Goober

I raise em up so i can remove the front wheels to bleed the brake lines. i install 3ft lengths of 1/4”? Plastic hose on the bleed nipples. So air doesn’t get sucked back in and so you can monitor fluid color and clarity. i bleed them until the fluid is colorless and clear; if fluid was really old i wait overnight and bleed them again. The more efficient guys can say it’s wasteful but usually after sitting overnight the new fluid somehow picks up some cloudiness

I would use a clean lint free cloth to blot out the fluid in the master cylinder. Then use a plumbers flux brush to dislodge the sediment you’ll see trapped in those settling ribs. Don’t let any of that go downstream if you can help it. Just end up in your wheel cylinders

Exactly what @_Wilson_™ mentioned ^^^ keep in mind this machine requires wet clutch oil; don’t install the oil filter backwards; don’t overtighten the oil drain plug—just snug. carb is likely to have condensation and water in it so loosen the carb bowl drain and let some fresh fuel in you’re likely to have a fuel leak from the carb, so be ready to close the petcock!!! did you download the service manual from the forum folder?

I would sell this 86 TRX350A with manual lift plow. Thought about putting on fleabay. 1986 Honda Fourtrax TRX350A. Restored with 100% OEM parts to OEM specs. Acid washed, painted fuel tank, rebuilt petcock, replaced fuel filter and hoses with OEM. New OEM pump. Rebuilt OEM carb, new choke valve, OEM fuel and vent hoses. New choke cable. Rebuilt stator, new CDI, new ignition switch. All harnesses inspected and connectors cleaned. Rebuilt oil temp sensor; no problems with fan controller; fan comes on ~220F. New cam chain and 1 exhaust valve. Has OEM optional Cobra glass pack muffler. Exhaust and muffler Stripped and repainted w 2000F paint. New header gasket, OEM air filter. Original air filter cage. Brakes serviced, new master cylinder, wheel cylinders rebuilt. Replaced steering tie rod ends, comes with steering head bearing and bushes. Professionally recovered OEM seat, tool bag, Honda service manual. Stock wheels with ITP Mud Lite AT. Complete service as listed in manual. Bill of Sale only (no title) Optional Hondaline rear cooler carrier and mount kit for Cycle Country, Kolpin, and KFI snow plow. Known Flaws: rear fender cracked above bumper mount. Areas of surface rust were coated with rust reformer and paint. Wheel, axle and swing arm bearings have not been greased. No key to Fork lock. Slight oil leak at valve adjustment cover (bolt thread stripped). Only one part known to be missing (cable strap 90668-671-003) securing ignition harness to fan cowl.

2008 Foreman TRX500FPM (power steering with foot shift) in camo

Use the oem parts finder at Rocky Mountain atv and Partzilla or search the part number on Fleabay

Yep weather resistant plug. you can wire anything to the plug. Spotlight, light bar, tunes.

If no oil light or steady oil light or flickering oil light I’d say FCU. As a diagnostic i heat mine in an oven for 3 hours at 200F. This usually revives them long enough to get a new OEM AKATV heats them in an oven for 5-7 minutes at 450F and says this is Usually successful fan should come on after engine gets to 212F;100C. Depending on rate of heating you might get to 220F before fan comes on. Much over that and you’re getting out of spec

TRX350A carb; Keihin QA03A

Roger that, the pdf version doesn’t have good copy on the wiring schematic is all. While ya got it up on stands, change the diff oil and brake fluid.

I would buy this service manual https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-1986-1987-TRX350-FOURTRAX-87-89-TRX350D-Factory-Service-Manual-/354257084965?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

You’ll get er up and running again! while you got the right side cover off, best to clean the oil screen and check cam chain slack. you’ll also want to buy new side cover gaskets. Don’t use sealant. Except maybe a couple small drops of Hondabond to stick the gaskets into alignment with the case cover holes

I like how you have it on a stand so you can get a good look at it. i saw you moving the shifter talking about reverse gear and want to make sure you know: to get into reverse, Keep in mind you have to push the reverse lock button so the reverse lock lever can actuate the reverse lockout before you can actually shift into reverse.

Here’s short video of brass i am practicing on; need to fire the shoulder better. IMG_8745.MOV

How do you anneal? I bought an Ugly Annealer. On un-annealed cases, my friend is getting about 4 firings on belted magnum cases. I thot annealing could extend the use of these cases. I’m finding that the greater value might instead be in making the cases easier to resize. Is this why you do it?

Do you reloaders anneal your cases?

Here’s better pic of pink

And check the pink connector for power while your moving the connector

Then next i would check that light blue power wire connector. Maybe slightly bend the pins so the connection is improved

There should be a splice to the green ground in that 4/wire FCU harness. Maybe when you pull on it, it reestablishes that connection. I would try following that ground wire back to the main harness to see if i could find the splice. Then pinch that area to see if i got same intermittent fan

Starter might be worn needing replacement. try adjusting clutch for the shifting problem

Does this Rancher meter qualify as rare @AKATV?😁 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-OEM-Speedo-Combo-Meter-2000-2005-TRX350FM-Manual-Rancher-4X4-37200-HN5-671-/275428565724?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

Are you still looking @TexRed?

CDI are available. But maybe you could buy one and do proper fixes on the bare wires while you’re waiting on parts.

read the primary (.1 to .2 ohms at 68F—if your temperature is very high, you might get a very low reading), and read the secondary with (7.5 to 10.8 KOhm at 68F) and without the spark plug cap (3.7 to 4.5 KOhm at 68F)