Melatv 792 Posted June 20, 2021 8 hours ago, shadetree said: ok, now take the ecm, and angle sensor, and install them on the 2001 atv, does it still shift ?, if it does not ?, then one of these parts is bad !. ???? parts are good on one bike -- then put the same parts on other bike -- if it does not shift, then one one of these parts is bad ???? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shadetree 5,889 Posted June 20, 2021 6 hours ago, Melatv said: ???? parts are good on one bike -- then put the same parts on other bike -- if it does not shift, then one one of these parts is bad ???? he say's he can take parts from his non-shifting 450, install them on the atv that will shift, so i am telling him this to see if the wire harness is bad. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fishfiles 20,145 Posted June 20, 2021 Check the vin# to be sure what year you do have ... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted June 21, 2021 On the vin which number tells the year? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted June 21, 2021 Anybody got any more suggestions or are we slowly moving toward a permanent manual shifter ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,049 Posted June 21, 2021 Try this, with everything plugged back in, battery fully charged, key off. Depress both the UP and DOWN shift switches on the handle bar. Turn the key on and release both shift switches immediately after you turn the key on. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted June 21, 2021 I did what you said to do 4-5 times nothing happened when I tried to shift. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,049 Posted June 21, 2021 That ECM reset procedure is undocumented but I hoped it would be worth an attempt. A fellow member discovered it a while back: Lets go back to the angle sensor but this time add a different test. Key off, everything plugged in, unplug the 16p ECM connector. Measure resistance between the Black/Red and Blue/Green inside the 16p ECM connector. Write that figure down and post it here. These next two are difficult for one person to do.... Manually shift the transmission up into 1st gear and continue to hold all of the way up on your shift wrench without allowing the spring tension in the shift shaft to move your wrench back down. While you are holding your shift wrench all of the way up into 1st gear, measure resistance between the Blue/Green and Yellow/Blue inside the 16p ECM connector. Write that figure down and post it here. Allow your shift wrench to return under spring tension. The transmission is in 1st gear now. Manually shift the transmission down into neutral and hold all of the way down on your shift wrench without allowing the spring tension in the shift shaft to move your wrench back up. While you are holding your shift wrench all of the way down into neutral, measure resistance between the Blue/Green and Yellow/Blue inside the 16p ECM connector. Write that figure down and post it here. EDITED TO CORRECT: The service manual is in error with this test. The above procedure is correct. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fishfiles 20,145 Posted June 21, 2021 2 hours ago, Bossdaddy said: Anybody got any more suggestions or are we slowly moving toward a permanent manual shifter ? I brought up vin # , which is right , but also you have no idea what the previous owner done , maybe the wiring harness was changed and they installed a 450S or FM , or a 2nd gen ES wiring harness onto that bike , or maybe the wiring harness or pin connectors are damaged , you never know , also seen where people go over the same thing over and over and in the end it was something that was over looked , one of our members Koolaid was a perfect example of that Was telling Shade yesterday , if it were me , it is all about 99 , $99 for a by-pass harness or $.99 for a For Sale sign ---- a parody of a song I like goes , " I got 99 problems but a ES ain't one " Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,049 Posted June 21, 2021 I have never lost to a Honda ES failure. I ain't gonna lose to this one either unless Bossdaddy gives up. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fishfiles 20,145 Posted June 21, 2021 Just now, retro said: I have never lost to a Honda ES failure. I ain't gonna lose to this one either unless Bossdaddy gives up. Well there is always a first for everything , LOL , maybe we should kiddy up some gas and dinner money and you do a road trip , like Shade did with KoolAid , eh !!! --- I'll donate again to solve this problem ---- LOL 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,049 Posted June 21, 2021 I would enjoy that but I cannot leave home right now because I'm buried in work. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted June 21, 2021 R/b to b/g reads 5.27 I’ve got some help coming going to be a few minutes. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted June 22, 2021 In first holding 2.03 neutral holding 4.25 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,049 Posted June 22, 2021 OK, the angle sensor tests good and the 3 sensor wires in the harness are good, else the multimeter would have shown an open. Those test results: 2.03 (step 2 measurement) divided by 5.27 (step one measurement) = 0.385199240987 (meets specification of less than 0.4) 4.25 (step 3) divided by 5.27 (step one) = 0.806451612903 (meets specification of greater than 0.6) Unplug the ignition CDI module 4p connector. Measure resistance between the Blue/Yellow inside the 16p shift ECM connector and frame ground. Post that measurement here. Plug the CDI back in. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,049 Posted June 22, 2021 Next, turn key on and measure DC volts between the Blue/Green inside the 16p ECM connector and frame ground. Post that measurement here. EDIT: Step 2: Clip a test light to frame ground and probe the Blue/Green inside the 16p ECM connector. The test light should light up bright. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted June 22, 2021 CDI unplugged b/g to ground 0.33 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,049 Posted June 22, 2021 Thanks, I will compare your measurement to my spare pulse gen. I added a couple more tests above. I just edited the last one to include a test light check. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted June 22, 2021 I get no dc volts from b/g to ground with handlebar switch disconnected and key on. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,049 Posted June 22, 2021 18 minutes ago, Bossdaddy said: CDI unplugged b/g to ground 0.33 Wrong wire, this should be resistance between Blue/Yellow and frame ground. Just now, Bossdaddy said: I get no dc volts from b/g to ground with handlebar switch disconnected and key on. I edited my post above.... refresh the page so you can read my edits. Key off, plug the handlebar switches back in. Key on, measure DC volts again, then use a test light as explained Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted June 22, 2021 B/y to ground 0.33 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,049 Posted June 22, 2021 Just now, Bossdaddy said: B/y to ground 0.33 Which resistance scale mode are you using? You want to be measuring ohms. My pulse gen measures 321 ohms so yours should measure pretty close to mine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites