jeepwm69

I'm not posting pictures of my shop, because...well it's a nightmare. I recently started cleaning some stuff out because I have so much space taken up storing parts that I no longer have a place to work. That said, I got two big 41" toolboxes (top and bottom) made by Waterloo that were some of my Walmart closeout scores, and they'll hold my tools. Finally got my great grandfather's old drafting desk moved out to the farm shop so I had room for toolboxes and can finally get my parts washer set up. Hoping I get a couple of hours to work out there this weekend. I gotta make getting my shop clean a priority, but life keeps getting in the way. As far as tools, a compressor and impact have helped me more than anything. Makes everything SO much faster and easier.

I really dig that trailer. That thing would come in handy!

Well someone gave me a 2wd 300 a while back. No rear end, no top end, but it's a 95 and had decent fenders, racks, and the bottom end still turns over so I'm going to try to fix it. I have successfully put 07-13 420 brakes on a 4x4 300. The only thing that was required was wallowing out the upper a-arm ball joint hole to accept the bigger 375 ball joint that the foremans use. It's kind of a PITA, but it can be done. After that the 420 knuckles fit right on the a-arms at the ball joints, and I had disc brakes using factory Honda parts. The 2wd upper arms are the same as the 4wd upper arms, so deductive reasoning says you could do the same with 420 2wd brakes from an 07-13 420. I've already bought two spindles and hub and rotor assemblies to try it out. Already have extra calipers on hand.

Guess that's one downfall of the system. Another I wondered about is, if you have a battery that goes bad over time (they don't last forever, even on a tender), and you don't know it, will you have a constant drain on the other batteries while the tender tries to keep up but cannot?

I have several of these carcasses I've picked up. Most were free to $50-60. Rear ends will bring $200-400, but looks like someone has already raided that one. Good bikes if you can get a whole one!

Welcome aboard

Looks like the rear end is gone? If so, probably not, unless you have an 86-87 350 you need parts for. You could buy it and part it, but don't know how much you'd really make on it. Gas tanks, if clean, can bring $.

I stocked up on 45/70 when I found it for $7/box at a store about an hour from home. Made the drive, got all they had. They’re only closing out handgun and “assault rifle” ammo (although interestingly enough the 7.62x51 ball wasn’t marked down). 9mm is under 10 cents a round. Stock up while it’s cheap.

I just remember after he went nuts on the bottom of his engine with the grinder and someone said “you’re the reason they have to put warning labels on shampoo”

My giant and somewhat slow/ intellectually challenged riding buddy is here lurking. @basfnb is what we use when the winches stop working. Gotta have that one big friend who can rage stuff out of the way. LOL

I know you hate to see them almost be tame around you and then get taken during season. Hopefully they remain very wary of other humans.

Walmart marked down all their pistol and "assault weapon" (IDIOTS) ammo around here today. It's about 1/2 of retail, and my local store had not yet marked it down when I did my shopping earlier today. They aren't going to carry these calibers anymore at all, so if I had to guess prices will go up without the competition keeping them low. Might be worth checking at your local store if you like to shoot. Hunting ammo is still regular price, but any handgun ammo and stuff like 7.62x39, 223, 300 BLK etc are marked down quite a bit.

I think anyone who's split more than one motor has done that.....

Oh wow, that Camero is beautiful. Can't help with the transmission issues. At first glance sounded like you got the gear position switch put in 180 out, but if that were the case you'd run out of gears without being able to shift 1-5. That said, that would explain why you couldn't find Neutral. I would check that before you tear the motor down again. Can you find reverse?

68 here last night at 9PM. 33 now with snow showers.

Co-op here will provide a loaner tank and pump if you buy 1000 gals. Friend of mine who farms gets his gas that way for all his farm trucks (and his wife). Gets a pretty good discount on the gas too.

You know, I'm not THAT old, but I remember getting a 12 pack of Miller Lite and putting 10 gals of gas in my Jeep and that $20 would last me a whole day.

Thanks guys. Yeah Toodeep's little picture makes me think I got way off the reservation making that more complicated than it needed to be.

Hmmmm. So white/grey on one side of the switch, and have the relay trigger (either hot or ground, depending on what that white wire does in the grand scheme of things) hooked in there too so when the relay is activated it disconnects the two wire shifter switch? White/white on the other side of the switch. That sound right?

Did this to a buddy's bike a while back, and need to do it to the Rubicon I picked up. When you put a Hondamatic Rubicon in reverse, the computer limits the speed/power. You can trick the computer into thinking the transmission is in forward and have full power backing up. Keep in mind THIS CAN BE DANGEROUS SO DO IT AT YOUR OWN RISK. I believe Toodeep mentioned adding a switch allowing it to be put in "full power mode" and then switched back to regular mode in case the bike is loaned out or has kids riding it. Anyhow, it does come in handy if you're in some bad stuff and need all the power you can get backing out. Your display will read L instead of R when you put the machine in Reverse, but the red Reverse light on the dash will still light up. This will involve two switches on your Rubicon. The first is on the gear shifter. It is small and has two wires connected to it. Remove the small screw that holds the switch to the shifter assembly and place the switch behind the shifter, this is done to keep it from operating while in reverse. Remove it or tuck it out of the way in case you want to put it back later. The second switch is the gear position switch, it has 4 wires and is located on the frame, more or less under your right butt cheek if you're sitting on the seat. 4 wires in a square plug, White, Gray, Light Blue/White, and Light Green. Unhook the connector and you want to use the switch side of the connector to do your modifications. Find your Gray wire and your White wire (do it on the motor side of the plug, so you don't mess up your main harness). Cut the gray wire, leaving enough length to connect it to the white wire. Where you cut the gray wire, use the end that goes to the switch, NOT the end that goes back up to the connector. Take this end and connect it to the white wire. Once you have the gray wire coming from the switch connected to the white wire you can plug the connector back together. Now you Rubicon will go as fast in reverse as it does in forward gears. AGAIN, DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK. Maybe @toodeep can show us how and where he wired in a switch to go from normal to full power.

SuperATV bearing sizes for their front & rear disc brake kits: Front for the 2wd kit: 20x42x12mm = 6004-2RS Rear: 28x58x16mm = 62/28-2RS

I did nose around on a somewhat-local place's website and found Koyo bearings cheaper than Honda (same bearings) for most Foremans and Ranchers. Left rear bearing https://www.thebigbearingstore.com/koyo-60-32-2rsc3-radial-ball-bearing-32x58x13/ Left rear seal https://www.thebigbearingstore.com/42x58x10tc-metric-oil-seal/ Rear brake drum bearing https://www.thebigbearingstore.com/koyo-62-28-2rsc3-radial-ball-bearing-28x58x16/ Brake drum inner seal (inside of brake drum, going into axle tube) https://www.thebigbearingstore.com/34x58x6tc-metric-oil-seal/ Rear drum outer seal...this is a 14mm thick seal and the factory is 19mm thick I THINK it will still work but I'll let the experts chime in. https://www.thebigbearingstore.com/41x76x14tc9-metric-oil-seal-w-lip/

300 rear diffs Small Pinion bearing NK14X24.5X15 Large pinion bearing 22x56x16 (63/22-2RS) ring gear bearings (2 required) 43X68X13 Seals are 38X64X11TC pinion seal 42X51X7TC right side of diff 42X58X10TC left side of diff (stock is 42x58x11)

Here are some of the numbers of bearings and seals , from the Wide Open kits for the TRX250A /ATC250ES Wide Open diff kit : pinion bearing large /top KOYO Japan NQ14/16D pinion small bottom KOYO Japan 63/2281 pinion seal = = 91251-HC5-005 = 38x64x11 ( KOYO) = old number 91251-HA0-013 ring gear side bearings = 96100-60073-00 ( 6007 ) side seal left = 91252-HA0-003 = 35x49x6 (ARAI ) side seal right = 91253-HA0-004 = 35x54x6 (ARAI) = old number 91253-HA0-004 - pinion bearing small = 91061-HA0-004 = 14x22x16 pinion bearing large = 91061-ME4-004 = 22x56x16 Wide Open Axle kit : brake panel bearings /right side (2) RB08 ( Wide Open #) 62/28RS axle tube bearings /left side (2) RB09 ( Wide Open #) 60/32RS Left axle tube seal (Wide Open#) KOK TC 42 5810 = 91255-HAO-681= 425810=M600C Drum seal BS201 ( Wide Open #) 41 x 76 x 10.5 = 912262-HA8-003 =30-6701-1

Since bearings and finding decent bearings at a reasonable price are something that comes up often, I figured I'd post up some bearing sizes that I've run into doing projects. 350D rear end bearing part numbers Axle Pinion big bearing is 63/22 2RS Seal is 38x64x11 Two ring gear bearings are marked 6007RS Seals 35x49x6 and 35x54x6 Small pinion gear NK14x24.5x15 Axle tube bearings are 62/28-2RS and 60/32-2RS, two of each. Axle tube seals are 42x58x10