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JaneFonda

One way bearings on my 86 250trx

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Good day all! First post here!

 

So apparently BOTH one way bearings have bitten the pooch on my old reliable 86. I bought this old girl about 10 years ago for $600 and haven't spent a dime on it except gas and oil changes (nice synthetic stuff too 😉 ).

 

The starter gear on the starter itself got chewed off by the intermediate gear, because when using either it or the kickstart you could hear it kick back on the starter and crunch.

 

Now, with the starter disabled, the kick start doesn't catch anything MOST of the time and when it does it doesn't spin the engine enough to fire. I have been told I need to replace BOTH the one way bearings. 

 

Should i remove the engine for this endeavour? Or just do one side at a time with the bike on its side for easy of access??

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Welcome Jane lots of good help here, gotcha an oldie but goodie there....

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I suppose the biggest issue I have with the engine removal would be the driveshaft? Is it just splines? Pull the engine forward off the driveshaft?

 

The manual doesnt really cover that part of the engine removal.

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please do not remove the engine to do the work you need to do !. both one-way clutch bearings can be replaced while the motor is in the frame. i'll see if I can locate you some bearings ? :-).

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not sure where you looked ?, but here is the clutch side for the kick starter----> https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/91101-HA0-003?ref=cb2055894ba655e14b03169d73cbef2ccd2651d2 . alittle pricy !..lol, but its still around !!. dont cheap out and buy a after market from ebay !, and you also will need a right side cover gasket , you will tear old one when pulling cover !.

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ok, I looked for the starter side clutch bearing, and yes, you are correct, its discontinued, but !, I did how ever find this ---> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Starter-Clutch-One-Way-Needle-Bearing-for-Honda-TRX250-Fourtrax-250-1986-1987/281844341793?epid=1391195269&hash=item419f3b5c21:g:pqMAAOSwq9NZwXUe . yes, I did say use oem ?, but this is a time you do not have a choice in this matter !. when they are not made and sold buy honda any more ?, then you have no choice but to go after market. this is both the needle bearing and starter clutch bearing, may as well replace both while you have the right side torn down. you will need the right side cover gasket, and starter transfer gear cover gasket as well, DO NOT USE RTV SEALANT FOR A GASKET ON THE STARTER COVER !!!. this is critical here !!!!!!!!. REASON: there is only so much room for the gears to spin here ?, if you do not have the correct space between the cover and engine ?, it wont work very well from the starter !.

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here is one of the starter transfer gears---> https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/28140-HA0-680?ref=f8acc1140665be76507f5fb13b7b311ec573f646 , not sure if you need the middle and other gear ?, but deff buy this one for sure !. DO NOT REPLACE THIS AND NOT THE STARTER ?, OR OTHER WAY AROUND !!!!, THEY MUS BE REPLACED AS A SET !!, in other words, yu'll waster time and money !!!!.

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now that you have it all lined out for you ^^^^^ , here is how you attack this project: start with draining oil, pull left side cover off first, you will need a flywheel puller tool to pop stator off crank, torx bits to remove the old clutch off flywheel. PAY ATTENTION TO SHIFTING SHAFT PARTS WHEN YOU PULL LEFT SIDE COVER !!!. the shaft will come out when you pull cover, TRY NOT TO LET THIS HAPPEN !!, tap it in, keep the shaft always tapped in as you pull cover off. if it does come out ?, not too much trouble , seeing how your pulling right side cover anyway. get all that back together. then start on right side. WARNING !!!!!!!! : THE NUT ON CENTRIFUGAL CLUTCH IS LEFT HAND THREADS !!!!!!!. you will need a air impact , large metric socket 22m or 27mm I believe ?, once nut is off ?, simply pull the clutch out of drum, TIP: notice the words '' THIS SIDE OUT '' stamped on the cage of the bearing ?, MAKE SURE YOU INSTALL THE NEW CLUTCH BACK IN FACING THE VERY SAME WAY !!. now is a good time to pull the oil pick up screen from bottom of motor, clean it, install, all dowel pins in, WARNING !!, the reverse lever will come off with cover ?, unbolt the lever, try to keep it tapped in as you pull cover !!. got to run for now, if you get stumped ?, holler at us !. 

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I think on the 250 you might have to take the motor mounts loose to lift the motor just enough to clear the frame to remove the covers. If I remember right they are very close and some would clear, other won't.  It has been a day or two since I've worked on one though. 

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I already have the plastics off, as well as the tank out to be epoxy sealed and the carb off the engine to be cleaned of rust particles lol.

 

To pull the engine from this point is a few connectors and the mounts realistically.

 

Wouldn't it all be so much easier on a bench as opposed to crouching/kneeling beside this miniature bike? Lol

 

Shadetree, thankyou very much for your time on this one! I'll get some parts and gaskets on order for this old girl.

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To pull the motor just take the mounting bolts loose, pull it forward to slide out of the drive shaft and your good to go if you have the electrical unhooked.

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1 hour ago, JaneFonda said:

Wouldn't it all be so much easier on a bench as opposed to crouching/kneeling beside this miniature bike? Lol


you don’t need to epoxy seal the tank do you? I just did a vinegar descale with a pound of BBs, followed by a high pH rinse.

 

you might prefer to have an ATV jack — makes maintenance easy. I bought this Harley Davidson motorcycle lift for $75. Raises it 19 inches

E18B3057-417B-4581-8BB6-60EF648E01A1.jpeg

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I have done the acid bath before, the rust came back. It just sits too much to have a metal tank really.. lol It's only $30 to do the coating. See how it goes.

 

That Jack is pretty darn sweet. 

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I am not entirely certain this is my culprit 😕

 

As everything seems to be spinning just fine, but it is not engaging the engine.

 

 

15811066435154147850089425900695.jpg

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The centrifugal clutch had the one way clutch (bearing) and under a load it can slip. Once you remove it you'll probably find a stretched spring an marred up surfaces.

 

2 notes: The nut on the centrifugal clutch is left hand threads and do not install the bearing backwards.

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I cannot seem to find a clamping 2 jaw puller that is big enough to do the job. How else can I accomplish this?

Screenshot_20200208-001936_Dropbox.jpg

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I have pulled a lot of clutches off and never had to use a puller yet , hammer alone most of the time is all it takes  , a few times  used a pry bar holding a little pressure on it and a hammer

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7 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

I have pulled a lot of clutches off and never had to use a puller yet , hammer alone most of the time is all it takes  , a few times  used a pry bar holding a little pressure on it and a hammer

Yea, ya gotta be dead center though and protect the threads or it'll mushroom on ya. 

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Oh okay, yah I am a marine tech and that is common practice to remove outboard flywheels. Just wasn't about to try that here without known success. 

 

I'll give it a go.

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39 minutes ago, JaneFonda said:

Oh okay, yah I am a marine tech and that is common practice to remove outboard flywheels. Just wasn't about to try that here without known success. 

 

I'll give it a go.

Watch out and try to pull it off gentle first. 

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1 hour ago, JaneFonda said:

Oh okay, yah I am a marine tech and that is common practice to remove outboard flywheels. Just wasn't about to try that here without known success. 

 

I'll give it a go.

 

You don't have to hit the end of the crankshaft and you shouldn't. The clutch weights are not on a taper, just straight cut splines on the crank. A couple pry points behind the drum and a few taps on the drum with a plastic hammer should pop the entire assembly off.

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