Goober

Sorry code “sacrifice” when buying two parts

Yup @Fishfiles I don’t think you’ll find it cheaper. get the bends out, fit it to the quad. Smooth out the finish spray with Rustoleum rust converter, then hit it with black semigloss.

No this is for a TRX300 I don’t think you’ll get it to fit I like the one from power sports nation. 20% off with free shipping means you’ll get it for $148 plus $10 tax https://www.powersportsnation.com/honda-fourtrax-foreman-350-d-86-rack-front-34787.html you will need some bolts and spacers to get it fitted properly. I can help with info

Yeah absolutely that’s why I asked @TexRed how much he expected to give for one or both! A $150 each offer would be an attention getter. $200 each, someone would post one up. Offer $400 and shipping i might think about taking one of mine off lol!!!

Here’s the thread @TexRed kinda the home for rare stuff

Yup the 86 Fourtrax was barebones and came just as Texred has. Hondaline offered accessories tho. I have a brochure that shows them. Two front and rear Carriers, accessory bumper, speedo kit, spotlamp, hourmeter, lamp guards, flag, mudguards. I got them all but the toolbox. I collected that stuff for about ten years and sold a bunch of it last year.

Good looking Fisher Cat; heard my buds friend called in a hungry fisher while turkey hunting. Neither were happy with the encounter but only one survived it!

Looky here @TexRed save 20% at power sports nation

Here’s another from power sports nation also mislabeled https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Fourtrax-Foreman-350-D-86-Rack-Front-34787-/304386515181?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0 might sound pricey but shipping will cost $60-$80.

@TexRedHere’s a front one for sale mislabeled for a later quad https://www.ebay.com/itm/1988-HONDA-FOURTRAX-300-4WD-FRONT-RACK-/124878744565?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

Here’s detail on the rear cooler carrier. it has a stylized logo on the rack. what are you looking to give for these racks?

Welcome! There’s a forum folder called service manuals. Check that out and consider getting a printed manual so you have a readable wiring schematic. there’s another new member here selling an 86. Check out the rear rack on it—that is the other rack that was available. Here’s a pic of details for the front cooler carrier by Cambridge Metal and Plastics.

I bought one of the QuadBoss ball mount converters —looks just like yours. I’m using it to mount an old Yakima ROC bike rack. I will convert it to a fishing rod and net holder for my TRX300, like i made for my Can Am. I used black PVC drain pipe. But i want to change the design to accommodate smaller rods and rod holders i have a third bike rack, so I ordered another converter for it. I want to make three fishing quads; I would consider selling a quad to my fishing friends. But

Original tires; got the fuel petcock lever. I’d definitely change the brake fluid cuz you’re gonna have a tough time finding cylinder rebuild kits. id drain the fuel tank too. There’s a bolt on the bottom of the tank. The suction lines cant completely scavenge the bottm

All original hey start with a reserve of $5K you can always come down. Post it up on fleabay see who salutes. i think with plow and everything probably $3500 is on the high side, considering you can’t get many parts from Honda. But with nothing on the floor….

Very good @Popa Fry. I saw ya posted over there and typically no one responds or they give half-assed advice. Serious wrenchers over here. Keep us updated PF!

Keep in mind when you transport it, don’t tie it down by the carriers. Use good ratchet straps, like 1.5 to 2 inches, and fasten to the frame. Frame won’t bend but carriers only take 40-50 lbs. i use Harley Davidson ratchet straps with soft hooks.

Welcome! Download the service manual from the folder labeled “manuals.”

No but the starter switch could be stuck. Really have to get into the schematic to see, but basically there are two circuits. The low amp ignition circuit is used to energize the high amp starter motor. ok, when you turn the ignition key, you’re energizing a portion of the ignition circuit. The starter circuit is completed only by first pushing the starter button. so, I would disconnect the starter first—at the solenoid. Find the big wire coming off the starter, follow it up to the solenoid, and disconnect it. will make it easier to find out what is causing the solenoid to become energized when the master switch is on. If you’re hearing a loud click from the solenoid as soon as you turn the key, then you’ll know something’s wrong. then power off. You’re gonna have to remove the front fender to check for a short in the left hand multi switch. Follow the ignition circuit diagnostics—should be chapter 20 or thereabouts

Ranger EV made in Huntsville Alabama from what I’ve found

Other thing that will cause leak: you didn’t use a rebuild kit. Are you sure the carb bowl seal and drain screw seal aren’t leaking? If the overflow stem into bowl is cracked that will also cause leak out carb drain

What’s the history? Been sitting a long time? oxidation on that brass seat. Floats can deform after sitting a long time but not usually

It’s possible to weld it but might be less expensive to buy a used one.

The manual says to look carefully for and avoid scratches. the floats should be nonadjustable. i would use a cotton swab wetted with carb cleaner to ensure the seat is clean. did you use a Honda float valve? careful! Those seats are not replaceable! it is possible you need a new float. I recommend Honda, Shindy or K&L float valves.

If you want to completely remove the rust, i use cleaning vinegar and BBs. Cleaning vinegar is usually a little higher acidity. My tank looked like yours and had a rubber glove, a screwdriver and something else in there. you may not be able to do this until you get the holes sealed: i remove tank cap and petcock. i pour in a pound of BBs and 2/3s volume of the tank with vinegar. Then i seal up the tank, wrap it in bubble wrap, then put it in a cardboard box, and then wedge the box in my cement mixer. i run the cement mixer for 3 hours, about halfway thru i reposition the tank so BBs work a different area. The BBs loosen the rust flakes and polish the tank interior. You can remove the BBs with a magnet. I rinse the cleaned tank with water that has the pH adjusted high using spa chemicals—otherwise the tank surface will get flash rust. Then i dry with a hair dryer but not so hot that it will discolor the paint. Hot air goes in tank and comes out petcock. so if you still have fuel vapors in your tank, using a hair dryer could ignite them!! Should be able to successfully apply the POR 15 sealant after tank is cleaned. I had no holes but had to repaint my tank anyway. Here’s my tank after two washings. Then i rinse out the tank with some gasoline to flush any trace of spa chemicals or other fines.