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Posts posted by Melatv
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Hi: Big Welcome Here
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Hi: Big Welcome Here
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It wouldn't hurt to test it with another meter and check the harness
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The only thing is to trace that harness all the back to see if there is any bad spots.
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1 minute ago, retro said:Yes. 🙂
I admire your tenacity and stick-to-itiveness Mel. If you solve this problem we may be compelled to erect a statue in your honor. Hahah...
If anyone wants to jump in here and help solve this problem --- lets get together
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2 minutes ago, Louis said:Do I need to do the ohm test different or again on the 0.228 reading I got, to verify?
If that reading is .228 ohms -- that is a problem.
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13 minutes ago, retro said:Ahhh... OK, but Louis confirmed it measured .228 Ohms above. He has an autoranging meter, so there should not be a dot preceding those digits.
It would be great if one could get hands on when trouble shooting
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Hi: Unplug the TP & Map sensor (connector 5P) Key on for this test --meter on DCV --black test lead neg. of battery -- red test lead on the Br/W wire on the harness side should read 5 VDC
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3 minutes ago, retro said:It looks to me like the CKP sensor coil is reading nearly open at 0.228 Ohms. Should be measuring around 140 Ohms.
Retro -- he posted again saying it was Kilo ohms -- 228 ohms
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1 hour ago, Louis said:Yes, the 0.228 is kilo ohms. On the 3 yellow wires, all of them ohm 0.00. Then to ground, all 3 yellow wires search around in mV. The ckp wire to ground searches around 30mV.
Okay that should good
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That reading .228 is that Ohms or Kilo_ohms --- it should be around 140 Ohms
That could be some dielectric grease
Key off --Same connector check the 3 yellow wire from yellow to yellow --should read around 1 ohm from yellow to yellow
Key off -- Them check the 3 yellow wire to ground -- black test lead on neg of battery -- should read infinity
Key off -- also check the CKP wire to ground.
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You can check the CKP unplug the connector (Key off) --- Put you meter on the Ohms scale and check the G/W & Bu/Y -- put meter just across the 2 wires
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13 hours ago, winchester said:I finally got around to putting the motor put back in and got it running today. I can shift through all gears now using the emergency shifter tool, the gear indicator just displays a solid "-" that doesn't flash at all. The shift buttons don't seem to do anything. Anyone have any ideas? I think I will pull the shift motor out tonight and see if I can put power to it and get it to spin.
Hi: Go to service manual section 6 page 6-56 check the grounds
Also go section 14 pages 43 & 44 do those checks
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Hi: Big Welcome Here
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Hi: Big Welcome Here
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With the key do you have 12 VDC on the Bl/R wire on the Ign> coil?
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I wish you were near me ( where are you) -- so I could get my hands into the problem -- I will see what I can come up with to test.
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Remove spark plug to see if you are getting spark --ground plug to engine --when you try starting
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I would say the solenoid is bad -- If you want to see if the bike will start -- unplug the the 2 small wires going to the solenoid leave the big wire off also ---
Have all the connectors back in place fuel pump connected -- turn key on you don't have to push the start button --- put on a pair of glasses for eye safety -- take the big wire that you removed and just touch it on the stud of the solenoid with the other big wire on it (you will see sparks) bike should start.
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Hi: Can you do this remove the big wire off solenoid going to the starter motor --- when you have it off put your meter back on the Bl/R wire on the black connector on the PCM check the voltage (key on and try starting)
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Okay -- now connect the start solenoid up and do the test again -- what volts do you read?
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You have the key on fuse in -- kill switch in center -- pushing the start button -- be back here later
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The notch should be right on the threads right side
Low voltage to fuel pump
in Electronics
Posted
Hi Louis: 231 ohms it should work -- have you also check it at the G/W & Bu/Y wire on the Gray connector at the PCM ?