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Page 17 of the FSM

You might find the specific torque values listed in the front of the manual (spec section) or by bolt/nut type. Probably an 8mm flange bolt?

Yes check stator leads, pulse generator for spec. resistance what stator did you use? Oem not available I don’t think

Welcome You changed stator too? Wow that a little bit of work there! where did you get the new OEM CDI? That’s a great pick. Download the service manual if you don’t already have one. do a load test on your battery first. You must have a good battery. then I would inspect all the wiring At switch on, you must have a steady neutral light and your oil light should come on momentarily and then go out? It’s possible for cut wiring to inhibit spark. So I pulled off my fenders and inspected every inch. I found my yellow/red wire from the fuzebox chewed through. of course mine is an 86 A and you have the Revolution Research Line 88D CDI.

That’s a full time 4wd right? No power steering. No fuel gauge. Downright simple except for ES. Wonder if it gets an oil light right away.

Got my collector fashion right here lol

Do you have the service manual? Download it from the folder labeled “service manuals.” Check steering section. Toe in is adjustable but I don’t think camber is adjustable.

Thanks very much. I try to keep it simple but proper. I have to do my other 86, so i will try making a better-sized dowel. I found someone who makes and sells wrench adapters but for Yamahas; i will have to ask them if they’re the same size and Honda. https://www.nicecnc.com/products/steering-stem-bearing-nut-bolt-removal-tool?currency=USD&variant=42250587701478&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_dfr3qP6_AIVp8iUCR3UGAEBEAQYAiABEgK8wPD_BwE

BTW the service manual says to remove the swing arm—no you do not. i unbolted the dash and laid it on the airbox; then unbolted the handlebars and headlight bracket and laid them forward. After I unbolted the steering shaft, i used a picklefork to easily pry the steering pivot assembly from the shaft. The shaft pulled right up and out. i then slid the old bushing off; greased the new one and slipped it on. Then I unbolted the steering shaft stay (with the bearing). It only goes on one way. Such an easy job.

i made a bearing locknut removal tool for $9. steering on my 86 TRX350 quad was a little sloppy so following @shadetree advice i bought a new steering shaft bushing, bearing and seals. couldn’t buy or find the 07GMA-HA70200 steering shaft bearing lock nut removal tool. So i hope to make this easily searchable so others can do their steering shafts. Used a 7/8” x 3” grade-8 bolt and a 7/8-9 castellated nut to make a shop-built lock nut removal tool. I used the castellated nut as the mating piece for the bearing locknut. $8.26 total. The SAE castellated nut was just a bit larger than the ~25mm hex pattern of the locknut. I didn’t buy metric because the hardware store didn’t have any large metric nuts and bolts—plus i only had large SAE wrenches. I’m sure one could use a metric bolt and nut to make a similar tool, without filing—but would have to have a large metric socket. So i used a flat bas-tard file across all the castellated nut faces—at least 150 to 200 strokes each—til it fit into the lock nut. I marked every flat with a marker to make sure i got every flat an equal number of strokes. I rolled the nut over every cycle to ensure a flat grind on each face. And remarked. i used a large stake point chisel and 32 ounce ball-peen hammer to stake each notch section against the bolt. I would’ve preferred to weld them but this worked. i used two 4x4 and four wood clamps to make a vice, then used a large socket to support the steering shaft stay. A 1 3/8” socket with a 3/4 inch drive breaker bar was used on the shop tool to loosen the lock nut, which is secured by red thread locker. i drove the old bearing out with a 1 inch brass drift and put new bearing in with a very large wooden dowel. I used the tool to reinstall the locknut (red threadlocker) and torqued to minimum 37 inch pounds. My steering did tighten up. Not completely BUT now when i turn the bars, the front wheels move without lag. Time to test ride!!

One thing i saw right away on the parts list is a change in tank spacers. so maybe the tank can be fitted by changing another compatible component edit I checked Rocky Mountain atv but they have same part number.

You could plan to perform a fuel system service when weather gets better. I did one on my friend’s 03 450FPE a couple years ago. It had been sitting outside for awhile. drained all the fuel from the tank, inspected and washed it; i also removed and cleaned the petcock and replaced the fuel gauge. The bottom of that plastic tank is textured to trap sediment. He had some tannish colored particles in the tank, which is why I removed and washed it. I sprayed the petcock and gauge bolts with penetrating oil because I’ve seen where stripping the nutplates can ruin these tanks. I washed the tank out with hot soapy water and a long handled bottle brush, then dried it in the sun. after I reinstalled the tank and put fresh fuel in it—the quad seemed to run better, but probably only cuz there was fresh fuel in it. setting valves is easy on this model—only one intake and exhaust per cylinder and one cover lol. Gotta have the tank off to do that anyway

What engine oil are you running? My 86 TRX350 owners manual has a chart showing limit of temp range for 10W-30 is -15C. So yes i agree a heater to keep it above that temp might solve issue. Otherwise maybe the 5W or equivalent might solve during the dead of winter? Good to hear from others operating in your climes

Let’s see how you’re doing this job. Are ya gonna completely remove it and clean the old sealant? Id be careful not to use a metal scraper on that aluminum. i also bought a 1/4” and 3/8” breaker bar so i could get straight over the top of those bolt heads. Spray them with penetrating oil about a week before you try to break them loose. Carefully detorque them with six-point sockets. And number or map the bolts as you pull them out—they’re all different lengths and at least one has a copper washer.

How are you trying to remove it? i see these members using a rope tied to the cv end and to a sledgehammer. Swing the hammer lightly to tug the shaft out.

Check oil in differential. Maybe clutches are dry?

@aggiec05Picture of 86-89 TRX350 Keihin QA03A carb: 4 orings and a starter jet passage plug. i like Shindy and K&L kits but they don’t come with the plug; you have to buy an OEM gasket kit or a set of Gold Wing passage plugs.

Got it out! Needed a bigger brass drift; next time I’ll use a socket. Or proper arbor press Going back together!!!

Has it really been over a year since we talked oil temp sensors? I have not made much progress on this job—six of the original seven are still on my bench. Sent one away to another owner but have heard nothing back about performance.

7/8” x 3” bolt and a 7/8-9 castellated nut. i had to take each flat about 150 strokes across a flat bas-tard file. It fits!! now to stake the threads.

Thanks @Melatv i will go to the hardware store tomorrow. Looks like 1-inch bar stock. Thot i have a hitch nut that could fit. super easy job even tho service manual says to pull swing arm 😂 glad i didn’t do that

Ok I’m changing the steering bushing and bearing right now. Pretty easy except i need the special bearing nut tool. What do you all use? its like 35mm

Found Quad Boss hitch adapter and it works great! Here’s my TRX300 with a bike rack coverted to a fish pole holder

I like those push tubes because the CC-type won’t go high than the diff!