shadetree

ok..timing sounds good then.

just use the line under the T mark, middle of sight hole, line on starter cage, lined up to stamped arrow behind the starter cage line on tab. KEEP IN MIND !!!!, JUST BECAUSE THESE TWO LINE UP ?, DOES NOT MEAN THE TIMING MARKS ON THE CAM SPROCKET ARE LINED UP !!!, if the cam chain jumped time from a stretched cam chain ?, this will throw the valves off when it comes time for the compression stroke in the cylinder. when i build an engine from scratch ?, i make sure to have all 3 timing marks line up, THEY MUST LINE UP IN ORDER FOR THE ENGINE TO RUN..that is..if you know you have a good piston in it ?..lol.

you really don't line up the T mark, you line up the line in sight hole, and the line to arrow at back of motor. start at back. then glance in sight hole, the line under the T mark should line up to the line in the sight hole threads.

you gonna work for free ?..if so..we'll barter our advice for your ac work..lol.

i knew about the bread trick, just never tried it..lol. i went with drilling a hole, then from back side, couple taps with my hammer, and drift punch, it came right out.

update: i'm down to one bearing stuck in the center case, need a blind bearing puller tool to yank it out, and i do not have this tool !..lol. i could drill two small holes on the outside of the case, then use a drift punch to hammer the bearing out ?, but i'd rather not do this, i have no idea why honda made this bearing/case area this way where you could not hammer it out ?, then again..they do the very same crap with the needle bearing on the rear diff !. i'm not sure what it would hurt to drill holes in the case, hammer the bearing out ?, but maybe his area is not suppose to have oil flowing through it , i do not know ??. my bud is trying to locate his blind bearing tool, i'll wait to hear from him. i see i can get a blind bearing tool set from harbor freight ?, but i'd hate to spend over 70 bucks for a tool set i may or may not ever use anytime soon ?..lol. i'll keep everyone up to date on how this turns out.

ok, first: the throttle cable sits down through the carb cap once sticking through the cap, slide the spring with the black sealing washer over the cable first, with the cable sticking down through the spring, compress the spring where the cable is long, as you are poking the spring and cable down through the slider, the slider has a slot running down the outside edge, keep the spring inside the slider, but make sure the cable is running down the outside of the slider slot, once the cable is all the way down the slider slot ?, wrap it under the bottom of the slider where it fits in the hole on the bottom of the slider, walla, done. now ease the slider down into the carb, making sure the slot on the side of the slider lines up with the tang inside the carb slider throat, it will only go down one way !. the bottom of the slider is angled, it must face the idle screw once it bottoms out, tighten down the cap, walla..done !..

lol..i've ditched the 120v, 90 amp welder, and got this holbart welder, and as long as what i welds stays together ?..i don't give a rats behind what it looks like ?..lol.

yeah..with mig..you do need gas for stainless steel. i don't see much stainless steel with atv's from the factory ?..lol. so i use my mig with flux core.

lol..i wasn't saying you were the one ?..i was just saying i like mig welding...i know you know what the plus's of it is !..lol.

got a couple bearings ordered from partzilla, rmatv did not have them for the final shaft ?, they had one of them, but not both, went ahead and ordered them from partzilla ( sigh ..really hate those folks with their high prices ) and to top this order off, it was not 149 bucks ?, so they charged me another 9 something bucks for shipping ?!..lol. once i get some bigger cash in my hands in a few days ?, i'll order the rest of the bearings from rmatv. this will give me time to go through all the gears for defects.

this is why i use mig ( wire ) with flux core, well..a few reasons, one..it welds dirty metal, two, it welds thin metal, third, it can weld in windy conditions, where is other types of welders and rods you can not do this.

then for now, check what i posted above ^^^ for now.

i never...ever..use china knock-off carbs !. first thing you need to do is do a compression test ?. compare it to specs in the service manual ?. if its low ?, it wont run right. if the compression is ok ?, then please check the timing. which foreman is this ?, trx400fm ?, or trx450fm ?.both are the same engine for the most part. when you check the timing marks ?, check the sight hole ( allen bolt , right rear side of engine ), line up the T mark to the line just inside the hole. remove the pull starter, on one of the tangs is a line, it runs front to back..towards the cover, right behind the starter cage, at the back side of the line, is a raised arrow pointing down, should be about 1 o;clock roughly ?, both this arrow, and the line on the starter cage must line up, as well as the T mark in the sight hole. IF THEY BOTH DO NOT LINE UP ?, THIS MEANS THE CAM CHAIN IS STRETCHED, AND THE TIMING IS OFF WITH THE CAM AND CRANK, WHICH MEANS YOUR VALVES WILL BE OFF !.

just placed a small order for some bearings off ebay, rmatv or partzilla did not have them, had to get them from ebay. all the other main bearings i got in my shopping cart at rmatv, i'll order those when i get some cash. had to grab these bearings off ebay seeing how no one had them from my reg supplier. yes..they are oem honda bearings !, just from another honda dealer on ebay.

haha...its only money.....right ?..lol.

i'm going to pm you.

update: ok, i told bcs i was done earlier ?, but i got started yanking out the stupid 50cc, and drove the 450 in the shop, next thing i knew, i was yanking the engine out..lol. got it out of the frame, all split, just came in..i'm beat. what i found out so far: bearings on the idle crank gear are sloppy, both bearings on the bottom side of the transmission are sloppy, have not checked the front side case bearings yet where the tranny rides. one of the main crank bearings '' seems ' ok ?, i have not pulled the other main crank bearing yet ?, i'll check it tomorrow when i wake up, get back out there. bottom line : i'm finding a few bad bearings so far, i've never replaced bearings in the cases, this is a first, i guess they seen to many lake rides huh ?..lol. i did mention to bcs earlier on the phone when we spoke, i had a bad feeling about the main crank idle gear bearings ?, sure enough..i was right so far about these bearings. i was also right about the bearings " so far '' being bad on the tranny shafts. once i go through every bearing, see what is bad ?, see what i can get my hands on from honda ?, i'll order all new bearings that i can get my hands on. i won't do this until later next week when i get some cash in my hands from the trx500fm. Word from this wise owl, if and when you split cases on any engine ?, it's a very good idea to check every bearing in there to make sure they are not sloppy ??!, or you will find yourself later on down the road kicking yer self for not checking them when you had it apart the first time !..lol. last but not least : i have not went through to check the gear dogs on the transmission ?, i will however eye ball them later and see how they look ?. i also will re-check the shift forks as well. time for me to hit the bed, i'll wore out.

the c.d.i. is discontinued.

sorry, you do have the correct cd.i.

yep..you are right..my bad...long day for me..and its not going well.

if for some reason you do have the correct c.d.i. ?, then this tells me you got something wrong with other ele parts on your bike.

i do not use partzilla, i use rmatv=rock mountain atv, look yer bike up there, yu'll see that the part numbers do not match partzilla's.

and i don't give a rats behind what letters are stamped on the connector ?..that is not the correct c.d.i. !.