2000 Honda rancher trx350fe issues

[toodeep 1,758]

That looks like the spacer for the carburetor heater. On the bottom/front/middle of the carb body.

[bcsman 1,382]

+Yep agree with toodeep...

[ChadD 44]

Ty. I found that and for the life of me didn't recognize it. Thought that might be my problem. Lol

[bcsman 1,382]

Nothing is ever that easy.....

[ChadD 44]

1 hour ago, bcsman said:

Nothing is ever that easy.....

NEVER EVER!!!!!!

[ChadD 44]

Ok boys and girls this is exactly how it appeared when I took the rear case off. Look right to y'all?

[retro 4,048]

Thanks for those Chevy II Pics! I always wanted to build a '67 but I never got serious enough to buy one. I was building SBC motors for Camaros and BBC motors for Chevelles for NHRA SS classes back in the late 60s through late 70s. Then I met a guy with one arm that drove dirt circle track like I had never seen before and we partnered up and formed a team. We put our first car on the track mid-season and he finished 4th, 2nd and 1st in our first three nights along with a fastest qualifier and a four-car dash win. We finished 4th in points that season (missed 3rd by only a few points) despite the fact that we missed half of the season. The following season we moved to the top in the Super late models alcohol class and dominated until we both got poor and nearly bankrupt and gave up on building & racing. I never did drive any of the race cars that I helped build and fund, not even once. I was just the motor designer & builder. Though I did learn suspension & steering setups eventually. I still miss the building, but not the racing. Got too old and poor to be trying that again. 🙂

[retro 4,048]

9 minutes ago, ChadD said:

Ok boys and girls this is exactly how it appeared when I took the rear case off. Look right to y'all?

 

Yep, thats right.

[retro 4,048]

I would check that Gear Position switch using a multimeter and the continuity test page that I posted earlier in this thread. I suspect that GP switch is bad...

 

You can prove that the internals are assembled correctly by shifting through every gear using the emergency shifter and a 12mm wrench. If you can grab every gear its probably alright.

[ChadD 44]

15 minutes ago, retro said:

Thanks for those Chevy II Pics! I always wanted to build a '67 but I never got serious enough to buy one. I was building SBC motors for Camaros and BBC motors for Chevelles for NHRA SS classes back in the late 60s through late 70s. Then I met a guy with one arm that drove dirt circle track like I had never seen before and we partnered up and formed a team. We put our first car on the track mid-season and he finished 4th, 2nd and 1st in our first three nights along with a fastest qualifier and a four-car dash win. We finished 4th in points that season (missed 3rd by only a few points) despite the fact that we missed half of the season. The following season we moved to the top in the Super late models alcohol class and dominated until we both got poor and nearly bankrupt and gave up on building & racing. I never did drive any of the race cars that I helped build and fund, not even once. I was just the motor designer & builder. Though I did learn suspension & steering setups eventually. I still miss the building, but not the racing. Got too old and poor to be trying that again. 🙂

That's cool. Been around drag racing since I was 16 and got my first car, 68 Camaro RS 327 glide, but raised 4 kids and just couldn't afford it until I got my job at the chemical plant. Now I'm too old to do it but still young enough at heart that I'm doing it anyway. It just takes one pass and your hooked to the most expensive drug in the world. So from the pic I posted we can rule out the indicator is 180 out?

[retro 4,048]

The trans is in Neutral in your pic, so yeah, the GP switch was installed right.

[ChadD 44]

5 minutes ago, retro said:

I would check that Gear Position switch using a multimeter and the continuity test page that I posted earlier in this thread. I suspect that GP switch is bad...

 

You can prove that the internals are assembled correctly by shifting through every gear using the emergency shifter and a 12mm wrench. If you can grab every gear its probably alright.

It did shift through all the gears N-5 and you could hear them shift, ! I rode it. But there is no neutral. Neutral seemed to me to be actually 3rd gear. If you shifted into 1st the gearing is so high it won't move. 2nd gear on the indicator I assumed was actually 5th. I don't know but I'm about to crack this egg open. Lol

[retro 4,048]

3 minutes ago, ChadD said:

It just takes one pass and your hooked to the most expensive drug in the world.

 

YEP!!! There is no cure either!

 

Check that GP switch before you tear it down. I suspect that switch is your only problem. If it is bad the shift ECM goes wonky, which explains why your indicator is not showing the correct gear as well.

[ChadD 44]

1 minute ago, retro said:

 

YEP!!! There is no cure either!

 

Check that GP switch before you tear it down. I suspect that switch is your only problem. If it is bad the shift ECM goes wonky, which explains why your indicator is not showing the correct gear as well.

Umm a little too late for that. Lol plus when it shows neutral it will not shift down any further, using either the electric shift or the manual. Would you guys go ahead and convert it to manual shift while I got it tore back down ? I was thinking, is it possible to install the shift drum 180 out? It kinda seems like that may be the case since the gears seem to shift 3 then 4 then 5 then 1 and 2nd in the last position ?

[retro 4,048]

If I remember right, the reverse lockout groove in the end of the shift drum goes full-circle around the drum so it can't be installed 180 degrees out. But you can get the middle shifting fork out of place and that might be what happened to yours?

 

Remove the reverse lockout lever from the case if you haven't already.... then use a screwdriver to rotate the shift drum through each gear while you turn the output shaft by hand.... see if you can find Neutral that way?

[retro 4,048]

Another possibility... I'm not sure you could get the shift forks in wrong or not but they must be installed in order. Each are marked for their location. Top, center and bottom. Here is the entire order of assembly.

 

[ChadD 44]

I haven't touched a thing yet. Just split the case. I know it's hard to see but it's the best I can't do.

[shadetree 5,867]

4 hours ago, ChadD said:

Ok I was cleaning up the bench and fou d this under a rag. Anybody recognize this piece?

yep, it mounts under the carb heater, its the spacer. the heat slide through that, then you screw the heater to the bottom side of the carb.

[ChadD 44]

Shift drum out so y'all can see fork locations.

[shadetree 5,867]

unless you did not get a shift fork in the correct groove on the shift drum ?, I would just pull the whole assembly out, stack it back together, and install it all over again, paying close attention as you go, making sure all your gears are on the shaft's facing the correct way. make sure your shift forks have their letters facing up, R on bottom, C in middle, and last one on top, which would be F.

[ChadD 44]

Lol. Shadetree that's exactly what I was thinking. I have went back through the manual and I can't find a thing wrong with it. This is exactly how it came out. Looks right to me.

[toodeep 1,758]

Did you try to rotate it when it was still together to see if a shifter wasn't shifting out completely and turning 2 different gears?

[ChadD 44]

I did try to turn it. Acted like it was binding up.

[bcsman 1,382]

When you put it together you should be able to turn the shift drum fully both ways and watch the forks rotate around the slots.  It should move smoothly also watching the gears go up and down with the fork movement...

 

If binding then something ain't right...

[bcsman 1,382]

I also had one of the gears installed upside down which wasn't letting the fork move it as it should....it was affecting the middle fork..