retro 4,073 Posted June 12, 2021 The Angle sensor is good no doubt, the harnesses are good too so no point in spending any more time on the Angle sensor circuit. You can mount the Angle sensor back on the motor. Key off, unplug the Ignition CDI 4p connector. Refer to the pic below for location of the CDI. Check for continuity between the Blue/Yellow wire inside the CDI 4p connector and Blue/Yellow wire inside the 16p shift ECM connector. Plug the CDI back in. Unclip from the frame and unplug the Speed sensor 3p connector located on a right-side rear area of the frame. Check for continuity between the Pink/Green wire inside the Speed sensor harness 4p connector and Pink/Green wire inside the 16p shift ECM connector. Plug the Speed sensor back in and clip it back onto the frame. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted June 12, 2021 We have continuity on both b/y and p/g wires. Well it ballgame time so I’m out of here. I appreciate all the effort today. I’ll be back out here Monday morning. Retro you especially have s good Sunday, I appreciate you man. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,073 Posted June 12, 2021 Ok good. Enjoy your ball game Bossdaddy and have a great weekend! We are through with all testing for now and we were very thorough. We even tested a couple circuits that are irrelevant to the ES just in case. The only component remaining that we cannot verify right now is the Speed sensor, since the Speed sensor receives it's 5 volts power supply from the display meter that is away for repair. But during our first rounds of tests we did verify that the speed sensor was receiving 5 volts through the Black/Blue wire from the display meter. And two times we have verified continuity between the Speed sensor Pink/Green wire and the Pink/Green wire in the Display meter connector and the 16p shift ECM connector. So if the display meter shows MPH vehicle speed after you get the meter back, then the Speed sensor is definitely good. My conclusions are that your shift ECM has failed since it does not supply power to the main relay coil. We tested that circuit very thorougly and we double checked the result of those tests. There is no doubt remaining that the original shift ECM requires a replacement. New OEM Honda Shift ECM cost is about $258 from Rocky Mountain ATV/MC. In event you would like to verify again that the shift ECM is bad before you order a new one, you can review those tests beginning here: I also believe that we have proven that the loaner shift ECM that I mailed to you has failed. Apparently it died during the last 2-3 years in storage since I last tested with it. I apologize for shipping you a dud that wasted your time. These were challenging experiences and fun. Let's see if we can close it out with smiles all around eh! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted June 12, 2021 Again I do appreciate your time and patience with me, I'll order a new one and we will see where that goes. Thanks 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted June 16, 2021 First off I want to again thank all for the help I got on trying to fix my Foreman. Melatv and retro went thru this thing thoroughly, testing everything , retro when through it again and went even farther all came up with a bad ECM and I believe in them. The next thing that happened just blew me away. I bought a 2000 Honda Foreman 450 ES that shifts perfect. I took the EMC off of the 2000 and put it on the 2001 and nothing happens when I try to shift. I then took the original 2001 ECM and put it on the 2000 and nothing happens when I try to shift proving the 2001 ECM is bad but I've still got the problem even through I've got a proven ECM installed. If anyone has got any sugestions that might help please share them with me. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 797 Posted June 16, 2021 Hi: Be gone for a few days -- back home again -- WOW this is one to solve -- Try this remove the Engine Relay from the 2001 and replace it with the Engine Relay from the 2000 -- if it shifts If not change out the ECM leaving the 2000 Engine Relay in place and try again. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,073 Posted June 16, 2021 I'm with Mel, the relay may be passing enough voltage to pass our tests, but not passing enough current to operate the shift motor. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 797 Posted June 17, 2021 18 hours ago, Melatv said: Hi: Be gone for a few days -- back home again -- WOW this is one to solve -- Try this remove the Engine Relay from the 2001 and replace it with the Engine Relay from the 2000 -- if it shifts If not change out the ECM leaving the 2000 Engine Relay in place and try again. If that didn't work remove the Engine Relay and place a jumper into the R/W wire of the Engine Relay connector and the other end of jumper on the Positive of the battery and try each ECM again. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted June 17, 2021 Guys I'm sorry I wrote the below reply yesterday shortly after Melatv instructed me but like an idiot I never submitted it. OK guys I pulled the relay off the 2000 installed it on the 2001, I tried it with both ECMs and got no shifts, I then put the 2001 relay on the 2000 and it shifts good. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 797 Posted June 17, 2021 Okay now do the test with jumper Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted June 17, 2021 Just did the test with jumper and nothing happened with either ECM. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 797 Posted June 17, 2021 I told you wrong with the R/W wire -- that should have been place the jumper into the R/Y wire in the Engine Relay connector and other end of jumper on the positive of battery -- try it please Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted June 17, 2021 Got the same results, nothing happened with either ECM Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 797 Posted June 17, 2021 Key was on when you did the last test and was the jumper making good contact with the Y/R wire in the relay connector? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted June 17, 2021 (edited) Yes, key on, jumper making good contact. R/Y Edited June 17, 2021 by Bossdaddy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 797 Posted June 17, 2021 Can do this -- on the 2000 unplug the speed sensor and see if the 2000 will shift Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted June 17, 2021 I went back and rechecked the making good contact. I had key on and the up button depressed then moved the jumper wire slightly and got a tiny spark but no shift. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 797 Posted June 17, 2021 Okay -- now do the speed sensor on the 2000 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted June 17, 2021 Unplugged speed sensor and it shifts. Picture is making sure that is the speed sensor I unplugged. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 797 Posted June 17, 2021 Okay -- now we know that the speed sensor is not needed to shift. --- You are 73 and I am going on 78 -- I am not giving up on this bike --- Retro jump in here 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted June 17, 2021 Hey I'm a fan of both you guys, it's killing me we can't find the problem. I'm not giving up on y'all. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,073 Posted June 17, 2021 I am still studying too. Unplug the regulator rectifier on the 2001, see if it shifts with the 2000 ECM plugged in? Battery must be fully charged, if it isn't recharge it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted June 17, 2021 Battery reading 12.43v, unplugged regulator rectifier, with 2000 ECM plugged in attempted to shift, nothing happened. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,073 Posted June 17, 2021 Do the headlights work on the 2001? Does the motor start and run with the kill switch in the "Run" position, using the electric starter? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites