Melatv

Go to where the 30 amp fuse main 1 with your meter check for 12 vdc -- black meter lead on neg. of battery -- red meter lead -- find which spot in the 30 amp main 1 holder has12 vdc on it -- the other spot should be dead. IF it is dead put your meter on the ohms scale and check from the dead stop (NOT THE LIVE SPOT) to the R/W wire on the 6 pin connector -- you should have continuity

Hi: Remove the test light from the fuse holder --- go to the 5 pin connector -- meter on ohms scale -- check for continuity from the R/W wire to neg. of battery. Key Off

I am out of here for the night.

Good -- put your test light back in where the 30 amp main 1 goes. -- put key on does the test light up? -- if not turn key off and replace the 5 pin connector into the PCM then turn key on does test light come on? -- if so pull out the fan fuse -- does the test light stay on?

Okay -- those tests are good only one green should have a reading. Now check the PCM 5 pin male side for bent pins and corrosion.

Okay -- key off -- now put your meter on the low ohms scale again -- place one meter lead on the neg. of the battery and with the other meter lead test each of those 5 wires in the 5 pin connector.

Leave battery connected -- just leave Key switch off

Check out the 5 pin connector cable as said above

So if the test light when out -- now the problem is either PCM or the cable going to the shift motor --- lets check the cable --- the shift motor is unplugged -- put your meter on the lowest Ohms scale -- test the 5 pin connector -- place one meter lead on the red wire of the 5 pin connector and then with the other meter lead check the other 4 wire in the 5 pin connector -- should have no readings.

Hi: You have the test light plugged in where the main 1 fuse goes? you unplugged the 5 pin connect and the test light went out?

Hi: Do you have one of those 12 volt light testers? If so use it instead of the fuse, you may need jumper wire to connect the test light in where the fuse goes. --- how it will work the test light will stay on until you clear the fault that was blowing the fuse -- it will go off when you clear the fault. unplug 5 pin connector on the PCM to start your testing.

Hi: The Main fuse 1 only feeds power to the fan motor and the shift motor.

Okay-- Unplug the 5 pin connector on the PCM -- located behind the battery -- try again -- leave the two 33 pin connectors in place

Hi: This is a 2009 TRX420 FPA? blowing the main fuse 1 ?? -- Looking at the electrical print it show the Main 2 fuse feeding the lights.

Hi: Unplug the shift motor and try again.

Hi: Remove the Fan fuse and try the 30 amp fuse again Big welcome Here

Yes also as said above -- R/W & G

Hi: Big Welcome Here

Hi: If you unplug the Bank sensor -- just put a jumper from the positive of the Battery to the Bl/R wire on the Ign. coil. The fuel filter could be the problem Ign. timing Throttle position sensor Did you have the TP sensor unplugged if so you may have to reset it.

Yes try unhooking it.

Hi: Quote "I got the water drained and replaced the SDST relay for the pod light, and after that it shifted ok regardless of the headlight switch being on/off. " So that being said the headlights are not the problem. Do the headlights work normally? What year is this bike?

Is the vent clear on the case? -- not plugged --- motoseal not going to hurt -- is oil leaking out on the edge of the seal or center of the seal?

Go with a new seal -- as said above -- take care setting it in place -- using something that will keep in straight when tapping it in place.

A Pulp Hook is handy to have Search Results for pulp hook - Home Hardware