toodeep

That is your main brain for the machine. There is a part number on it under the rubber holder. I'm guessing you replaced it with a wrong part since you had issues right after. Power steering, foot shift, electric shift, automatic 2x4, 4x4 all make a difference when finding the correct parts.

Since it was just parked make sure the left handlebar kill switch didn't get bumped. The most common thing on the 450 for no spark has been the regulator for me. It could be as simple as a blown fuse as well.

All Balls for replacement boots. They are exactly OEM spec (you can still use oem clamps), cheap, come with grease and universal clamps if needed.

Good to see familiar names as well as the new ones, welcome aboard.

Start with a new spark plug and most likely it will be fixed,.

It was 2000 something when Honda switched to returnable crates and they built them out of their China manufacturing plant. World wide companies have operations everywhere so they can save when needed.

With the key off you should have no power going to the solenoid to activate it (yellow/red wire) and it should only be powered when pushing the starter button with the key on. The green wire is ground triggered by neutral or a false neutral when starting it in gear (pull the brake). If both of those wires check good, you got a bad solenoid.

You need to strap an EU2200 in the back for those longer trips. I'm surprised they don't do 4 individual motors at each wheel to get away from the drive line power loss.

They can be voltage sensitive so if your battery is getting weak or has a low charge it might give issues. Did you use honda angle sensors or aftermarket?

I found an old post when I still had a better memory. https://www.hondaforeman.com/threads/itp-center-caps.157929/

I think they was just a C series with no numbers. One of my favorite ITP wheels. Another company remade them for a while after ITP discontinued them. They used a tall hub cap and I used a short on mine but I would have to look to see if I can even find which ones they are, A little alumabrite and those things will shine again.

All cleaned up.

Usually when the transmission slips on those it because the oil pump pick up screen is plugged (complete disassembly of the motor) but I have never seen it with that low of mileage. I also never see them with that low of mileage unless it's for the very first oil change.

Those tires have a lot of wear on them for 340 miles. Mileage also doesn't match with oil change intervals. If it was sunk or anything like that the $$$ can rack up pretty fast. If he just didn't put enough oil in it, it would be a cheap fix.

Just a flat head screw driver is all that's needed to get them out. If your trying to save them, don't touch them. You'll need to expand the muffler side to get that new carbon gasket in easily. A socket and a little prying from whatever (the same screwdriver maybe) gives it just enough to spread it.

All moose does is rebrand parts from other suppliers. In the past I have installed both kits and they was exactly the same kits, exactly. Like I said, I have no idea who they are using for a supplier now but to make more money I'm also guessing from china.

Moose use to be just rebranded shindy. I'm not sure who they have for a supplier now days though.

Did the lights work the few times it was running?

The regulator/rectifier is one of the most common things that will go bad and cause no fire on these machines.

If you can run something through the snorkel to make sure something didn't try to nest in it. Also the vent line on the gas cap if you haven't tested that already.

Looks good. I see the genius honda plastic brake bushing is froze up on yours like many others.

You can find the download for a service manual on the main menu bar of the forum. Here are a couple snap shots from it.

See if your getting power to the fuel pump when you first turn the key on or move the left handlebar kill switch. If your getting power then you have a pump problem. If your not you have the fuel pump relay to check out and most likely stuck. If I leave mine sit for long periods of time I have to give the fuel pump relay a good smack to get it working again.

Some 300s are doggy compared to others while yet others are hot out of the box. Just something to keep in mind when chasing an iffy problem. If the rubber on the throttle plunger is expanded, not properly seated or has a hole in it you won't get full throttle out of it or quick acceleration.

I haven't ran the wandas (wrong size in the link if you have the factory wheels yet) but it's tough to beat the bear claw for an all around tire. They wear good and have good forward and reverse traction in all terrains.