shadetree

I dont know what the diff is between the A and AC, when I look parts up for models, I always go by the first letter, in this case, 1999 trx300fw A.

then how do you know the cost of the c.d.i. was 100 bucks ?..lol.

if you only paid 100 bucks for the c.d.i. ?, then you did NOT buy/get a oem c.d.i. , if you look at the c.d.i.'s on that link I post ^^^ ?, you will notice they are around 150 from partzilla.

what is the part number on the package that the c.d.i. came in ?. red label , white back ground, some numbers and letters on it.

where did you buy this c.d.i. from ?. ebay ?, amazon ?.

does the part number on this new c.d.i. match any of these here -->https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/atv/1999/trx300fw-a-fourtrax-300-4x4/wire-harness ?.

ok, sounds like your kill switch is stopping power from getting back to spark plug coil ?, or the spark plug coil is a after market ?.

is spark plug coil oem from honda ?.

most important question, when you turn the key on, is oil light coming on, then going off ?, and is there a neutral light showing on dash ?.

yeah, if reg/reg is bad ?, it wont convert the AC voltage back to DC voltage. have you tested the stator to see if it's good ?, I know you say you just replaced it ?, but still !. is stator from honda ?, or after market ?.

close, had to move your thread. you say you bought new c.d.i. from dealer ?, what dealer would this be ?. amazon or ebay ?, what was the price my I ask ?. if it was under 50 bucks ?, then it sure wasn't a dealer or oem c.d.i. !..lol. was stator matched to flywheel ?, was reg/rec tested ?. did you try moving kill switch back and forth to clean contacts inside switch ?.

welcome outdooreagle !. please make a post in the repair section for make/model.

oppsss..long night, tired..oh well..lol.

haha..get off my lawn you dang whipper snapper !!!..lol.

welcome to our forums. if you think 40 is old ?, dang..i'd hate to think of what 55 is !!!..lol.

ummmm..my '88 trx300fw is first gen, but I sure wont rip it apart to check it !..lol. I can tell you this, I cant budge the drive shaft out of either end without unbolting the front diff, and pulling it as far forward as I can, and I still had a hard time getting the drive shaft in and out !.

two options, attach the 424 to the left forward upright tube ?, or, put a skid plate on the bottom, I would do both !..lol. skid plates are on there for a reason, and its not to collect mud !..lol.

I understand perfectly what you said, and what I was saying, regardless is the 424 is strapped down or not ? ( which only keep it from spinning by the way ), that set up SHOULD NOT move forward or backward like your showing in the pic with the pry rod bar. you cant move the oem drive shaft period !, unless you unbolt the front diff to remove it ?, sooooooo..again...that 424 is NOT suppose to move forward or backward at all !.

then I had to run power to it from my house breaker box, about 80-90 feet of digging, under my deck for the most part, then got to my shop, installed a 150 amp main breaker ( more than enough to run what I planned for ), ran all my outlets, lights. complete build myself, she's not much ?, but I love it !.

shoot, I used to do all my work on my carport, then when I built my back deck, I started doing it there, problem with that was.it always got too wet out in the open, sooooo..I told myself..i'm gonna build me a 12x16 shop, make it like a barn style, have plenty of space in the loft where I could stand all the way up, and walk all around up there, sooooooo..I did it !. made ramps to roll/drive in and out, a ramp for the side door for smaller stuff, then I decided it was best to put a lean-too roof over the side door, standing in the rain while unlocking the door sucked !..lol.

something is not right ?, or else you could have had the same thing happen to the oem drive shaft ?, AND I'VE NEVER HEARD OR SEEN A OEM DRIVE SHAFT POPPING OUT FROM GOING OVER STUFF ??!!..lol.

whatever you decide to do ?, DO NOT MOUNT THE WINCH TO ANYWHERE ON JUST THE FRONT BUMPER OR RACK !!!!!!!, these area's can not handle the load when pulling ?, its always best to mount a winch plate to the frame !.

its a simple design. the plate just needs to be wide enough to go across the down tubes, then angle out over the front bumper tubes. if it were me, i'd buy a piece of 3/16 plate metal big enough to be wide enough, and long enough to mount the winch. buy the winch first !!!, then get under the front of your atv, measure how wide, and how long the metal should be ( rough demission's ) when bent to allow for the fairlead to mount. then out a ways, make another bend straight up to allow a place to mount the fairlead. when I bought my warn pro vantage 2500-s for my '89 trx350D foreman 4x4, no one has ever made a mounting plate for this atv model ?, sooooo..I just had a piece of 3/16 steel plate cut wide and long enough to weld it to the frame tubes, pre-drilled the winch mounting holes, walla..problem solved !.

welcome to our forums.

I seen it..i started to send you a reef for your tombstone !..lol.