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I had a new 2nd/3rd gen I sold a couple of weeks ago for $800. Buyer was willing to pay $900, but I'd had it listed at $800 so I honored the ad (he offered extra for me to ship it). Sold it pretty quickly. I think the guy that mods those to fit a 1st gen charges a couple of hundred bucks minimum to do it, so this really isn't a bad deal if you really want one.

Cam was my first thought after the carb checked out. 140 is a high number since they have and auto decompression. A common thing is the bearing holder on the rear of the camshaft will go bad and letthe cam move around. That changes valve clearances and usally just makes it a dog when trying to ride it (1/2 throttle is all i has). Worn cam lobes will also do about the same. If you pull the very top cover off you can pull the lifters and see the cam (that will let you know if the lobes are wearing down). If those look good loosen the camchain adjuster and see if you can move the cam with a small screwdriver.

as for breaking down tire beads ?..lol..well..i've been doing this for many yrs. i always use my front tire on my truck. i will drive my truck tire up onto the tire..then carefully mind you !..work the front tire right next to the wheel bead, all i need to do is get a gap ( i noticed you had this gap when you had the board on the bead with your truck tire )..once you get a gap ?, spray some wd-40 ( this is my go-2 lube )..into the gap...or..you can use some dawn liquid soap in the gap. the trick is keep spinning the wheel..each and every time i drive my truck tire up to the wheel bead..all while working the truck tire right next to the wheel bead. i back off..spin wheel..drive back on. this has worked for me many times. the worst time i ever had was breaking down the oem tires on my '89 trx350D way back when i first restored it...took me about 1 1/2 hrs on each rim to get the bead broke down !. mind you..these were the oem tires that were on it from the time it left the factory, and never have been replaced, they were soooo rusted on the rim bead...is why it took me so long to get the bead broke down. if the rim lip is bent ? ( like i see in your last pic ) clamp some vise grips on the bent part, simply pull the bend back out. when re-mounting tires back on the wheel ?, grease both sides of the tire bead, as well as grease the wheel bead from about 2 inches from the lip..inwards, this makes it sooo much easier for the tire bead to expand ?, AND...THE GREASE WILL MAKE IT EASIER FOR THE TIRE TO NOT ONLY SEAT THE BEAD ?..BUT ALSO KEEP IT FROM RUSTING IN THE FUTURE !. 30 plus yrs of doing this kinda work...i've learned a few tricks of the trade to make my work easier.

Let me guess manual transmission ? Lol! Hm..... starting fluid to break down a tire ? Well yeah suppose it would work.... even heard some nut at local co-op couldnt get one to break down so dim bulb knucklehead loaded the tire up with ether... yup! Exploded right off the rim..(bout 50 feet starlight up and the rim left behind a foot print in the parking lot) ....Columbia fire deparment and columbia pd wernt so pleased being paged out for an explosion right behind hospital....

That's pretty cool. Reminds me of the truck in The Road Warrior with that front bumper.

I dont know too much about trucks TBH :O

That’s a B2400, 4x4. It belongs to my father in law, but he never uses it so I keep it at my house. Same for the grasshopper zero turn mower in front of it. He has two so I keep one at my house since my mower died. It’s way overkill, but it’ll last me forever. I used wd40, but maybe starting fluid is easier. I ended up using your method with the tires as well. I would drive up on the board to get the bead separated, then turn my truck wheel and drive over the tire. Stop and turn my wheel back and forth. But I was by myself, so it was get in, drive up, twist and turn, then back down, get out, readjust tire, get back in truck, and repeat. I mean, it only took two days lol.

i see my brother's tractor in the background ?!..lol..i've got the b2100 model, brought it back from the dead all on my own, never worked on them until a couple yrs back, that auto tranny cost a good penny in parts !!. some jb weld, some sanding, long hrs !!..and it runs and drives..love it.

not sure if its been asked ?, where are you located ?, if yer close to arkansas ?, load that puppy up, bring it to me, i'll fix it, you will have to pay for parts if and when needed ?, but i will not charge you labor !.

I believe 2006 was the year carbs ended for those and fuel injection took over.... from what ive been reading the rubber diaphragm... might just be what the problem is... have you checked it for damage (pinched or ripped) @Mac102004 thoughts ?

(How To) load test your battery with a multimeter . In some cases, our Hondas will crank with a bad battery, but the voltage is not enough to operate some of the systems, so it will not start. . In MANY cases, our Hondas will crank AND START, with a bad battery, but the voltage is not enough to operate some of the systems, and then other problems show up. . First step with any troubleshooting is to eliminate possible problems and then move to the next. Even with a new battery, if there are problems, it needs a load test. . Most people do not have a battery load tester, but you can use a multimeter. Hook up your multimeter to the battery. Key off, what is the voltage? Key on, what is the voltage? Turn on EVERYTHING , high beam head light and any other accessory, step on the brake. Now what is the voltage? Now with all that still on, crank it over while watching the voltage. . This test tells us a few things If the voltage never drops, you have a loose wiring problem. If the voltage drops below 10 volts, your battery is weak/bad. If the test shows a weak/bad battery, you may have something drawing power with the key off. Unhook both negative and positive cables. Trickle charge overnight, low amps over a longer charge time is the best way to charge a battery. . And, over night charge, retest after hook up. If it fails this time, you know, bad battery. If it passes, find the power drain. . Have a good day

Success boys and girls. After parking my truck on this tire for another 24 hours, I was able to get the beads busted. These 589’s are no joke, and jeez they’re heavy. Got the second one broken down and spent some time on both rims with a drill and wire wheel. Managed to get my shirt wrapped up in the wire wheel. Sorry, no pictures of that, I was too busy cleaning my shorts out. Anyway, after the wire wheel I hit both beads with some emory cloth to smooth them out. I’m hoping my effort pays off and the beads don’t leak. The front tires seem to be holding air so far so we’ll see. In my opinion Bridgestone is an upper tier tire so I hope these will hold up well. My only real complaint with the mud lites is that I couldn’t get the dang things to hold air. While I had it up I took the axle housing off and greased the bearing in the tube. Now I just gotta get some plasti dip and get the rims all one color. But at least it’s down on all 4 paws. And on a positive note, I’m getting pretty dang handy with a set of tire irons lol.

One down, one to go. The tire came off the rim pretty easily after I finally got the beads busted loose. Got the truck parked on the other one now, gonna give it a bit and go fight it some more. This one will need some attention from a wire wheel. I’m sure the other one will too, these tires have been mounted a long time.