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Tim-ANC

2000 Ford F150

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I went to the link you posted , read some of the first page and it looks long , seems your 5.4 locked up from lack of oil , where you at with it now 

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All i know about them is anything with a triton motor is garbage. Worst designed engine i have ever had the dis-pleasure of working on. The common failure list is a mile long. Simply changing the two part spark plugs is an 8 hour process. Who would ever do such a thing? My brothers 5.4 in his f150 was a better boat anchor than anything else. Just my opinion of course. No dis-respect meant at all.

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Like they said, pull the plugs and un bolt the torque converter  bolts to make sure it wasn't the trans. How much oil did you put back in it?

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I actually replaced the engine with a junk yard motor. The original is completely seized. Engine runs strong but, it's super rich, have no coolant temp indication, idles high, no speed indication, low oil pressure light. Changed the temp and speed sensors but still the same. Feels like a wiring problem but I can't find it yet.

 

Yeah, this thing is a pain to work on. But I'm a Ford guy. Same reason I have brown eyes and root for the Seahawks. It's genetic.

 

@bcsman thanks for the link. I'll check that out. And thanks to all for the replys.

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Very possible if the pcm doesn't see a correct reading for coolant temp, it will default to dump fuel in. I'm a GM guy and that is how they do. Also may cause the high idle since the idle will be raised when the Temps are colder.

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 my xj jeep acted the same way as @Chevymec described , ended up being a loose coolant sensor plug.. 

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Posted (edited)

Chevy is right. Supposed to pour on the fuel until the engine is warm.

 

This thing doesn't have a coolant temp sensor but rather a Cylinder Head Temp sensor. Put a new one in yesterday and checked wiring. The btch is it's located under the intake manifold so that took all day. After running it, the scanner still faults that among other things. Next, I'm going to do a thorough wiring check from PCM connector to engine components and grounds. 

 

I've had it a shop already but they couldn't figure out. In fairness to them, they were confident they could find the problem eventually but I just put it in for evaluation. Its only worth $3500 and I wasn't going pay 20 hours of shop rate on it.

Edited by Tim-ANC

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i agree, it really sounds like a wire short, did this ever happen with older engine before it locked up ? might have pinched the wire harness while putting the new to you motor in. 

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No I did not have these problems before. Yes, that is quite possible. Which is one of the reasons I pulled the manifold so I could look behind there at the bell housing mating point where the harness crosses over. I didn't see anything unusual but visibility access was still poor using a mirror. All the codes I'm getting seem to run through that bundle. I need to figure a better way to get eyes on it.

 

From yesterdays run codes below. The EGR problem is new. I went back to the junk yard to get the original manifold and throttle body off the core. Didn't notice that they had bent the EGR valve until I went to install. So I need to go back an get the other one. I'll try to get the harness off that engine too. I used my original harness because it was in better shape. Both harnesses were identical. 

 

 

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Thanks boys, I posted there today. Already getting some good feedback 

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Posted (edited)

good deal,  Bcs turned me onto arbor site, great site till things went south, (hopefully sorted soon) what have you learned so far ? I've  been thinking about this issue, something tells me it has to be a wire harness issue, this junk yard engine you swopped out to, does have a coolant thermostat right ? 

 

the reason i bring this up is because, my idiot ex step father had used a jeep almost the same model as mine 4.0 6 banger, and took the thermo out, and had kind of the same issue, high rpm, and ran rich, asked me what i though, i asked him what changes had he done, so after he told me, i stuck a new oem thermostat in it, and cured. 

Edited by _Wilson_™

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Started ripping the harness today. Need to pull the manifold agian to get to the back of the engine. I'm getting pretty efficient at that now 😆 Hoping to find it pinched or burnt.

 

The junk yard engine was identical. No ECT sensor. I compared both harnesses and they were identical too and elected to use the original since it looked to be in better shape.

 

Thread at site @bcsman hooked me up with.

https://www.f150forum.com/f6/2000-f150-5-4-running-rich-496777/#post6873420

 

 

20201218_032236.jpg

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Thats a nice looking truck. i dont know how the weather affects those trucks, where your at, but in ky, most get rotted, underneath under the doors, from the front tires, all the way to the back tires an beyond. more under coating or something is needed there.

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it's not really the weather, but rather the salt they use in the roads during the winter time, that eats the bed up, and not keep the body drains clear, should be drain at the bottom of the doors, get plugged with mud and dust, etc, and moisture just has no place to go, some are even plugged from the factory. 

image.jpg

image.jpg

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Posted (edited)

it's not just that, i got an 85 ford ranger, that has less rust on it, i bought in 99. some day i'll fix it up. {CCR moment].

those models have a tendency to rust. thin metal or something, IDK, just is. runs parallel with the Triton motor.

Edited by LedFTed

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Tim-ANC said:

Started ripping the harness today. Need to pull the manifold agian to get to the back of the engine. I'm getting pretty efficient at that now 😆 Hoping to find it pinched or burnt.

 

be sure to post pics, wire harness issues alway get my attention, granted, most times it's the idiots who dare to hack into them, not knowing what there doing, haha. at the bike shop we called that job security ;)

Edited by _Wilson_™
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Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, bcsman said:

Guess us Michigan guys use this forum, I posted the same link a few posts up ^^^^^

Ooops sorry I missed that.  It’s a pretty good forum. 

Edited by 01RUBY500

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6 hours ago, LedFTed said:

it's not just that, i got an 85 ford ranger, that has less rust on it, i bought in 99. some day i'll fix it up. {CCR moment].

those models have a tendency to rust. thin metal or something, IDK, just is. runs parallel with the Triton motor.

 

no, it's not only that it's also the crud that collects up in the fender wells that never gets washed out. and the thickness / quality of metal used has dropped over the years, as they build vihicles like they used to, that's why some of the older trucks cars never seem to rust out. also why some toyota box formed frames rust out in the lower spots where the mud water settles, when i got my 81 diesel, i had to put a frame under it due to that fact, same happens with honda atvs when  frame drains plug up, another reason i stay out of deep mud, and water. 

image.jpg

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No problem. Some of the best threads are off topic. 😆

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