.png

 

strainer.png

 

The carb may not require any new parts (maybe gaskets), but if it does a Shindy carb kit is recommended. The stock original jets and other metal parts in the carb are the best quality, so expect to reuse them if they are in decent condition. The Shindy kit contains all gaskets and jet replacements in case ya need them though.

Fire away if you have any questions.

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many here say shindy carb rebuild kits ..... if you can't find an oem kit. just tossing in, i myself would go with a shindy too. but i would go with what retro said fuel tank then go from there. what's got me is the bike runs fine after it's running, ever see a gas puddle under the bike after it' sits for over night ? 

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Just My opinion!  if the thing runs and idles correctly after it has started, I would first check valve clearance !

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100% with guidance sofar.
 

you will def need the service manual to understand where to find carb model number and first be assured it is OEM.
 

yes drain fuel to assess fuel flow and inspect tank interior. I usually remove the petcock and fuel gauge then wash with soapy water and long handled bottle brush.

 

Parts-wise These carbs usually have a primer plunger, a choke (enrichment valve) and gaskets that deteriorate with age. I always replace these parts when I rebuild a carb. several carb kits offer a range of replacement pieces —Shindy is pretty dependable—I’ve used K&L, Quad Boss and OEM. OEM doesn’t offer a complete kit—there’s a gasket kit, a main jet kit, a float needle, pilot screw and jets all separate. 
 

Typically you can get an aftermarket rebuild kit for $30, SE valve for $40 and primer plunger for $30. the Honda shop will rebuild your carb for ~$275.

 

If you DIY. The piston valve may be made of rubber so be careful not to wet it with carb cleaner.  I don’t soak my carbs in dirty fluid because the tiny primer plunger channel goes from the bowl to a tiny brass spray head in the carb throat. More details as you go forward 

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Just to add. So my 04 Foreman has been sitting now turned off since Jan 3rd since I've been doing some work to it, never made it further then just turning the Ignition to ON to check my circuitry on accessory wiring.

 

Last night, things were buttoned so it was time to start. Fired up like a champ. Now once its warmed up, starting is another story, @retro gave me some troubleshooting on that I need to check.

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All the info above is bang on. One thing I would be also checking in the carb before u spend $$ is adjust the A/F screw. U say it’s even harder to start when left out in the cold? This is prime example of a carb that was set up for running in warm weather. I just mention this, as I ran into the same issue this fall. I changed my pilot jet to a larger one, & all it needed was a tweak on the fuel screw. They require more fuel in the cold as the air is denser. 
 

just some food for thought..

Edited by Wheeler
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Thanks for all oh this help. This weekend I will get started on this. Is it possible to delete the fuel screen altogether and just put an inline filter in? That way you can easily change it out if needed and if it has a clear case, monitor the condition of the fuel.

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Deleting the strainer is not recommended since debris may then plug the small fuel passage through the petcock. However you can add a filter inline if you wish.

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5 hours ago, Gator1957 said:

Thanks for all oh this help. This weekend I will get started on this. Is it possible to delete the fuel screen altogether and just put an inline filter in? That way you can easily change it out if needed and if it has a clear case, monitor the condition of the fuel.

I wouldn’t make a bunch of changes. If you inspect the completely empty tank You could rule out debris and water pretty quick. 
 

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