Melatv

Okay -- Go to the PCM and unplug the 5 pin black connector Key on an check the R/W wire to one of the Green wires you should read 12 VDC

Key off -- Also while you are there check PCM for any bent pins -- also check the both PCM connectors (Bl & Gr) to see if all the female pins are even with the front of the connector have may not all be push in from the back.

We have to find why the 12 Volts is not getting to the shift solenoid -- shove the meter test lead in alongside the Bl/R wire on the Ign. coil -- other test lead on neg. of battery -- turn

key on and let the fuel pump what is the voltage.

NO don't use the power probe -- is the oil level ok -- check it go to section 4 page 4-11

Unplug the shift solenoid and connect 12 VDC to the solenoid -- did it shift?

Hi: Where you did the repair at the Green connector for the Up/Dn switch -- with just the Key on (kill switch is in center) test for 5 VDC  on the W/Bu as you push the Up button --- if so or not -- just touch the W/R & W/Bu together to see if it will shift.

HI: This morning I ran a test on a TRX420 FPA  --- connected my special tester to the Shift solenoid -- with the solenoid connected it was reading 12 VDC when the Up button was pushed -- with the solenoid disconnected and pushing the Up button it was reading 4 VDC  and the ATV display started flashing -- so the solenoid has to be connected to read 12 VDC --- the PCM has to see a closed loop or it will fault.

( ATV wasn't running when I did the test)

G/O should read above ground so that is okay.    I will see what else I can find that is keeping the 12 VDC from getting the shift solenoid 

Out of here for the night

Have you checked the Y/Bl for continuity from the shift solenoid to the PCM and also the green wire to neg of battery?

Also on the Gray connector on the PCM check continuity on 3 green wires and G/O wire to ground

Also check and clean the green ground wires --see Section 1 --- page 1-43

Sorry for the mix up with the connector -- have you check for 12 VDC at the Y/Bl wire on the brown shift connector -- if you did and don't get 12 VDC -- go back to the Green connector that you fixed up and check to see if you have 5 VDC on the W/R wire to neg. of battery

Okay -- You will have to go to connector 14P Gray to check it -- also check continuity of the wire back to PCM if switches are okay -- see picture.

I am out of here for the night

You may already done this -- but if not key off check the continuity of the Up/Dn switch on the Black connector of PCM  -- W/R is common -- W/Bu is up & W/Y is down

Also with the Key on check for 12 VDC on the Bu/O wire on the Black connector of the PCM when the drive switch is in AT

That beep you hear is the Idle Air control valve

Hi: When you are checking for 12 VDC on the Y/Bl wire of the solenoid -- put the black meter lead on the neg. of the battery

Hi: You should have 1`2 VDC on the Y/Bl & G wire of the solenoid when you push the up button 

Check this -- key off unplug the Black & Gray connectors -- Key on check for 12 VDC on the Bl/R wire on the Gray connector -- check for 12 VDC on the Bl/W wire on the black connector.

Hi: Big Welcome Here

18 hours ago, Louis said:

Yeah, there's a lot more to this than that video shows. I had to take the swing arm loose in the rear to remove the axle. I can't get the starter off or the front shaft and without removing them I won't have room to take the cover off. Wish I had full coverage I'd burn this piece of junk lol

It's not a easy working on ATV or others like SxS if it;s first time thing for you --- you may go through replacing the CKP -- finding it was not the problem -- using a Peak Voltage Adapter would tell you if the CKP is good -- also the PVA is needed to check the voltage at the ign. coil for a 100 volts 

7 hours ago, TBRider said:

Next trip to Moncton, they are now on the list, wanted to go there anyways

Hi: I should post this for all sizes

https://www.princessauto.com/en/search?Dy=1&Nty=1&Ntt=Transparent+Heat-Shrink+Butt+Connectors

1 hour ago, TBRider said:

I saw those, would like to get some, and yea I'm a soldier shrink tube guy also.

Hi: You can get them at Princess Auto

https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/10-pc-22-18-gauge-transparent-heat-shrink-butt-connectors/A-p8555658e

Hi: Big Welcome Here

I always use AMSOIL -- 0W-40 -- Formula 4-Stroke Power Sports Synthetic Motor Oil -- high in price 

Before you go doing all that -- I would get a Peak Voltage Adapter for the meter

Hi Louis: Here a video that may help you 

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=install+stator+0n+honda+trx420+video&view=detail&mid=19D46BC37BB9B89DBD2019D46BC37BB9B89DBD20&FORM=VIRE

When you take the bolts out -- use piece a cardboard and draw a out line of the bolt placement and punch holes in cardboard where the bolt go and set bolts in them.

Okay -- will keep in touch

Hi: Big Welcome Here

Hi: If it doesn't blow the fuse when the rectifier is not connected -- and blow the fuse when the rectifier is connected  you have a bad rectifier.

Hi: Big Welcome Here