jeepwm69

Hmmmm. So white/grey on one side of the switch, and have the relay trigger (either hot or ground, depending on what that white wire does in the grand scheme of things) hooked in there too so when the relay is activated it disconnects the two wire shifter switch? White/white on the other side of the switch. That sound right?

Did this to a buddy's bike a while back, and need to do it to the Rubicon I picked up. When you put a Hondamatic Rubicon in reverse, the computer limits the speed/power. You can trick the computer into thinking the transmission is in forward and have full power backing up. Keep in mind THIS CAN BE DANGEROUS SO DO IT AT YOUR OWN RISK. I believe Toodeep mentioned adding a switch allowing it to be put in "full power mode" and then switched back to regular mode in case the bike is loaned out or has kids riding it. Anyhow, it does come in handy if you're in some bad stuff and need all the power you can get backing out. Your display will read L instead of R when you put the machine in Reverse, but the red Reverse light on the dash will still light up. This will involve two switches on your Rubicon. The first is on the gear shifter. It is small and has two wires connected to it. Remove the small screw that holds the switch to the shifter assembly and place the switch behind the shifter, this is done to keep it from operating while in reverse. Remove it or tuck it out of the way in case you want to put it back later. The second switch is the gear position switch, it has 4 wires and is located on the frame, more or less under your right butt cheek if you're sitting on the seat. 4 wires in a square plug, White, Gray, Light Blue/White, and Light Green. Unhook the connector and you want to use the switch side of the connector to do your modifications. Find your Gray wire and your White wire (do it on the motor side of the plug, so you don't mess up your main harness). Cut the gray wire, leaving enough length to connect it to the white wire. Where you cut the gray wire, use the end that goes to the switch, NOT the end that goes back up to the connector. Take this end and connect it to the white wire. Once you have the gray wire coming from the switch connected to the white wire you can plug the connector back together. Now you Rubicon will go as fast in reverse as it does in forward gears. AGAIN, DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK. Maybe @toodeep can show us how and where he wired in a switch to go from normal to full power.

SuperATV bearing sizes for their front & rear disc brake kits: Front for the 2wd kit: 20x42x12mm = 6004-2RS Rear: 28x58x16mm = 62/28-2RS

I did nose around on a somewhat-local place's website and found Koyo bearings cheaper than Honda (same bearings) for most Foremans and Ranchers. Left rear bearing https://www.thebigbearingstore.com/koyo-60-32-2rsc3-radial-ball-bearing-32x58x13/ Left rear seal https://www.thebigbearingstore.com/42x58x10tc-metric-oil-seal/ Rear brake drum bearing https://www.thebigbearingstore.com/koyo-62-28-2rsc3-radial-ball-bearing-28x58x16/ Brake drum inner seal (inside of brake drum, going into axle tube) https://www.thebigbearingstore.com/34x58x6tc-metric-oil-seal/ Rear drum outer seal...this is a 14mm thick seal and the factory is 19mm thick I THINK it will still work but I'll let the experts chime in. https://www.thebigbearingstore.com/41x76x14tc9-metric-oil-seal-w-lip/

300 rear diffs Small Pinion bearing NK14X24.5X15 Large pinion bearing 22x56x16 (63/22-2RS) ring gear bearings (2 required) 43X68X13 Seals are 38X64X11TC pinion seal 42X51X7TC right side of diff 42X58X10TC left side of diff (stock is 42x58x11)

Here are some of the numbers of bearings and seals , from the Wide Open kits for the TRX250A /ATC250ES Wide Open diff kit : pinion bearing large /top KOYO Japan NQ14/16D pinion small bottom KOYO Japan 63/2281 pinion seal = = 91251-HC5-005 = 38x64x11 ( KOYO) = old number 91251-HA0-013 ring gear side bearings = 96100-60073-00 ( 6007 ) side seal left = 91252-HA0-003 = 35x49x6 (ARAI ) side seal right = 91253-HA0-004 = 35x54x6 (ARAI) = old number 91253-HA0-004 - pinion bearing small = 91061-HA0-004 = 14x22x16 pinion bearing large = 91061-ME4-004 = 22x56x16 Wide Open Axle kit : brake panel bearings /right side (2) RB08 ( Wide Open #) 62/28RS axle tube bearings /left side (2) RB09 ( Wide Open #) 60/32RS Left axle tube seal (Wide Open#) KOK TC 42 5810 = 91255-HAO-681= 425810=M600C Drum seal BS201 ( Wide Open #) 41 x 76 x 10.5 = 912262-HA8-003 =30-6701-1

Since bearings and finding decent bearings at a reasonable price are something that comes up often, I figured I'd post up some bearing sizes that I've run into doing projects. 350D rear end bearing part numbers Axle Pinion big bearing is 63/22 2RS Seal is 38x64x11 Two ring gear bearings are marked 6007RS Seals 35x49x6 and 35x54x6 Small pinion gear NK14x24.5x15 Axle tube bearings are 62/28-2RS and 60/32-2RS, two of each. Axle tube seals are 42x58x10

Welcome back Goober

You know it. Same Konami guys must have set up the programming instructions for resetting these Hondas. Have to push 100 buttons in a certain order at exact timing to get it right.

I didn't realize sales tax was that high up there Mel. Here it's about 10.5% and we have the highest sales tax in the nation (Arkansas and Tenn are about tied for highest in the nation, and Arkansas has a state income tax, where Tenn does not). For all the taxes they keep adding on, it sure seems like we aren't getting much. They just passed an additional gas tax here for road improvements a couple months ago, and on top of that they are now trying to get a 1/2 cent tax for road improvements, which was supposed to last 10 years and was passed in 2013....now they want to make it permanent.

Welcome aboard.

Soooo, how's your head Fish? LOL. Bet some booze was consumed around your place this weekend. I'm sure this will be frowned upon as blasphemy by real Cajuns, but I mix up some stuff when we ride in cold weather that uses Zatarains black bean and rice boxed stuff as a base. Cool that up, add sausage, chicken, garlic, onion, more rice, more beans, and sometimes okra. Stuff is good and really sticks to your ribs. That said, the Zatarains black bean and rice boxes have disappeared around here. Nobody's carrying it anymore, so I bought all I found last time I was in Memphis and when it's gone I guess I'll have to order it on Amazon.

I remember when OU played LSU for the BCS in NOLA. All the OU fans were crying about how crazy the LSU fans were. I got a real kick out of it. OU fans were all crying about cars being turned over and getting beer poured on them after the game. Never liked OU after sitting through the 2002 Cotton Bowl. OU was ranked pretty high, Arkansas was 7-5 IIRC. All the OU fans around us were complete jerks, and even started a fight with one of my group. They're my "I root for whoever they're playing" team. The corndogs (I say that with affection Fish) go NUTS down there. Probably the craziest fan base in NCAA.

LOL. Like trying to reinitialize an 05-14 Rubicon? Up, Up, Down, Down, Left, Right, Left, Right, B, A, Select, Start Was trying to get a buddy of mine walked through initializing his Rubicon. Took him about 20 times to get the timing right where it worked.

That is lucky. We have it quite a few places around here but it's about 50 cents a gallon more!

I had a pretty good bearing cross reference thread going at one time. Need to put that info up here. Common bearings are cheaper than buying OEM, but a lot of these bearings aren't real common, so it's cheaper to order from Honda that it is to order from a bearings shop. I got the bearings to rebuild one of these 424's real cheap on ebay, for quality bearings. Much cheaper than buying a rebuild kit (my cable etc were fine)

So opposite the CDI (ish) Will try to look tomorrow. Think the parts bike I have is an 89

What’s it look like, and any way to test one? I might have one on one of these carcasses

Welcome! When you make a bunch of changes that nobody likes, and ignore the people posting, they leave. Glad you found us

Lol. Guess you’re the only game in town if someone wants one fixed

Had an 18 year old girl here killed last weekend. Was riding in a SXS at night with a boy and he hit something, threw her out and apparently broke her neck. Boy was airlifted. I was out at work with this gimpy back so didn’t get any more details, but reinforced my decision that my girls don’t ride without me.

I managed to tweek my back again, so I haven’t left the house in two days. Picked up a 500 motor last week, carried it into the shop. No problem. Wed I try to pick the baby up, guess I was twisted just right when I did it. There goes the back again

The warranty is good for one time free replacement. They did send me new ones on the one set I’ve sent back in. That said, I don’t care if they send me infinite sets, I’d rather pay more and not have to change them out all the time

Looks like the acquisition happened in 2016..... http://www.pivotworks.com/LearningResources.aspx?ItemID=734&page=1

Just got off the phone with Pivotworks. The guy there confirmed that for a couple of years now All Balls and Pivotworks have been the same bearings in different packaging. I have a set in the wife’s Rancher that have held up well (not a tremendous amount of use, probably put them in around 2013) and the set I put in my buddy’s Rincon lasted 5 years, but looks like it was as I feared; taking a reputable brand, sticking a lesser product in the packaging, and hoping to sell a bunch before the consumer catches on. The guy said “Well they have a free one time replacement” and my response to that was “Yeah but I don’t want to spend all my time swapping out bearings. My time is worth something too” I got these cheap so I will use them and then take advantage of the free replacement but the next time I have to buy bearings I will be going back to OEM Honda