jeepwm69

So looked at the parts cross-reference. 05-11 Foreman wheel bearings are 30x54x24 14-up Foreman bearings 27x55x32 If I read bearings correctly, that means that the inner race on the bearing is smaller on the newer models, so the 05-11 Axles would be too big to fit through the bearing. The newer model bearings are also 1mm larger in outside diameter, and much thicker. That sound right? First number is inner race, second is outer race, and last number is thickness? I still think these knuckles would go on at the ball joints, but the CVs would have to be changed as well, and I'm not sure if the newer Foreman CV's would be the right length, OR if the newer style CV's would fit in the 05-11 Front diff. More than likely I'll just put new ball joints and bearings in them and sell them, and get some 05-11 knuckles. I will say that thicker bearing would probably last longer. That would be nice.

That $60 US or $60CAD? These taxes are getting out of hand. I've sent some stuff to Sam over the UK and if I sent it as a gift there weren't taxes charged....until suddenly they were. Anything over 39 British pounds now gets taxed, even if it's a gift. What I sent Sam I just arbitrarily put $50 as the value on it, not thinking it would even matter since it was clearly marked as a gift. That put it under a dollar over that 39 pound mark (at the exchange rate the day I checked) and they were going to nail him with a big tax.

Looks like $185 for that one @toodeep. Since you do it for a living makes sense to have one that size. How long have you had it? I don't mind paying up for good tools, as long as they'll last. https://www.amazon.com/VEVOR-Ultrasonic-Professional-Dentures-Instrument/dp/B07ZNT6QXQ?th=1

Berrymans chemtool is good stuff. I lucked out and found two gallon cans of it on the clearance aisle at Walmart for $5 each a couple of years ago. Loaned one of them to @basfnb. Need to get that back from him if he's through with it (he'll probably show up and whine that I won't work on his stuff anymore LOL) For a long time I used Honda East Toledo. They are cheaper than Partzilla, but do not offer free shipping on larger orders like Partzilla, so depending on what you're ordering, get a total with shipping from both places and see who's cheaper. Neither of them are fast. When I used to order all the time from Honda East I dealt with a guy named Paulie who would ship smaller stuff free if I did a decent sized order. I'd email him my orders rather than use the website. He was a good guy, took great care of me. If something was going to be pricey to ship, he'd tell me, if it wasn't, he'd ship it free. I'm sure Partzilla is the same way, but they didn't stock a ton of parts, so when I'd order from him, then he'd order from Honda, so took time for the part to get from Honda to the dealership, and then from the dealership to me. Paulie left Honda East so haven't ordered much from them since. I have so much crap around now that I have most of what I'll need, and for one or two item orders it's cheaper and easier to just get it on ebay.

Worked in the shop some more this morning. With all of the piling up I've done for the last 3-4 years, apparently I had gotten confused about what I had and what I didn't Found a plastic basket full of 07-13 420 knuckles. For a while you could get them from PSN for $30 or so. Now a used one runs $85,and new ones are $165ish. This is a good thing, because that's the route I've decided to go on these 300's I've picked up, and looks like I can stop searching for, and paying $$$ for knuckles. I SHOULD have enough based on my count this morning. The bad news is, I thought I had a bunch of 05-11 Foreman knuckles, and turns out I only have one extra (have three, but I have an 07 I need to put back together to flip). I used some on my wife's uncle's 450, and sold a set or two along the way. Need to keep an eye out for some cheap ones to keep spares on hand. When I need to do bearings I like to just have a set of knuckles ready to go with new bearings and ball joints already in them. Speeds up the process when you can just swap them out. I also found a Random set of what I think are 14-up Rancher or Foreman knuckles. I think I bought these from a local kid who said they were 420 knuckles, and I didn't realize they were the new ones. Big ball joint up top and bottom, and the Foreman bearing. @toodeepany idea of there would be any problem running these on an 05-07? The ball joints are the same size so they'll fit, just seem to recall that the way the axle and hub went together was different on the newer machines. Anyhow, making progress out there. Have a 350D diff soaking in my parts cleaner and I can tell it is going to be something I use all the time. Ordered some bolt bins yesterday so I can organize my fasteners in one of the toolbox drawers. Have to have the kids at church at 4:30 in the morning. They're going to East TN to "Strength to Stand" and leaving early, so will drop them off, come back home and feed the baby, and hopefully she'll sleep for awhile and I'll be able to work some more tomorrow morning.

We were sitting around one night a few years back, and two of my friends' dads were with us. They'd grown up together back in the late 60's during the muscle car golden days. One of them had a faster car than the other, so the slower guy convinced his dad to regear the rear end to 4.11's, telling the dad that he was doing it so that it would get better gas mileage. The dad fell for it and paid to have the car regeared. LOL

My "retro gizmo" was set at about 9V and worked fine, so I left it there (he made it adjustable). The 400AT's weren't all that great of a bike, so probably more parted out than there are running. The gear ratio in the 350/400 Ranchers is different so the only swap for the 400AT front diff is the 350 Rancher (or another 400AT). I'd wager most 450's are still on the trails, so there are more people looking for parts for them, thus higher prices.

I'm curious too. I've been thinking about picking one up. I'd really like to have one big enough to put a quadrajet or Motorcraft 2100 in though.

Fish has had his share of issues with them. I don't ride as much as he doest, but when I do ride it's in mud and water. I duck hunt on my wheelers, usually just parking in the water and sitting there for hours, and I have yet to have or even see an issue with one of the electric front diffs. I'm usually a KISS guy, but these electromagnet actuated front diffs have held up great for me...enough so that I swapped one into my kid's 350 Rancher.

Well you cut the speed sensor wires off with the swap, so they aren't used anymore. You do have two wires running to a switch, and the thing runs on an electromagnet. You do make a valid point on the "no shifting if your rear wheels are spinning at a different speed than the front wheels". I haven't ever seen an actuator go bad. I'm sure they do, but for me they've been pretty bulletproof. I do have 424's for my 300's, and they work, but you will have trouble from them too if you use them in mud and water. They require servicing and you still have to rebulid them eventually. You can pick up a used factory 2wd/4wd front diff much cheaper than a 424, and they're much easier to use. Both will eventually require maint, especially if you use them in lots of mud and water. So either way will work. Either is certainly worth doing. You just have to decide what setup you want. Might look at swapping disc brakes off of those same bikes I mentioned above while you're at it. They swap on at the ball joints, plug and play.

How handy are you? If I were doing it, I'd swap in a diff from a newer Rubicon (05-14) and straight wire it like what is described here. I know the diff will bolt in place. The only "if" is the front driveshaft. You might get by with simply swapping in an 05-14 front driveshaft and have it bolt in and go (after wiring in the 2wd/4wd switch) or you might have to modify the driveshaft length to fit, but I much prefer this to the cable actuated 424. Front diff from an 05-14 Rubicon, 05-11 Foreman, and 03-current Rincon diffs should all be able to be swapped in.

I'm using this stuff. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/crown-psc-1000-parts-cleaner-5-gal I nosed around for quite a while trying to figure out what to use. This stuff supposedly works well and has a high flash point. Doesn't smell horrible either (wife HATED starter fluid, because I couldn't get the smell off of me when I used it). Took two 5 gal cans to fill to the top of the pump. Wife got me the two cans for my birthday back in October. Just now got around to actually pouring them in the washer LOL.

Yikes! That's a rusty Rubicon. You parting it out, or swapping frames?

Sorry Fish, but thought this was funny.

This morning the kid woke up and started fussing at 5:30. Wife kicked me and said "Do you want me to get up with her?". I replied "See if she goes back to sleep" and that didn't fly "She's been fussing for awhile" so I got up, warmed up a bottle, and by then, of course, kid was back asleep. I went ahead and fed her, put her back in her crib, and headed out to the shop. Bought this Harbor Freight parts washer probably 12-15 months ago, and FINALLY put it together. I did some common upgrades to it; bolted it to a furniture dolly (also from HF), moved the shelf to the bottom of the legs so I could put the two solvent cans below, added a ball valve and hose to the drain so that I can easily drain the fluid back into a bucket or can, and added an oil filter (uses a cheap ST8 screw-on oil filter) so that I the fluid being pumped will be filtered, hopefully prolonging the life of the solvent. I'll probably take those sheet metal screws out and use small bolts and nuts once I get my bench cleaned off and hopefully get some organization with all my fasteners. The parts washer was $100 or so. The upgrades and solvent cost as much as the parts washer, but it should save me a lot of time and money over time. I've used aerosol starter fluid to clean engine cases etc up until now, and at $2.75/ can, with the average bottom end needing 10 cans, this is a much better setup. I need a biggish drill bit to drill two holes for my 7/16" lines, which will run from pump to filter, and then from filter to the pex fitting I have the spout attached to. Then just attach the lines and it'll be ready to use. I also worked a bit more on my workbench this morning. I'm slowly putting tools in my toolboxes, and need to get some bolt bins as I have fasteners everywhere, and I need to sort them by size so that I don't have to dig for 5 minutes every time I need a bolt or nut.

The creamsicle build covers it best. The start in gear mod is a must for me, and if you’re doing that might as well add brake lights too. A 400AT cam will supposedly be a mild cam upgrade as well. I have one I bought to put in the 350 motor that’s my next project (as soon as I finish cleaning my shop). We like lots of pics!

I hear getting old isn't for the faint of heart The 700 has the same engine as the Rincon. I attempted to rebuild one of those for a buddy. Got it torn down, cleaned it out (he sank it 3-4 times) and put back together with a new top end. Ran fine for awhile, then stopped pulling and he had to take it to the actual Honda shop as I told him I didn't want to see it again. They put a new oil pump in it and it's going strong again. Not a fan of working on them, but they do hold up to a LOT of abuse. He sank that one several times, and he stays on the rev limiter when he rides it, so I'm sold on them for durability. Not crazy about the 3 speed. The Pioneer 1000's seem to have gremlins of their own so I might bite on a 700 if the right one comes along. These days I'm not getting much wrench time so not looking too hard for anything.

Toodeep, you dragging SXS people on here? WTH! Kidding! The wife has made noises about a SXS, since she just likes to ride and drink. I've been waiting for some of them to get old enough to get trashed and abandoned so I can pick one up cheap and build it. Welcome to the forum. What Pioneer do you have? The 1000's haven't been well received here. Everyone is going Can-AM now. My nearest dealership started with Honda back in the day, and picked up Can Am a few years ago, and is now the biggest Can Am dealer in this part of the country.

I always wanted an old MG or Triumph (or a Austin Healey 3000). Friend of mine growing up had a packrat grandfather who had two old MGB's, a 64 and a 65, back when they still had chrome bumpers and wire wheels. I bugged him forever to sell me one, and one day they disappeared. He'd sold both to someone for $1K. My first ride was a 50 Willy's Jeepster. Only made them 48-51, and my mom and uncle drove one when they were in high school. My grandfather held onto it all the way till the early 90's, drove us around in it when we were kids, and taught me to drive in it, and then sold it right before I got my license. I threw a fit and he said it was cobbled together and if it had been original he would have kept it. I found an all-original just like it with the rare 6 cylinder in Belzoni MS and he agreed to get it. I drove it for about a year before girls entered the picture and I found that they wanted heat, a radio, and roll up windows, and were not impressed with a 6 volt battery that required push starting fairly often, so we listed it for sale, sold it to a doctor in Memphis who said he was going to do a frame off restoration on it. I parked it between a 57 Chevy convertible and a VW Thing in his garage. Wish I'd kept it. Paid $3500 for it, sold it for $4500. My grandad split the profit with me and I used that as seed money to buy my 85 Jeep CJ that I still have. As far as gears go, in my Jeeps I have 2.73's in the green one with 31's. It's ok, but not ideal. The tan ones have 3.31's with 31's, and it's about perfect. At one time I bought an 83 with 2.73's and 33's, and it was a complete dog. These guys who say "My 420 Rancher turns 29.5 outlaws great with no GR" are full of it. Gearing is important, and the laws of physics are pretty firm last time I checked. First pic is the Jeepster I learned to drive in. I'm probably 14 in that pic. 2nd pic is the original that we bought in Belzoni, think I'm about 16 in that pic. They only made about 20K Jeepsters, and only about 2K came with the 6 cylinder. Rare care now. Starting to get pricey. Last pic is my current line-up. Green Jeep is a soft top that I put around town in. Tan CJ in the background has lockers front and rear and is my hunting rig (although most of the time now I just use my Foreman), and the Scrambler is Dad's that he bought new in 85. My 83 GMC is rarely used. Basically goes to the recycling dump when the bed fills up about once a month and that's about it.

I've just bought the cheap motion pro off of ebay. Work fine.

I’m South of Atlanta for a funeral. Drove right behind the storms yesterday. Looked like a tornado hit just west of Batesville MS. Sheds torn apart, roofs gone, and pivots torn apart and flipped over. We were lucky at home. Just lots of wind and rain

I don't know much about chains. What's the difference in a roller drive chain and an Oring chain? http://www.ghdiscountatvsupply.com/1985-1986-honda-trx125-428-x-92-drive-chain-front-rear-sprocket-kit-13t-50t-free-u-s-shipping/ Edited to add, looks like I'm better off with the oring chain, but given the age, wouldn't these orings have deteriorated quite a bit? https://www.fixyourdirtbike.com/tips/o-ring-chain-vs-roller-chain/

Good to know. I think I'll take the one off of the bike with the incomplete motor first, see how it goes. Looks like the subtransmission on these is prone to breaking. That and worn sprockets.

I assume it does. Haven't looked yet. I haven't ever worked on a chain drive but saw that in the FSM. How does the clip come off to take that master link apart?