jeepwm69

So do your jumper wire trick, but leave grey ECU plug off and measure backfed voltage at the plug?

🤦‍♂️ no idea how to add an ATC page. Maybe Retro can do it. I have a 185S in the yard that’s been sitting awhile. I might get to it one of these days

It’s good. If I pull it I get full battery voltage on one lug. When I put it back i get about a one volt drop when I measure voltage at the fuse

No voltage at all at the coil with the gray plug disconnected on the ECU.

You'd be fine. I have 26" MudBugs on my kid's stock 350 Rancher AND my other kid's stock 300. I wouldn't want to go bigger on either machine, but since you're only looking at 25's you'd be perfectly ok.

When he did my meter it took less than a week, including shipping both ways to Alaska!

I missed this question. Did you ever get an answer to this part? I know my ES converted to footshift does show the proper gear but always throws an error code when you shift. The N displayed for all gears could be a broken shift drum, which was common in 2000-2001 350's, and if the rear of the shift drum broke off, or alternatively, someone might have have hardwired it to show N all the time so it would start.

No idea. He's a good kid though. He and his dad are on a trip now to haul loads of hay to the Texas panhandle where the fires have hurt so many farmers.

Well Highlifter closed their forum down and that thread disappeared, so you wouldn't have found anything. Let us know if it works ok once you get the rear stuff swapped over.

I think you're on the right track. Back when the highlifter forum was still up there was a guy who tried swapping 420 to 500 engines and there was a difference in the pickup coil, flywheel etc. If you're trying to use the 520 wiring harness I would sap the flywheel, CKP etc all off of the 520 engine and put it on the 420 case. Welcome aboard!

This belongs to a kid who graduated last year with my middle kid. His family farms, row crops and cattle. The dad put both his boys to work when they were 5-6 years old, and the one who graduated with my kid just wants to be a truck driver. Not just any truck driver either, a vintage 70's truck driver. He has that long nose Pete, complete with the chrome "reclining babe" emblems in appropriate places, wears clothes straight out of the late 70's, and has a 100 running lights on the thing. Weighs about 90 pounds soaking wet too.

Paging @AKATV. He's the meter expert.

Well let me unplug that grey connector after work and see what I get. You know I'm a little scatterbrained LOL

Those are neat little machines. Walmart clearanced some of the new ones 4-5 years ago and I almost bought one.

Hey @Melatv! There are two red wires, a black wire, and a pink wire. Wasn’t sure which to jump so I just hooked up two different extra ignition switches I had in the shop and neither made a difference. I also unplugged the fuel injection relay and it also made no difference in voltage to the coil with key on.

@Wheeler

While searching for a coil, I came across an aftermarket listing that showed fitment to be 2012-2013 Foreman, AND 14-up 420 Ranchers. I compared it to a 420 coil on my buddy's kid's Rancher, and the connections are the same, so I tried it. Same results (no spark), except this one doesn't get warm when cranking. I still get a voltage drop in the coil wires when I hook up the coil, but show 1 volt more with the wires NOT hooked up to the coil. (Full battery voltage at Blk/Red wire if I have it off the coil, and 11.XX volts if I hook the coil up).

Been plugging away on the gaskets on this thing. Nothing like rock hard 40 year old gaskets to make you want to toss the whole project in the lake. These early Honda engines have gaskets on EVERYTHING too. No Hondabond anywhere, all paper gaskets. I probably have 4-5 hours just in gasket scraping on this engine. You can see the pile of gasket bits from this morning up next to the ratchet. The rings I had to order from Australia should be here today. Apparently pistons and rings for these 125's have become impossible to find. I've noticed piston supply for even common engines hasn't really come back post-covid. Seems the 125's are pretty much unobtanium now, which stinks because I have two of them out back and am worried I won't be able to get rings for them when the time comes. So, while we're on the subject, any "tricks of the trade" for these ancient, rock hard gaskets?

that cover should clean up with a headlight polishing kit. pretty sure AKATV can fix your actual screen

Honda lists the 2012-2013 coils as only fitting those models. I’ll have to see if the woman wants to drop $60-70 on a new one or $35 on a used one. PSN doesn’t show one in stock. If I determine that was the problem hopefully they’ll refund me for this one. I’ve had it for several weeks.

So I’ve been going from one into the other on this Foreman following the black/red wire, and as soon as I put the ignition fuse in I get a voltage drop. I started unplugging components wanted a time and measuring the black and red wire at the fuse box to see if the voltage drop had gone away, and when I unplugged the black and red coil wire and measured voltage there with the coil unplugged, it has battery voltage there. I had been pulling the two coil wires partially off of the spade connectors just enough to get my voltmeter leads on to measure for voltage with the coil still connected. @retro, you mentioned a shorted coil. Does this sound right? I’m going to look in the morning in the factory service manual and see if there is a procedure for testing the coil, but it appears I might’ve gotten a rare bad part from PSN.

Found my old hand impact driver and lo and behold the JIS bits I bought a while back that wouldn't fit in my Milwaukee impact DO fit in the hand impact driver, so I was able to get the remaining 3 JIS bolts out without having to cut/ drill them. I didn't find anything that looked bad at all with the transmission, so spent over an hour scraping gaskets and cleaning the crankcase halves, and will try to get the center cases back together with a new gasket in the morning if I can drag myself out of bed. Still haven't figure out why the thing wouldn't shift. I haven't found anything bent or broken. It's almost like something was bound up a bit and freed up when I took everything apart.

If it's slipping, yes. Could be the Hondamatic, could be the oil pump starving the Hondamatic for oil pressure. Until you can do an oil pressure test you shouldn't keep running it. If your Hondamatic is still ok you might get by replacing the oil pump. If you keep running it with low oil pressure you will destroy the Hondamatic.

A new oil pump might fix the issue if the Hondamatic isn’t bad. My Father in Law’s 06 has 13k hard miles on it and going strong

Gotcha! Looking at the wiring diagram you posted above it did look like a wire Y'ing off the black/red before it went to the ECU, but I don't speak electrical, much less read diagrams!