spock

They may be junk alright, I don't know much about them. It's interesting that they are now in partnership with KTM so they can't be all that bad.... https://www.zigwheels.com/news-features/news/who-is-cfmoto-exactly/33139/

Yeah, I tend to agree with you on this one. Something electrical is the first thing that comes to mind....the question is, what could cause this but not trigger a fault code? Very strange! My experience with a failed Hondamatic was one that worked fine when cold, but when fully warmed up it slipped - similar to a bad clutch.

Well, it sounds to me like you've tried everything there is to test. That leaves the Hondamatic itself which is known for failures in those early years. Strange that it seems different in reverse, but I believe your issue is mechanical and most likely is due to an oil pressure type of malfunction. Hey, I just noticed that our dogs are looking at each other, haha!

Have you inspected the reverse switch - the one attached to the shifter you operate with your hand? It's found in the service manual on page 22-13.

Oh yeah, can't forget the loose front left wheel that I thought would be a bad bearing, it's much worse than that. Upper ball joint to knuckle is knackered!

Well, the Grizzly nightmare continues! Brake pads worn through, not just metal to metal but now it's only got one side left - caliper piston onto disc should work, eh?

Funny that you mention the auto transmission on those Yama-haha's. It is a belt drive CVT system but unlike the Polaris & Can Am it has an engagement clutch. This is similar to Honda with a centrifugal, wet clutch that keeps the belt alive much longer. It's a superior setup and rarely gives trouble. BTW, I got the stator installed and it's charging just fine. On to the next stage, good grief this thing is hurting. Can't test ride it much now anyway, there's a lot of snow here and spring breakup has started - the trails are trash!

You know, everything else in there was fine. The rubbing is because that black junk built up so much it was touching the rotor, it was that thick! The owner of the quad bought the new stator, not sure if it was oem but I doubt it. Yamaha had troubles with these first edition 700's eating stators. Eventually they updated the cover with an oil line to help cool this area. Most guys don't bother and just buy a new "better" stator when they fail. If it were my own, I'd hook up a volt meter to keep an eye on things.

Yeah, good points there guys. Well, the new stator is now installed - wasn't too bad. Funny how I've replaced lots more of them on Yamaha's than Honda's, good thing they're not a sideways engine with the magneto at the rear! Time to get more oil & coolant & a new battery before it can be tested. Then it will need further tear down since the brakes & bearings are a must. I feel sorry for the life some of these quads have...

From what I know, he just kept running it with a truck battery connected to the original (dead) battery. No upgrades, just a well worn work quad. No brakes, shot wheel bearings, etc. I never noticed any smell when taking apart either, but it did run pretty normal. The owner did say sometimes it was shutting down after 5 minutes or so, hopefully it's just a stator it needs. Fingers crossed!

What's crazy is you can see where the rotor/flywheel was rubbing on that charcoal stuff. Amazing that it still ran?! Owned by a rancher guy (no surprise) and has probably more hours than kilometres - over 10,000 I believe.

Just pulled this out of a Grizzly 700, unbelievable! The owner had been running it for quite awhile after the stator died using a truck battery. Anyone else see something this bad?

No quad rides for now, but the sledding is primo!

When I was a kid we used the F scale for temp, then Canada switched to C (like most of the world except USA). It's still confusing trying to convert one to the other.... What I do recall is that 40 below zero is the same in either Fahrenheit or Celsius - it means bloody cold either way! Last night it got down to -38C where I live so we're almost there, haha. Hope this ends soon, not much fun at all.

One thing about those Rubicon's is it's easy to overfill the oil. Don't use more than 5 litres - that's the correct amount. The best way to check the oil level is to do so after driving it a little while, not just idling. Once it's up to operating temp, then it will show correctly on the dipstick.