toodeep

Just the head gasket. The cylinder has enough smaller bolts holding it in place that the gasket stays bonded.

I use an air/electric plastic welder (if you have any older body shops around they might have one) and do the weld on the bottom side of the fender. mine is a knock off of the Seeley welder but I haven't seen them in a long time (on the cheap side). It's as strong or stronger than before the damage. I haven't used any of the cheap versions offered now to know if they are any good or not. The glues do not hold, you would be better off heating paper clips and forcing them in like the "welder" fish posted.

Was the letters up on the shift forks when they was installed? I don't even know if it's possible to install them upside down but maybe it is. They should have had RR, CN, FR on them and they all would face the front side of the motor. Those would have been pulled loose or removed when replacing the shifter (what the fork slides into) for the 1st/reverse gear.

You faced the dots on the new shifter towards the first gear correct? if your bench testing the shifting with the cases apart sometimes you need to rotate them a lot and help them fall into place.

The problem is hit and miss and with the number of machines out there kind of a small number. I haven't had any issues after replacing them with OEM parts. I've seen issues with aftermarket cams as well so it's not just OEM that can do it.

I stick with OEM. I've ran the performance cams in the Rincons and can't say they did anything by themselves. You will need a head gasket, head cover gasket, camshaft and followers. You might want to get the exhaust gasket on the cylinder head as well. With only 500 miles on it all the other parts should be like new yet. A little tip when setting the timing, lay a flat card/razor blade on the head to help line up the mark. If you have a local dealer they might have the stuff in stock. Ordering online I go through Rocky Mountain ATV for my stuff.

The start in gear switch not getting turned off because of a sticking brake lever is known but that start to spit and sputter right away when trying to ride it. The reverse limiter would do the same, kill the ignition making it spit and sputter way before the speed he is getting out of it. I haven't seen that issue but I suppose anything can happen.

Welcome to the forum.

Don't forget on the 450 they used ES/S from 98-01. They switched to FE/FM when they added the traxlock for the 02-04. Now all the newer models it's all letters and numbers (ex. FE2) so it covers power steering, if it's a deluxe and the suspension with just a number. 1- SRA, 2- SRA w/ EPS, 5- IRS, 6- IRS w/ EPS, 7- IRS w/ eps and deluxe Just adding a little more to the knowledge given already.

Where is it leaking? I have came across a few over the years that the reverse stop arm wasn't seated correctly (I would guess they thought it stayed in place) and the spring put a groove in the cases when they tried to put it back together. A little high temp hondabond fixed them right up.

Remove the cabin seat back and crap little black cover. With it running play with the wires going to the injectors and you might find a bad one. It's common enough you can buy the pre wired connectors all over the web.

Unless I missed where you have done it already, take the time and inspect the cam followers (lifters). I bet your going to find one that has wear on it (if you can get it to pull out) and starting to wear the cam lobe down. I've done this rodeo a few times and that is what I would do. Actually I would plan on replacing the camshaft and do the inspection on the tear down just to confirm, but that's me. The ECM does have a rev limiter built in but I have never seen one mess up to do this, online or in my shop.

All the Rincons, Big Red, Pioneer and even the Rubicons (up to 2014) could have the cam problems. When they go, they go and they don't have to wear down much to start giving issues. I've seen them go bad with all different mileage on them, 200 - 20,000 miles. My only other thought is nest in the intake system/air box snorkel blocking air flow. A very, very uncommon problem would be the pulse generator/ pick up coil but those usually just gave a random issue.

I've used the US General ones and they are good. I haven't been around the Yukon ones yet. I have had good luck with their floor jacks and quite a few of their products. I even used one of their welders for a while and it would weld fine but lacked the adjustments I want in a welder.

I'll put my guess on the camshaft. They go bad fast when they go. You can take the top cover off and remove the followers to inspect it without removing the cylinder head. The rear bearing on the camshaft is another thing to go bad but that should have given you tight intake tappet clearance. They use metal gaskets on these so a little spray paint will give it a coating to make it seal again if you find nothing bad. There's no serious pressure on the top cover gasket.

You have a newer Rubicon with the DCT correct? If so I would keep a spare angle sensor on hand since they are fairly cheap and possibly a shift motor. Boots for the axles (All Balls are cheap and good) would be another thing.

They used these acc outlets on the outboard motors as well as ATVs. If your searching that might widen the possibilities of finding one. That little cap was sold only with the receptacle outlet if I remember right so it would probably be easier to find an extra plug to block it off when not in use.

Almost all of the machines are pretty dependable when used and maintained correctly. To say which would be best for you would be tough not knowing the desired use for the machine. I have many machines and each one I prefer for different tasks. My most widely used machine is the MUV BigRed because I have pretty much everything in it that I might need. I use mine around the farm so if I see a fence that needs some attention the stretcher, wire, staples, ties, hammer, pliers are all there waiting to be used. If a trees down or a branch needs trimmed I have the chainsaw, hatchet or machete is ready to go. If I see a coyote or other varmint the gun is just above my head. The radio and other things are just conveniences. My main choice when chasing cows is the 420 Rancher (auto with IRS) unless we are just moving them then I prefer the sxs as well. I have an old 350 Foreman that's my spray rig and many others for just random tasks. If your looking at used or new options in my area are very slim. Now is the best time to sell but when buying the picks are slim, especially for a good price.

The center pulls out and is labeled with + and - so you could wire anything 12vdc that you wanted to to it. It wasn't to force customers to buy only Honda accessories. The company was different back then. The plug is meant to be more weather resistant than the regular cigarette style they had back in those days.

What year is your machine? Is the fuel pump cycling when you turn the key switch on?

I also prefer paper over the PDF versions but I'm just going to guess he would get by just fine with the free PDF download we have on here.

If you have that out that would explain that, as they work together. That is defiantly bad and could cause some shifting issues. When trying to shift you will have to be spinning the tires to rotate the gears so the engagement dogs have a chance to line up and complete the shift. When it stops or bottoms out I would guess the dogs on each gear are hitting each other not allowing a complete shift because of no rotation. When you did turn the tires it then tried to complete the shift. I would suggest getting a good return spring and get it back in place. Then try shifting while rotating the tires. Keep in mind sometimes you will need to shift a few times to complete the shift this way because you are rotating the gears slower than they would be during normal operation.

This is the "bolt" I'm talking about.

From the vid it looks like the shift stop bolt (left side) is broke or gone. That shifter should be returning to the mid position every time by itself. When you moved to the right side you mentioned the shift return spring but that would be on the left side (uses that stop bolt to work) so I don't know if it just came to mind then or if you found something on the right side as well. Before going back together at any point. On the right side make sure the reverse stop lever and spring are properly seated in place. I see it's still in the side cover (so you could shift to reverse without pulling the lever) and it needs to be installed in the motor before you try putting that side cover back on.

I'm kind of jealous you guys get to choose different carriers. I can but none get any service besides Verizon. If I want to use the phone I have one carrier to choose from, even though I can see the att tower from my house.