Goober

Kenda bear claws very long lasting. Tread pattern great on turf, gravel and pavement. Resists cactus real well

I definitely would drain/flush those drive systems. While Changing all those filters, consider reaming and flushing every line. I was the money man on a solvent distillation system repair job; the pressure vessel pump kept getting fouled by biosolids. I found the outside condenser reservoir cap missing and solvent contaminated. They replaced the solvent and kept getting contamination because they didn’t clean anything. I didn’t like the looks of the galvanized lines either so didn’t push the reaming. had them clean the reservoir, replace the galvy with stainless, install new filters and solvent. As you mentioned safely—making sure that heavy thing is blocked up solid. You can get very long wire-handled nylon pipe brushes in different diameter sizes. Some are called beer or kegging line brushes, CPAP or feeding tube brushes

I have two 2011 Grizzly 350 2WD and a 03 Kodiak 400 at work. Pro: very simple machine; carriers, fenders seem easy to source compared to Honda. single left hand shifter lever, F, N, R. simple four light dash panel. Con: I don’t like the parking brake lever. The rear brakes are terrible. Fuel tank is really high up on the frame. Easy to break stuff on this thing. Batteries are very narrow and hard to source (had to buy Moose).

I use a Harley-Davidson service lift I bought used for $75. I have clearance problems with the crank on footwell equipped models—so carefully consider the angle of the crank or pump handle.

pull the valve cover and set the valves. You can check for oil and burned valves at this time. Don’t run the engine anymore until you figure this out. is only your exhaust extremely hot or is the valve cover or head getting hot too? check for obstructions in exhaust Check valve clearance. Valves may be too tight. too rich, valves loose you may also be igniting fuel in the exhaust pipe. check compression timing is off (timing chain) hooboy nice pic @Fishfiles detonation blowing past the rings into the crank would explain the fuely oil

Have you set the valves? I think you can check oil flow by cycling the engine to see if it’s getting to the head.

TRX400 has pretty low clearance to begin with and not much clearance for taller tires. Factor in the age of the suspension—i left my work 98 400 on stock rubber. In fact i may take it out today!

Lol Mrs Goober already pinned back my ears on that stuff.

Where the beer is warm, the gambling is whether to start another atv rebuild and the advice is on wimmin is how to explain why you buy and sell a bunch of parts but she never sees that money back.

Rocky Mountain atv has a new LR 80221-HC4-690ZA for $120 and RR 80220-HC4-690ZA is listed for $123 but not shown in stock. fleabay NOS for $120 plus SH https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-HONDA-RIGHT-REAR-MUD-GUARD-1990-1995-TRX300-FOURTRAX-FENDER-FLAP-/165139045052?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0 i have no idea what one means by decent price. Five years ago they were $99; today for $120. Sounds decent to me, especially if you can buy with free shipping

Found a service manual yet? If not, check fleabay or order directly from your local Honda shop. Recommend starting a new thread for you and your rig. what maintenance experience do you have? Review the owners and service manuals and perform the periodic maintenance items you feel comfortable with. Oil and filter—wet clutch oil only, don’t install the filter backwards, use a crush washer on the drain plug and only snug the bolt—don’t overtighten or you’ll crack the case! clean and oil the air filter change brake fluid

How’s your steering Duck? I have slop in the steering on both my 86s. After talking with Shadetree last fall I bought two steering shaft bearings and bushes-they had 4, but have gotten more in since then. i’d like to change the steering pivot bushes if they’re bad, but these NLA; maybe i can have the local machine shop make them. also had some clicking in the driveline but found my lug nuts weren’t tight, so hope that’s the cause! I’ll know when the trails open up next month. hope you’re able to match up the keys to a steering lock.

My other thot is your petcock is bad. The petcock can become clogged or the seal can slip, preventing fuel flow. here’s what the back side of the petcock looks like so you can inspect it. See it has a manifold and a lever with a U-shaped channel—if you can see the channel then the seal hasn’t slipped off the mounts.

Clogged fuel filter—replace w OEM Failing fuel pump—replace w OEM clogged fuel tank suction lines—remove petcock and clear lines with weedwacker line (or a piece of cable and a drill — CAREFULLY—see below. do fuel flow test! Your fuel tank may have two ~3mm ID x 12” suction tubes—basket screens on the end. Don’t pierce the basket screens. also careful with the molded fuel lines! These are easy to tear, NLA and hard to refit with straight hose

There is a fuel flow test in the manual

That air filter is pretty dirty. i don’t like spraying carb cleaner on stuff sometimes it just mobilizes dirt. download the service manual here. Take off the air filter and spray a shot of start fluid into the carb. Will the engine sputter? whats that ticking? Your fuel pump? It sounds bad.

Yep try to tighten the cables and shoe adjusters to try and pull the shoes inward. Use the front inspection holes—each front hub has two alignment screws and two adjusters. Make sure you’re removing those alignment screws.

I recommend downloading the Honda service manual and making sure you have the operators manual. I think the most common problems are caused by owners. Using wrong engine oil, installing the oil filter backwards, running with bad battery and not running it enough to prevent deposits in the carb.

If you have a local battery shop they might be able to rebuild it for you~$75 plus parts. They could install your OEM parts, replace the bushings and do any machining.

Lots of choices in .308 and .223 these days. ammo prices about $35 to $60 a box for rifle. remington tipped corelokt about the lowest price; federal premium about $60. i saw several boxes of .30 carbine the other day. Gone this week

Is there a particular reason you want LEDs for main bulbs instead of accessory lights? LEDs can be obnoxiously bright—nobody’s gonna wanna ride in front of you. And you might have to modify mounting points and connections. Maybe get the OEM lights working? No modifications. Less costly. Might be easier to sell this one with OEM stuff.

April Fool’s joke? I put on my glasses and still couldn’t get focused on your pic! lol jk no I couldn’t tell what you mean. Better pic, maybe point out which you mean?

I use BelRay 80W-90 Hypoid when I can get it; 80W-140 if they don’t have the 90. All the Honda teams were using it. And PJ-1 for the drive chain if ya have one but put it on while the chain is warm not cold!😁

Which harness is cut? The stator subharness or the main? Sub might be easier to scavenge from another stator but the main might be harder to find