F250 guy 107 Posted January 16, 2020 5 minutes ago, retro said: The drain screw gets an o-ring too. Ok that's my extra bitty o ring lol. I seen in the picture. Dumbo is me ha ha Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted January 16, 2020 No worries... the FSM is your best friend. Follow those instructions (and @Goober's and @toodeep's tips) word for word and you'll make an easy job of it. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fishfiles 20,145 Posted January 16, 2020 Hey F250guy , I was wondering if you are happy having found this site , I went back to the other site to see how many responses you had gotten to your post over there and I couldn't even find your thread this time , the last time I seen it there were 4 post , you twice , gobber and me once ----- hope you stick around after you get this carb taken care of 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goober 1,555 Posted January 16, 2020 2 hours ago, Fishfiles said: Hey F250guy , I was wondering if you are happy having found this site , I went back to the other site to see how many responses you had gotten to your post over there and I couldn't even find your thread this time , the last time I seen it there were 4 post , you twice , gobber and me once ----- hope you stick around after you get this carb taken care of yes @F250guy you likely need a new SE valve—as shown in my pic if your seal is rounded like mine, buy a new one. Should be conically shaped pointing into the SE bore and pliable. Orings not sold separately kinda funny Fish the latest poster back there uses one of my carb pictures Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
F250 guy 107 Posted January 16, 2020 2 hours ago, Fishfiles said: Hey F250guy , I was wondering if you are happy having found this site , I went back to the other site to see how many responses you had gotten to your post over there and I couldn't even find your thread this time , the last time I seen it there were 4 post , you twice , gobber and me once ----- hope you stick around after you get this carb taken care of Yea why wouldn't I, I just been busy and life gets in the way. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fishfiles 20,145 Posted January 16, 2020 goober , that is funny , I think the way it works is you lost all rights to your pic when you posted it -------- you should get some copy right compensation on him using your pic , LOL 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fishfiles 20,145 Posted January 16, 2020 F250guy , so what do you do with your atv ? work ? or play ? ----if play , do you play hard : LOL Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
F250 guy 107 Posted January 16, 2020 (edited) 43 minutes ago, Fishfiles said: F250guy , so what do you do with your atv ? work ? or play ? ----if play , do you play hard : LOL SE valve, starter enrichment right? @Goober suggested I get a new one I'll look mine over but I'll probably get a new one . I have a question that I'm not finding an answer to. The original parts were designed for Non Ethanol and over the years (me included) put regular pump fuel in, my question is should I get a new diaphram and put it in so I know everything is set. Even though the rubber diaphram is sealed I don't think it would go bad from fuel, I just didn't know if the new fuels would damage it over the years. I don't play hard, but when I do I go it sounds like I'm revving it but I'm not. Mostly work and joy rides, sometimes make it to a park to really have fun. Reason why im rebuilding in the first place. When I first got it, when you choked it, it ran like it was way lean revving like a rocket, so I richened the idle mix and tweaked the air, I got it where I'm happy, but I wanna see if I can get it to run choke steady like my grandpa's 95 300. That and the needle valve kees leaking sealing leaking. Edited January 16, 2020 by F250 guy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fishfiles 20,145 Posted January 16, 2020 SE valve got me throw'ed off too the diaphragm controls your mid range to full throttle , if it has a crack or hole in it and leaks , then the bike runs ok till you hit 1/2 throttle then it sounds like it is running out of time , had that happen to me and was giving me a time figuring out why is it running bad and Manny told me about it and it was my problem ----- where is Manny , guys ??? So question still up , what do you do with your atv ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
F250 guy 107 Posted January 16, 2020 (edited) 45 minutes ago, Fishfiles said: SE valve got me throw'ed off too the diaphragm controls your mid range to full throttle , if it has a crack or hole in it and leaks , then the bike runs ok till you hit 1/2 throttle then it sounds like it is running out of time , had that happen to me and was giving me a time figuring out why is it running bad and Manny told me about it and it was my problem ----- where is Manny , guys ??? So question still up , what do you do with your atv ? I do play mostly since I'm not up there all that much and yes we do work when my uncle asks me for help. IDK where he is. I went to Honda parts nation, and looked for just a valve, but it's in a kit that's almost 40.00, and part numbers for the starter enrichment valve only? Here's a photo of my spark plug now, I want to get it to run steady on choke if I can and not have it rev like crazy. Edited January 16, 2020 by F250 guy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
toodeep 1,758 Posted January 16, 2020 If the choke (SE) valve moves freely in and out of the bore, usually your good unless the seal is completely ruined and then they are a pain to get in. The older 250s didn't even have a seal on that and I had less problems with the getting froze up as to when they added the seal. Like I said in the message, if everything looks good don't be afraid to reuse it. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fishfiles 20,145 Posted January 16, 2020 SE valve = learn something new everyday --------- when I don't call it a choke plunger , I call it a fuel enrichment valve ---also seen it called the starter valve you need to be aware , the 1st gen 300s , which you should fall into as far as the starter valve ( SV or SE ) goes , is the short version , after like 94 they were longer , you can't put a long plunger in place of a short plunger unless you change the cable and the headlight assembly cause they work as a set , or you get the plunger kit which uses the longer plunger in place of the shorter plunger by using an adaptor which is supplied in the kit I wonder if SE stands for start enrichment valve ??? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted January 16, 2020 10 minutes ago, Fishfiles said: I wonder if SE stands for start enrichment valve ??? Yep. Starting Enrichment (SE) valve. It uncovers a port where fuel enters (and mixes with air in the passage that runs the length of the carb casting) through the starter jet. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
F250 guy 107 Posted January 16, 2020 I'll try to get up there this weekend and start on it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fishfiles 20,145 Posted January 16, 2020 Something I have learned messing with used atv , you don't always know what you got , no telling what the PO did along the way ----- when you take the carb off , it might not be a bad idea to check the code on the side and make sure the right carb is on the bike to start with , I have a list some where of the code to year ----- the carbs are different in different years , different jets , different SE valves , it may run on a different year carb , but my also give problems or not perform as good as it could , my 92 has had quite a few different year carbs on it , even a 350 carb when I got it and not till I got an actual OEM 92 carb and rebuilt it , that it run it's best 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
F250 guy 107 Posted January 16, 2020 32 minutes ago, Fishfiles said: Something I have learned messing with used atv , you don't always know what you got , no telling what the PO did along the way ----- when you take the carb off , it might not be a bad idea to check the code on the side and make sure the right carb is on the bike to start with , I have a list some where of the code to year ----- the carbs are different in different years , different jets , different SE valves , it may run on a different year carb , but my also give problems or not perform as good as it could , my 92 has had quite a few different year carbs on it , even a 350 carb when I got it and not till I got an actual OEM 92 carb and rebuilt it , that it run it's best PO was a friend of ours in his 80s, that barley rode it, the back tires were wore cause he used it to go to the cemetery up the road from his house. He had a Polaris ranger that had the original dealer gas in it. I bought my wheeler from him. That should put your concerns to rest. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
F250 guy 107 Posted January 21, 2020 (edited) On 1/12/2020 at 11:04 AM, Goober said: Here’s a pic this is a pic of an unrebuilt carb—see how clean the exterior is before disassembly? Before disassembly i spray the body and all screws with deep creep—removing dirt with a plumbers flux brush. Then i wash it down with dawn dishsoap. This gets large particles off the exterior i disassemble with the best cross point i have—a large handled nut driver with a #2 bit. And make sure to hit the jets with deep creep too. Use the best fitting straight bit screw stick you have and gradually apply torque—I’ve had jets break on me. Use a 7 or 8? mm socket on the main jet. see my pic? I use dental brushes, flux brushes, brass brushes and bamboo-handled cotton swabs. I use the broken handles of used swabs to scrape out bits of gasket. be careful with the bowl and carb body—there’s a priming channel built into it—leading to a tiny brass jet in the carb throat If you soak it you might clog it. If i soak my carbs, it is because they are clean and only in clean fluid. Lotta owners don’t care about the priming feature but i do Would running it in an ultrasonic cleaner hurt the priming passage, I wouldn't have think so. Haven't got one yet, but just asking. Edited January 21, 2020 by F250 guy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
F250 guy 107 Posted January 21, 2020 (edited) The rebuild has been postponed cause of weather, I can't get to the wheeler, snowing. Also a tech from Sunoco told me with the Optima fuel, no stabilizer needed, reason I bought the stabil 360 today was after the carb build and possible tank Red Kote, I was gonna NG to use it to treat the fuel system. But the fellow told me the fuel has additives that will cost the whole system, tank to valves, should I use the 360 or get my money back? Advice please. Here is a Sunoco link to support my idea of just red koating the tank while I'm getting the carb super clean, and get my money refunded tomorrow. I didn't buy much just a small 5gal mix bottle. https://www.sunoco.com/quality-fuels Edited January 21, 2020 by F250 guy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fishfiles 20,145 Posted January 21, 2020 F250guy , I always use non-ethanal gas and then add a 2 ounce jigger glass of Sea Foam in every full tank 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
F250 guy 107 Posted January 21, 2020 7 hours ago, Fishfiles said: F250guy , I always use non-ethanal gas and then add a 2 ounce jigger glass of Sea Foam in every full tank Guess the small two ounces of it won't hurt compared to 10% Ethanol. I was asking to avoid getting alcohol in my fuel lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
F250 guy 107 Posted January 21, 2020 2 hours ago, F250 guy said: Guess the small two ounces of it won't hurt compared to 10% Ethanol. I was asking to avoid getting alcohol in my fuel lol Wanted to call Seafoam to make sure. Very little IPA and the rest 94% is oils and cleaners, so I'm safe to run Seafoam. 😁 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shrade 197 Posted January 23, 2020 I run Sea Foam in every thing I own other than my truck. Rancher, chainsaw, leaf blower, outboard. I also avoid any ethanol blended gasoline. Have had zero issues for 10+ years I have been using SF. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
F250 guy 107 Posted January 23, 2020 1 minute ago, shrade said: I run Sea Foam in every thing I own other than my truck. Rancher, chainsaw, leaf blower, outboard. I also avoid any ethanol blended gasoline. Have had zero issues for 10+ years I have been using SF. I'm gonna continue to use SF was just curious for non Ethanol fuel. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Wilson_™ 6,566 Posted January 23, 2020 On January 21, 2020 at 3:33 AM, Fishfiles said: F250guy , I always use non-ethanal gas and then add a 2 ounce jigger glass of Sea Foam in every full tank Im a big believer in sea foam ........ Odd how . There's been no talk of Stabil gas treatment .... I use that in each container of gasoline ... Haven't had a single (2 stroke or 4 stroke) carb issue in more then 11 years.... 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
F250 guy 107 Posted January 23, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said: Im a big believer in sea foam ........ Odd how . There's been no talk of Stabil gas treatment .... I use that in each container of gasoline ... Haven't had a single (2 stroke or 4 stroke) carb issue in more then 11 years.... I'm still going to use it, I'll get to the carb this weekend, the weather finally is breaking. I'll post pics if anybody wants with updates. Probably on a separate thread. Edited January 23, 2020 by F250 guy 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites