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1995 fourtrax 300 4x4 rebuild

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Those 4 bolts will be torqued at 9 ft lb. Are the clutch plates tight against each other in the basket or can you move them? 

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3 minutes ago, toodeep said:

Those 4 bolts will be torqued at 9 ft lb. Ate the clutch plates tight against each other in the basket or can you move them? 

I have to step back, I have a super to eat, will report back in acouple hours....

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Enjoy your super!  LOL

 

Seriously though, thanks for posting pics as you go.  Will come in handy for some of us in the future.

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2 hours ago, toodeep said:

Those 4 bolts will be torqued at 9 ft lb. Are the clutch plates tight against each other in the basket or can you move them? 

I can move the clutch plates.

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Good thing we caught that now. The inner clutch jammed. Loosen the 4 bolts and work it around a little until it comes free and then tighten the bolts.  The disk will all be tight when its correct. 

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Just now, toodeep said:

Good thing we caught that now. The inner clutch jammed. Loosen the 4 bolts and work it around a little until it comes free and then tighten the bolts.  The disk will all be tight when its correct. 

This is why I'm here, thank you @toodeep for being patient and following along. Will dive back in tomorrow morning.

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Dove back in. Started playing with the bolts. Yesterday I was having trouble tightening them because the center if the clutch was spinning. Today as I was playing with the bolts there was a loud click, pressure released somewhere something grabbed, then the center stopped spinning, I checked all the bolts for torque. I can no longer wiggle the plates, everything is tight.

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6 minutes ago, shadetree said:

i dont see the thrust washer on the clutch arm ??.

822C2000-3D2E-4A97-AEEE-20B02402E790.jpeg

I put the washer on the cam arm where it meets the inner case, which i see now is incorrect? I looked at the diagram again, from what I can tell, it should be sitting on the top/outside/ of the arm? fit it over the white spot, basically.

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18 minutes ago, TRX Student said:

822C2000-3D2E-4A97-AEEE-20B02402E790.jpeg

I put the washer on the cam arm where it meets the inner case, which i see now is incorrect? I looked at the diagram again, from what I can tell, it should be sitting on the top/outside/ of the arm? fit it over the white spot, basically.

the reverse lever calls for a thrust washer as well as the kick starter shaft, AND THE CLUTCH ARM ALL ON THE OUTSIDE END :-).

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A little tip if you plan on keeping it for a long time use some hondabond (RTV) on both sides of the gasket in the yellow area.  Crankcase pressure will actually pull that gasket inwards in that area over time. I think it was around 97? they added another bolt to help with the problem. @Fishfiles should be doing the same with his water machines as a preventative measure. 

20200320_114206.jpg

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Just now, toodeep said:

A little tip if you plan on keeping it for a long time use some hondabond (RTV) on both sides of the gasket in the yellow area.  Crankcase pressure will actually pull that gasket inwards in that area over time. I think it was around 97? they added another bolt to help with the problem. @Fishfiles should be doing the same with his water machines as a preventative measure. 

20200320_114206.jpg

I have hondabond, and was considering going all the way around with a very very light amount, (inner side) is this alright? then for that yellow area, I will put some on both sides...

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All the way around is an overkill but if a very thin amount it won't hurt anything.  That area is the main area to really get the gasket to bond. I've replaced a lot of gaskets over the years because of that issue and an oil leak. 

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Jeeze!

had a lot of trouble getting the cover back on, the clutch arm kept catching the the Kickstarter spring would spring off, then clutch arm again. Fiew! Took forever. Then on to struggling to get the motor into the frame. That took awhile too. But she’s in! Can’t believe all I got done the past few days, thanks guys for helping along the way.

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DEA786F4-29AC-48E9-8377-9B63040BAAF1.jpeg

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Got more time in today. Wiggles the cylinder in with the new rings. Bolted the transfer case on. Bolted the front differential in. Got the covers on for the shafts too. Starting to look like a quad!!!

 

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96C6923D-C947-4809-B34B-8F35904BAA43.jpeg

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Looking good !!! If it were me , I'd pay attention to  how you put it back together , never know you might have to do it again , just saying , LOL 

 

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Just now, Fishfiles said:

Looking good !!! If it were me , I'd pay attention to  how you put it back together , never know you might have to do it again , just saying , LOL 

 

Lol, ya, I really doubt I’m going to get everything right the first time around.

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I got faith , that it is going to fire up on the first push of the button , but I am into fiction movies , LOL 

 

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So,

basically done all I can for now.

Valve lap tool is in the mail, ball joints, front wheel bearing kits, rear axle assembly are all ordered and in the mail.

Now I wait.

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my only concern: is that a oem fuel pump ?, or does it say edelbrock ?, please do not use anything but an oem fuel pump !.

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5 minutes ago, shadetree said:

my only concern: is that a oem fuel pump ?, or does it say edelbrock ?, please do not use anything but an oem fuel pump !.

Fuel pump on a 300?

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