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F250 guy

Carb rebuild 93 Honda 300 Fourtrax.

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5 minutes ago, retro said:

The drain screw gets an o-ring too.

Ok that's my extra bitty o ring lol. I seen in the picture. Dumbo is me ha ha

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No worries... the FSM is your best friend. Follow those instructions (and @Goober's and @toodeep's tips) word for word and you'll make an easy job of it.

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Hey F250guy , I was wondering if you are happy having found this site , I went back to the other site to see how many responses you had gotten to your post over there and I couldn't even find your thread  this time , the last time I seen it there were 4 post , you twice , gobber and me once ----- hope you stick around after you get this carb taken care of 

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2 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

Hey F250guy , I was wondering if you are happy having found this site , I went back to the other site to see how many responses you had gotten to your post over there and I couldn't even find your thread  this time , the last time I seen it there were 4 post , you twice , gobber and me once ----- hope you stick around after you get this carb taken care of 


yes @F250guy you likely need a new SE valve—as shown in my pic if your seal is rounded like mine, buy a new one. Should be conically shaped pointing into the SE bore and pliable. Orings not sold separately 

 

kinda funny Fish the latest poster back there uses one of my carb pictures

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2 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

Hey F250guy , I was wondering if you are happy having found this site , I went back to the other site to see how many responses you had gotten to your post over there and I couldn't even find your thread  this time , the last time I seen it there were 4 post , you twice , gobber and me once ----- hope you stick around after you get this carb taken care of 

Yea why wouldn't I, I just been busy and life gets in the way. 

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goober , that is funny , I think the way it works is you lost all rights to your pic when you posted it -------- you should  get some copy right  compensation on him using your pic , LOL 

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F250guy , so what do you do with your atv ? work ? or play ? ----if play , do you play hard : LOL 

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43 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

F250guy , so what do you do with your atv ? work ? or play ? ----if play , do you play hard : LOL 

SE valve, starter enrichment right? @Goober suggested I get a new one I'll look mine over but I'll probably get a new one .  I have a question that I'm not finding an answer to.

 

The original parts were designed for Non Ethanol and over the years (me included) put regular pump fuel in, my question is should I get a new diaphram and put it in so I know everything is set. Even though the rubber diaphram is sealed I don't think it would go bad from fuel, I just didn't know if the new fuels would damage it over the years. 

 

I don't play hard, but when I do I go it sounds like I'm revving it but I'm not. Mostly work and joy rides, sometimes make it to a park to really have fun. 

 

Reason why im rebuilding in the first place. When I first got it, when you choked it, it ran like it was way lean revving like a rocket, so I richened the idle mix and tweaked the air, I got it where I'm happy, but I wanna see if I can get it to run choke steady like my grandpa's 95 300. That and the needle valve kees leaking sealing leaking. 

Edited by F250 guy

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SE valve got me throw'ed off too

 

 the diaphragm controls your mid range to full throttle , if it has a crack or hole in it and leaks , then the bike runs ok till you hit 1/2 throttle then it sounds like it is running out of time , had that happen to me  and was giving me a time figuring out why is it running bad  and Manny told me about it and it was my problem -----

 

where is Manny , guys ??? 

 

So question still up , what do you do with your atv ? 

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45 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

SE valve got me throw'ed off too

 

 the diaphragm controls your mid range to full throttle , if it has a crack or hole in it and leaks , then the bike runs ok till you hit 1/2 throttle then it sounds like it is running out of time , had that happen to me  and was giving me a time figuring out why is it running bad  and Manny told me about it and it was my problem -----

 

where is Manny , guys ??? 

 

So question still up , what do you do with your atv ? 

I do play mostly since I'm not up there all that much and yes we do work when my uncle asks me for help. IDK where he is. 

 

I went to Honda parts nation, and looked for just a valve, but it's in a kit that's almost 40.00, and part numbers for the starter enrichment valve only? 

 

Here's a photo of my spark plug now, I want to get it to run steady on choke if I can and not have it rev like crazy. 

 

 

Screenshot_20200116-102031.png

Screenshot_20200116-100837.png

Edited by F250 guy

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If the choke (SE) valve moves freely in and out of the bore, usually your good unless the seal is completely ruined and then they are a pain to get in. The older 250s didn't even have a seal on that and I had less problems with the getting froze up as to when they added the seal. Like I said in the message, if everything looks good don't be afraid to reuse it.

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SE valve = learn something new everyday ---------  when I don't call it a choke plunger , I call it a fuel enrichment valve ---also seen it called the starter valve 

you need to be aware , the 1st gen 300s  , which you should fall into  as far as the starter valve ( SV or SE ) goes , is the short version , after like 94 they were longer , you can't put a long plunger in place of a short plunger unless you change the cable and the headlight assembly cause they work as a set  , or you get the plunger kit which uses the longer plunger in place of the shorter plunger by using an adaptor which is supplied in the kit 

 

I wonder if SE stands for start enrichment valve ??? 

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10 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

I wonder if SE stands for start enrichment valve ???

 

Yep. Starting Enrichment (SE) valve. It uncovers a port where fuel enters (and mixes with air in the passage that runs the length of the carb casting) through the starter jet.

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Something I have learned messing with used atv , you don't always know what you got , no telling what the PO did along the way ----- when you take  the carb off  , it might not be a bad idea to check the code on the side and make sure the right carb is on the bike to start with , I have a list some where of the code to year -----  the carbs are different in different years , different jets , different SE valves , it may run on a different year carb , but my also give problems or not perform as good as it could  , my 92 has had quite a few different year carbs on it , even a 350 carb when I got it and not till I got an actual  OEM 92 carb and rebuilt it , that  it run it's best  

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32 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

Something I have learned messing with used atv , you don't always know what you got , no telling what the PO did along the way ----- when you take  the carb off  , it might not be a bad idea to check the code on the side and make sure the right carb is on the bike to start with , I have a list some where of the code to year -----  the carbs are different in different years , different jets , different SE valves , it may run on a different year carb , but my also give problems or not perform as good as it could  , my 92 has had quite a few different year carbs on it , even a 350 carb when I got it and not till I got an actual  OEM 92 carb and rebuilt it , that  it run it's best  

PO was a friend of ours in his 80s, that barley rode it, the back tires were wore cause he used it to go to the cemetery up the road from his house. He had a Polaris ranger that had the original dealer gas in it. I bought my wheeler from him. That should put your concerns to rest. 

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On 1/12/2020 at 11:04 AM, Goober said:

Here’s a pic

this is a pic of an unrebuilt carb—see how clean the exterior is before disassembly?

 

Before disassembly i spray the body and all screws with deep creep—removing dirt with a plumbers flux brush. Then i wash it down with dawn dishsoap. This gets large particles off the exterior 

 

i disassemble with the best cross point i have—a large handled nut driver with a #2 bit. And make sure to hit the jets with deep creep too. Use the best fitting straight bit screw stick you have and gradually apply torque—I’ve had jets break on me. Use a 7 or 8? mm socket on the main jet.

 

see my pic? I use dental brushes, flux brushes, brass brushes and bamboo-handled cotton swabs. I use the broken handles of used swabs to scrape out bits of gasket. 
 

be careful with the bowl and carb body—there’s a priming channel built into it—leading to a tiny brass jet in the carb throat If you soak it you might clog it. If i soak my carbs, it is because they are clean and only in clean fluid. Lotta owners don’t care about the priming feature but i do

A5A7D2E7-9BB2-49A7-BC2E-EE97AC8DEDBB.jpeg

Would running it in an ultrasonic cleaner hurt the priming passage, I wouldn't have think so. Haven't got one yet, but just asking.

Edited by F250 guy

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The rebuild has been postponed cause of weather, I can't get to the wheeler, snowing. Also a tech from Sunoco told me with the Optima fuel, no stabilizer needed, reason I bought the stabil 360 today was after the carb build and possible tank Red Kote, I was gonna NG to use it to treat the fuel system. But the fellow told me the fuel has additives that will cost the whole system, tank to valves, should I use the 360 or get my money back? Advice please. 

 

Here is a Sunoco link to support my idea of just red koating the tank while I'm getting the carb super clean, and get my money refunded tomorrow. I didn't buy much just a small 5gal mix bottle. 

 

https://www.sunoco.com/quality-fuels

Edited by F250 guy

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F250guy ,   I always use non-ethanal gas and then add a 2 ounce jigger glass of Sea Foam in every full tank 

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7 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

F250guy ,   I always use non-ethanal gas and then add a 2 ounce jigger glass of Sea Foam in every full tank 

Guess the small two ounces of it won't hurt compared to 10% Ethanol. I was asking to avoid getting alcohol in my fuel lol

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2 hours ago, F250 guy said:

Guess the small two ounces of it won't hurt compared to 10% Ethanol. I was asking to avoid getting alcohol in my fuel lol

Wanted to call Seafoam to make sure. Very little IPA and the rest 94% is oils and cleaners, so I'm safe to run Seafoam. 😁

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I run Sea Foam in every thing I own other than my truck. Rancher, chainsaw, leaf blower, outboard. I also avoid any ethanol blended gasoline. Have had zero issues for 10+ years I have been using SF.

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1 minute ago, shrade said:

I run Sea Foam in every thing I own other than my truck. Rancher, chainsaw, leaf blower, outboard. I also avoid any ethanol blended gasoline. Have had zero issues for 10+ years I have been using SF.

I'm gonna continue to use SF was just curious for non Ethanol fuel. 

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On January 21, 2020 at 3:33 AM, Fishfiles said:

F250guy ,   I always use non-ethanal gas and then add a 2 ounce jigger glass of Sea Foam in every full tank 

 

Im a big believer in sea foam ........ Odd how . There's been no talk of Stabil gas treatment .... I use that in each container of gasoline ... Haven't had a single (2 stroke or 4 stroke) carb issue in more then 11 years....

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2 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said:

 

Im a big believer in sea foam ........ Odd how . There's been no talk of Stabil gas treatment .... I use that in each container of gasoline ... Haven't had a single (2 stroke or 4 stroke) carb issue in more then 11 years....

I'm still going to use it, I'll get to the carb this weekend, the weather finally is breaking. I'll post pics if anybody wants with updates. Probably on a separate thread.

Edited by F250 guy
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