Goober

As of late March We were told Honda hadn’t shipped any Pioneer 700 or 520. Dealer didn’t even get a price list until late February.

Well I wanted a 2022 Honda 520 for a shop quad. I wanted simple! No power steering, doors, glass. Well aint none available! Long story short, got a Ranger EV. It runs just as good as our 08 Ranger 500, but quiet! I mean like a 4x4 golf cart!! I’d like to have one for a personal hunting rig! It has a 35-40 mile range. probably enough to find trouble but not enough for a return trip!

Here’s a good looking tank for ya

I like the idea to paint if they will hold paint. I would def powder coat the wheels to a silver. But that would run over $200.

Thanks for the pic. Yes, bit of a project. You ay it was your Dad’s? Runs OK? whats that big bar attached to the rear carrier? I didn’t see any big cracks but with all the sun damage I’m sure they’re brittle. If not i would remove the fenders and try some plastic polish like Novus #2 and a buffer. Before you start wrenching on it, spray every nut and bolt with Deep Creep. Use your best 6 point sockets and cross-point bits to remove. put hardware you remove into ziplock bags with cards labeling what they go to. Each time you remove a single part, the hardware goes into a separate bag. mainly I’d be patient—looking for fenders—and then wrenching on it. Maybe you’ll be able to find that rare set of Cosmic Grey OEM fenders

Check the OEM parts finder at Rocky Mountain atv and Partzilla. You can search by your VIN to ensure you get correct parts. You can then cross reference and or search the part numbers you need to other models. here’s my 93 FW ready for some catfishing!

Not much at Power Sports Nation. https://www.powersportsnation.com/used-parts.html?search=&year=1988&make=Honda&model=FourTrax 300&order=final_price&dir=desc&category=Brands > Honda&page=3 I don’t think 2WD/4WD front fenders are interchangeable

Here’s a Left one? https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Honda-1988-1995-TRX300-Splash-Guard-L-61866-HC4-000ZA-/401395161895?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

Thanks for your interest. I don’t share my personal contact info. the community here can answer all your questions.

I like the look of the maier fenders, but i think you’ll lose the convenience of the toolbox. as for the mud guards, the 96-00 “bumpy” mud guards aren’t an exact fit—you’ll need to drill new fastener holes in the fender. NOS oem fender guards are available for ~$120 free shipping. my recommendation would be to get an OEM set new or used. these are getting harder to find but they are available. Cost depends on shipping.

I have 40 yo Craftsman 16 inch. Lasts forever if ya don’t use em LOLs. No, blessed FIL (RIP) put an 18 inch bar and chain on it. I put it back original and will try to get some more work out of it.

Didn’t buy an OEM solenoid, and either wired it improperly or the solenoid poles are different than OEM. why did you replace the solenoid? go to the OEM parts finder at Rocky Mountain atv and Partzilla. Only buy OEM parts

I have also had good luck with K&L. They have different sized kits offering screws and passage plugs. I bought a couple off fleabay for $2. Labeled Made in Japan

Sometimes that primer plunger seal breaks up and flushes more chunks in the bowl

I haven’t tried the high temp/short duration heating. Like akatv said a last ditch effort, so instead of jumping into the high temp option, I’d like to recommend escalating in the following order so as to first properly diagnose the issue. 1. remove the module and clean the contacts. Use contact cleaner and a plumber’s flux brush. Get all the dirt from inside and outside the connector. Inspect the subharness and module connectors for loose pins and exposed wires. Lube contacts and backshell with permatex dielectric grease. Reinstall and check operation. 2. Heat module with hair dryer. Reinstall while warm to see if the module is revived. 3. Heat in oven 200F for at least 3 hours. Connector side up. It will smell a bit but should not melt anything. Keep in mind oven temps vary due to controller heating cycles. Ovens set at 200F frequently cycle from 180F to 220F. Let cool completely before you reinstall. I got six months out of my FCUs this way so now I know the higher temp might offer a permanent solution. 4. Bake in oven at 450F for xx minutes on the middle rack?. 5-7 might do it.

How bout posting a pic of the solenoid wiring? Unlikely wires are improperly connected. Don’t be moving wires around unless you know exactly what you’re doing. i would put all the OEM stuff (presuming it was all OEM); let’s go back and start over. check your fuzes.

The other members can guide you better on the display question. My thot is ES displays are no longer available unless you search the OEM part number on fleabay and get lucky. so if your quad runs and shifts, I’d be happy for now and get on with service items. @AKATV might be able to fix your display. I’ve done the following on my early 450S—i think the ES is similar in the it has separate CDI and FCU: Try this heating method to diagnose your FCU. Heat FCU, connector side up, in an oven 200F for 3 hours. Others have used a hair dryer. Slight heating can allow the circuitry to expand and reestablish a broken circuit. The oven trick might get you 3-6 months. Use contact cleaner, plumbers flux brushes and permatex dielectric grease to clean and lube the connectors and backshells before u reinstall To remove your FCU—there are two modules secured to the front of the frame with a rubber hanger. it’s the one on the driver’s left (sitting in seat). Connected to two subharnesses. Each connector has two ears—be patient and reach up in there with both hands—lightly pry the ears slightly outward with two fingers and push out on the subharness connector with your remaining digits. if you can’t reach it you may have to remove the front fender

No problem. Sounds like a little bit of a project. I think we can help you along. check the OEM parts finders at Rocky Mountain atv and Partzilla. They have good prices, free shipping and great Illustrated Parts Breakdowns

New: you have the kill switch in run? The service manual has diagnostics for this switch Gotta use OEM parts, because aftermarket switches and modules can add to confusion. best move is to buy a printed service manual or get a good picture of the schematic. otherwise, buying a replacement OEM ignition switch not a terrible idea but probably not the issue. does it have a (recoil) pull starter?

Did you contact seller? Maybe there’s a little bug he knows how to deal with. You’re going to need a Honda service manual —preferably printed or a good picture of the wiring diagram. did you put in all OEM parts? If were me I’d put all the OEM parts back in it and start over.

Seek the OEM parts finder at Rocky Mountain atv and Partzilla. They should have an FCU for your model. Pretty common for the temp sensors to be out of spec so you may want to get one of those as well.

Yes please download the service manual in the forum folder labeled manuals. you need to perform the oil cooling system diagnostics tests to check fan operation, sensor resistivity, fan control unit and wiring. usually when you switch on, the neutral light will come on steady and the oil light will come on momentarily and then go out. an oil light that stays on without fan running indicates a failed fan control unit. If the sensor or wiring is shorted then the fan and oil light usually both come on. you could also have a failed fan so run the diagnostics—grounding the sensor lead you’ll see pretty quick if fan runs.

Glad he showing respect by not offering less without seeing it. Your work and track record speaks well. if he followed one of your build threads, he’d know you’re not unreasonable on price.

Check to make the tank is clean and …see the nut on the bottom of this petcock? There’s a screen in there!

Check the jets are spec, the main needle clip is set on the third station and there are no holes in the piston valve rubber. Make sure the rubber is aligned properly