toodeep

Most I've seen go bad was because of short rides and condensation build up behind the switch. Did you test the switch that's still in the machine? What issues are you having, just reverse? If just reverse the wire might have just came unplugged.

Sounds normal to me since about everyone of them I'm around give that chirp sound. Some are a lot worse than others but most have it. Most all of them are higher mileage machines so I just figure it's baffles inside getting a little restricted or maybe even came loose in a few spots. I just revert to the old saying "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". lol

No.

I would try cleaning the IACV again. Every now and then it takes a couple times to get it working properly.

I haven't seen one with the curved push tubes. All of mine was older models Cycle Country with straight tubes and my first one was all rod operated to lift and lower it. It could be a real knee breaker if you didn't know what you was doing. Second one had a chain on the part that hooks to the blade and I think they went to a strap after that.

I seen the title and thought instantly glucose meter, my son uses the one touch brand. Camshaft placement and just being tuned correctly has been my theory. Of course all the newer machines with the cam placed lower in the motor have the auto decompression that most likely makes them start a little harder, yet turn over easier by releasing compression. Even the old ATC 185/200 that had the auto decompression started good but that decompression system never worked (was deleted) on every one I had.

There are a lot of openings in the motor so the oil can easily flow around just being oil, no pumping. There will be oil present with both of them and pretty much every other honda out there. There are a few motorcycles that run a dry stator/flywheel but most of them all run in oil. Are checking the oil correctly? After the machine has been sitting for an extended time (overnight would be best) start and let the machine idle for 2 - 3 minutes (no throttle blips), then let the machine sit for a few minutes and then rest the dipstick in the hole. On that Rubicon it should be on the top marks after the run time. First thing in the morning the oil level should only be on the bottom of the dipstick (before it gets started) but as it runs that semi dry sump motor pumps the oil where it belongs and then you can get a proper reading. I will also add that that oil back there lubricates the sub transmission gears and if no oil was back there you would know.

That sensor (I agree aftermarket are junk) needs to be preloaded when you install it and after that you need to reinitialize the system. Just making sure everything is getting installed correctly.

Ive had the best luck with a lot of heat and an air hammer.

Welcome to the forum. There are 2 different flash patterns (long and slow) that will give the code. Just a guess it's 2 long and 3 short giving a code 23 which is for the angle sensor system. Did you use an aftermarket angle sensor or one from Honda (OEM)?

Remove the shift motor and then see if you can manually shift it. It's likely the magnets inside the shift motor broke apart locking it.

Sounds like you have a multi meter so testing the stator is pretty easy to do. Chance are it's the regulator/rectifier giving the issues though since they are more common to go bad. The rectifier off of the 450 in that vid should be the same (or close enough to work) so a simple swap will tell you for sure if you want to skip the testing part.

I run 10% in everything (if you test it it's usually only 5% around here) and never had any issues. I consider that little bit of alcohol will collect the moisture and actually help me in the long run. I also never use stabil or any additives even when the machines sit (wood splitter, chain saw, weed eater, chipper, mowers, 4 wheelers and so on) and never have issues. I do try to run them every now and then but sometimes that turns into quite a few months.

Have you checked the vent on the fuel cap to make sure it isn't plugged with anything?

What is the voltage reading when the machine is running and when giving it throttle?

That year isn't as bad as the newer ones but I would still first check the fuel for moisture. Hook a line up to the fuel canister and cycle some into a clear jar. Between that and a spark plug which are the easiest, cheapest things to try then I would move on to the more complex issues.

What year of machine do you have? What issues if any before the no start condition?

I have ran them before with damage like that with no issues. If possible at all I would replace it though. The 86 and 87 Fourtrax (not the D) have the same stator and flywheel.

The bottom mark on the cam sprocket. Did you lay anything flat along the head surface to check that? If the motor was still in the machine it can be hard to get a good view on that mark. It's easy to get them a tooth off especially if the chain is stretched some.

You should initialize the transmission after replacing it. It set everything with the transmission so it works correctly. As far as mileage and hours that is all stored in the meter, not the ECM/CDI.

It might just be the brake panel bearing bad and the play on the differential side is just axle slop (unless you removed the fill cap and felt the gear move). The way money is now days it might just take a little to keep using the machine and give you time to source the upgrade for the future.

It should spin free in one direction and lock in the other. That clutch connects the crankshaft to the other clutch and outputs. When it's running at a lower rpm the clutch weights spring back to disengage the connection. As the rpm rises the weights sling out to connect with the drum to send power to the other clutch pack. It's the reason you don't need a clutch lever with the manual transmission. Right now your shift lever would also be acting like a clutch lever since the centrifugal is locked at all times. Something isn't right in there but it's hard to say what for sure. Wrong 1 way bearing/clutch??

Just heat the cover around the race some with a propane torch and the race will fall out.

I would start with trying to reinitialize it first. The centrifugal clutch should show signs of slipping in every "gear".

It probably just needs brushes. A cheap test light will tell you if your getting power down to the starter while pushing the button. If your getting power, it's a starter problem. If your not then the starter solenoid. FYI, a lot of the newer starters do not have a protective metal cage on the inside so when you tap on the starter you break the internal magnets and possibly ruining a perfectly good starter. The test light is always cheaper than the hammer.