shadetree

its stock as far as i can tell ?, i'll take a pic, and post it.

i guess you missed the part where i said '' and i did not even have the brake line attached to the upper a-arm even '' ?..lol.

i tried it with the caliber on the front..brake line still would not reach the caliber. and you HAD to add the custom line..because you have a lift kit..lol.

haha..i had to do this very same thing the other day. i went to install the left rear bolt, done, installing right side..it seemed like something was not right ?, oh well..finished tightening the bolt..walk over to my bench...low and behold..there laid the dang right side inner tapered bearing ?!..oh crap..it musta fell out when i was hammering in the left side..and did not notice it fell out ?..crap !. i'm thinking great..now i gotta remove the left side bolt too to drop the swing arm ?..nope !..i just pull the right side out..let the swing arm drop down at an angle..far enough to stab the bearing back into the swing arm !..lol. it sucks getting old i tell ya !.

update: well..turns out..my bud did not have a 500 disk brake kit for a 4wd ?..he had one for a 2wd 500 ?, but that wont work on a 4wd model. soooo..i had to bite the bullet, and order the high lifter kit ( yes..it was not cheap ! )..but i know for a fact its a straight bolt on, no issues what so ever ?..UNLESS !!!..they changed their design over the past couple yrs ?..if not ?..then i'm home free for front disk brakes.

@AKATV , he will be along to help you !. please post a pic or two of the display lit up if you can get it to light up ?, he will need to see what it looks like ?. thanks !.

is it stuck in the bearing ?, or will it not unscrew ?, i use a 4 ft cheater pipe on a 17mm allen wrench to break them loose. if a cheater pipe wont budge it ?, take a bottle of map gas too it, heat the crap outta it...then use the cheater pipe on it..i bet it'll break loose then !.

the brake lines run in the back of the shocks anyway on this foreman, as that is where the calibers should mount. with the bleeder screws on the top side ( as per the info online ), the banjo line end would not reach the caliber without being very tight ?, and blocking the bleeder screw on the caliber ?, then i had the issue with the line rubbing the end of the outer tie rod on top of the knuckle. all of this was tried without even attaching the upper line to the top a-arm ?!..there was no way to bolt it all up without the line not rubbing ?, or room to get to the bleeder screw ?, so i'm sending it back.

i'm off to my bud's place to see about getting my hands on a disk brake parts to install on this project, jeep say's it is a direct bolt on , other than the holder brackets for the brake lines ?, it should bolt right on. gotta swap out the knuckles, but if it fits ?, at least it will be honda parts, and i'll save a lot of money from not having to buy a high lifter brake kit ( which i know for a fact fits on the trx450fm foremans ) that i do not want to do..lol.

how did you get the brake lines on the foreman to reach the brake caliber, with out rubbing any where ?, and stretching the crap out of it ?, i ask this, cuz when i tried to install this super atv brake kit to this '02 trx450fm, i ran into this very problem !. now i gotta send it back. gonna head out to my buds place and have a look at a trx500 rubi es he has, if it has front disk brakes ?, i'm gonna take them off, bring them home, and install them on this '02 trx450fm. was told by jeep that i will have to swap out the whole knuckle at the ball joint ?, but ..hey..whats another day of work...right ?..lol.

fair warning: those wheel studs can and will unscrew inwards when you go to screw the lug nuts on ?!. there is a vidoe of this i watched earlier about this happening. have a watch --> (2) Changing the disc brake conversion issue on a Honda Foreman. - YouTube .

nope..he does not have anything that large ?..or that new ?..lol. edit: just got off the phone with catfish...HE DOES HAVE A TRX500 ES RUBI !

i won't argue about it, it deff has to go back, the brake lines will not reach the calibers. i do not know how you got it to work on your 450 without some kinda mod ?, but it will not fit on this 450. yes..the spacers DO make a diff on how the disk turns..but again..i won't argue about that either. all i know is this kit will not work on this 450. i do know high lifter kits work, as i have installed a ton of them on past 450's.. direct bolt on, no mods, no lines rubbing..straight to installing, bleeding the brakes. i'll call super atv first thing in the morning to get info to ship this back, i can't use it. i gave it shot..and it did not work..oh well.

update: ok...got the super atv front disk brake conversion in today, got it mounted on the front axles/knuckles. i wanna point out a flaw in the design of this kit: when i pulled the parts out of the bags, and got to the long bolts that will turn out to be the wheel studs, i noticed right off the bat one problem: the spacers that go in between the disk and hub , the inside diameter of these spacers is larger than the long bolt studs ?!. i knew this was going to be a problem when you go to tighten it all up, it will let the disk not center, and this means it will not turn true ?. got it all together, mounted them, and sure enough, watching the outside edge of the disk as it rotates past the brake pads and caliber , i can see that the outside edge is not turning true to the pads. its not a life or death problem ?, but it is a problem...in this case, a design flaw. it is made in china ?..soo..take it for what its worth. still cheaper than high lifter. p.s. super atv shipped this kit out VERY FAST TO MY DOOR !!. i'll give them 4 stars, i took a star off for the design flaw ?!..rofl. i'll get a better understanding how good this kit is once i get everything hooked back up and working.

does the c.d.i./ecu have a speed limiter made into them ?, if they do ?, maybe the speed sensor is bugging out ?, or the c.d.i./ecu is hitting the speed limiter built into it ?. just spit ball'n here !.

i still have some craftsman hand tools that was handed down from my grandfather, too my dad, then i took them under my wing when my dad passed away...and they were made right back then !!.

answer: BECAUSE ALL THE SMART GUY'S THAT MADE THEM WHAT THEY WERE ??...ARE ALL NOW HERE !!..ROFL.

update: well..i just placed the last order for the remaining parts for this ole girl, ordered the lower head light bulbs, all the front fender splash guards , oem snorkel , front bumper plastic inserts, and last but not least, the muffler gasket. only thing that remains now is the battery, i'll pick that up at my local honda dealership.

my vote went to the guy that never answers his phone ?..wilson !..lol.

unless you get a '' gizmo '' from retro. and i'm not even sure he still makes them today ?, you wont be able to run the diff's on a trx300fw., least not without doing some big time mod's.

oh..and you must have a good battery hooked up in the atv !.

if you can run the atv, put a 12 volt dc multimeter on the battery, rev the engine while watching the meter, it should climb to around 13-14 dc volts ?, if it does not ?, then either the reg/rec is bad ?, or the stator is bad ?.

it kinda sucks for us old timer craftsman tool guys today, the craftsman tools we have had for over 20-30 yrs ?, if they break, you can't go to sears and have them replaced !, and even if sears was still around ?, you would walk in, they'd hand you a china version !!. i've got a craftsman mechanic set that i bought over 20 yrs ago, clearly has '' MADE IN USA '' plastered right on the case, still a complete set too !.

i purchased the super av disk kit, it shows to be out for delivery today ?, i'll see for myself once it gets here, and how well it's made ?, and how good it compares to high lifter ?. p.s. i did pay full price for it, seeing how this eric member never showed up here ?!.

update: got the rear end all nice and clean, painted, installed. still got a ton of stuff to do..but i see the finish line...lol.