toodeep

Why order a 18mm die to trace threads on a 20mm shaft? 2 mm doesn't seem like much but trust me, she will know the difference. Honda lists the nut as 20mm, the thread jeep posted (except for that last user posting from nowhere) has it at 20mm. I would say it's 20mm.

I don't have anything handy to measure right now but the 20mm 1.00 thread pitch at the start of that thread jeep posted sounds correct. All I have ever used to clean up those kind of threads was a thread file.

Is there enough left on the crankshaft to use a thread file to clean up the threads and use a good nut or is it smooth and beyond repair? From Honda: 90235-HA0-680 NUT, LOCK (20MM)

Yes, just toss it in the box and forget about it. I'm not sure at what temps these guys are riding in but there is no way in he!! I'm riding in weather cold enough to freeze gasoline. I usually draw the line once it's cold enough to freeze the beer, but I have been on a few of those rides. The old 300 with no carb heater didn't care at all.

If you could get a video of it when it's doing it we might have better guesses. Does it do it when the machine is under a load (turning sharp or pulling something), all the time or just random?

Most likely you have a broken ground somewhere in the wiring harness. Some testing will let you know that or not. If it is it's about as easy to tap in a new ground source (they are all connected in the harness) to one of the ground wires on the front side of the harness. Only way to know for sure is testing though. You tried all the basic parts and being an 07 power steering is ruled out so all that's left is wiring.

A long punch, rod, crowbar or whatever you have around the width of the hub so it will reach through.

You should be able to just knock them out. The center spacer does have little tabs that is suppose to keep it in place but usually there is enough play to get on a bearing and knock it out.

I don't have any but I haven't been looking either.

I had a few minutes so I ran out and grabbed my junk one and tore it down. Quite a few piston pins broke off in it and one of the cages that make them operate. Gives you an idea of what could happen anyway.

The 2019/2020 had an update for the fuel pump but if yours is a 2021 model it wouldn't be in that. The relays are under the tank cover and I would have to look in the manual to determine which one is for the fuel pump. If you can hear the fuel pump hum when you turn the key on it should be getting power though and that would make me think fuel pump. Checking the power going to the fuel pump would confirm that.

Just the transmission can be replaced. On mine since I found a complete motor I choose to use the motor with 600 miles on it vs the one with 14,000 miles on it.

The transmission is a hydro pump unit more than a transmission. Usually it's either bad bearings or scored pistons that cause the issue. Our problem is they are not serviceable. A few guys spent time sourcing parts close enough and with some machine work rebuilt them (the rubicon that shares the same style) but if there's internal damage they are junk. I bought a 400FA a few years ago with a bad transmission (same as yours) and got lucky and found a complete motor with only 600 miles on it. It did go through a fire but what I needed was all good. $450 to my door, swapped out a few case covers and that machine was up and going again. It took me about a year to stumble across that good motor though. In my area the market prices seem to be going back down so price wise it might be more feasible to update and part your machine out or search for a wrecked machine you can buy cheap for parts.

Are you getting a grinding noise when it's giving problems? There are no seals in the oil pump (the Rincon did have o ring issues but that's a different set up) so that shouldn't be an issue. It is possible an internal o ring went bad and bleeding off oil presure but very slim. If your oil level is being checked correctly and your using quality oil, the 2 honda shops are probably correct. NOW... If there is no grinding noise (with that oil pressure test there should be) then it might just be the centrifugal clutch slipping but with the info given I hate to say I don't think that is it.

My thoughts are that the younger riders, when online, want the fast pace conversations (like chat) and that's why social media like FB are still going strong. The old wait for the correct answer of the forums is still the best but they will go through 100s of bad answers and ignore a good answer on FB instead. All the searches anymore are for selling stuff. You have to actually type in "forum" to get any old forum post in a search result unless it's something they can't sell you or you tube doesn't have it. That's another thing I noticed, the younger riders seem to like videos more than reading on how to fix a problem. I personally hate watching that 8 minute video to get the 2 seconds to answer the issue. Don't get me wrong, I'm glad people take the time to make those but I'm still an old read it and look at the schematics kind of person. For kicks I just browsed the HF site and it looks like a bunch of new unanswered posts and maybe even a few of their "hired" problem posts. That is one thing that really made me mad is when they payed others to post (no proof just my observation) to make the forum look more active. I'm still holding the second spot on posting though. lol

The 2 side vents just come up to a Y (not needed) to join into a single tube and it just routes up to the plastic cover under the fuel tank. The air cut off valve just goes to the front side of the carb. The drain/overflow line can hang around about anywhere it can drain. You about have to look at all the photos in the fuel section of the repair manual to see all the angles of them being routed.

A propane/MAP torch and a few heat, cool cycles will probably help loosen it and let the oils work in.

Does the choke cable have enough play and free movement? If it's tight then it will choke the machine when turning and possibly flood it enough to kill it.

So it want's to shut the choke off on it's own? The original description said it wanted to go to the open position and to me with an SE valve that said choked. The choke lever has little "clicks" that are probably worn down (the spring isn't pushing it out far enough) on top of the rubber on the SE valve being worn so there is no resistance to let it hold. That should make it easy to use instead of hard though unless that just meant for the user and not the operation of the choke. If the lever is hard to move then that spring or the housing is probably worn and nothing is perfectly inline anymore causing a little binding under pressure.

It sometimes takes a few times but a new carb will defiantly fix it. It's more common on the 400/450 foremans but I have seen it on the rancher where the pin holding the float in place wears into the carb body and then it doesn't matter what you do the float height will never be correct.

You need to polish the seat that the float needle sits in. Q tip and whatever you can find to polish it (toothpaste, metal polishers, lapping compound, etc.) It might take a few times but you can usually get it clean enough for the needle to seat again. The float is plastic so there is no adjusting that. If you could you would just hold the float in the neutral position (just touching on the needle) to get the measurement.

Heat that bottom tube to get the aluminum expanded a little and even a cheap electric impact will help. If using a breaker bar keep the right side in place and just loose. Be careful and take your time as these parts are not the easiest to find. Once it's off then most likely the real fun will begin trying to press it out of the hub/bearings. I have one I have to fix a tire and brakes on, I'm not looking forward to doing it because of the past experiences with them. It will most likely take a lot of time that will cut into my paying jobs (doing this for an old classmate).

I'm glad your got it going and now can enjoy it. I have a different opinion on the transmission than the above statement. Besides wearing the clutches (mostly on the heavier sxs using the same motor) they have been bullet proof.

You'll like the power steering especially on rough trails. The suspension is usually pretty stiff on these models but IRS is a different ride and you get use to it the more time you spend on it. If it has a lot of miles on it or carried heavy loads on the racks the rear sway bar might have some play giving it a different feeling as well. Axles aren't really a huge issue but the stiff plastic boots they use makes it hard to find even the smallest hole in them (you about have to see the grease residue). Because of that it's easy to get moisture in them and ruin an axle before you even know you have an issue. Replacement boots (I like the all balls brand) and most aftermarket axles have the rubber boots that you can squeeze and hear the air come out with a small hole in it. All in all they are a good machine and dependable.

With it being new it's going to shift a little hard at first. Once you break it in and the clutch is readjusted it will get better. If the R is showing on the indicator you can start it by pulling the front brake lever (right). If it's stuck between a gear and showing -- that will not work. If you can get it running it will make it easier to shift since the gears will be rotating some (you might need to give a little throttle though). When they are first started they will run a little faster until warmed up and that makes them harder to shift as well. You might want to let it warm up if you still can't get it to shift. If you can't get it started either by the front brake or trying to shift it back into reverse to get the R rock it back and forth quite a bit and work the shifter with your hand. The IRS gives some play in the drive line so it take a little extra rocking to get the gears to move.