Outnback

After constructing and installing the battery box / storage compartment, I tackled the electrical hookups. My priority was having a more usable switch set up, but trying to keep everything looking "factory". Leaving the area under the hood open for a heater install if I decide I need one. I purchased a switch plate and switches on line. I modified this plate to fit my needs. The most time consuming part of the install was installing another volt meter into my dash switch plate. CAUTION ! The area on the plate beneath the Wiper switch and Sasquatch lights contains a brace under the dash. There is limited room there, that's why I used the horizontal volt meter that comes with the Honda Auxiliary kit. Purchasing a plate having a blank spot in the plate to avoid that support bracket under the dash is the best way to go. Makes the install much easier. I drilled out the rivets on the existing dash warning plate, and used a heat gun to loosen the glue holding the plate. Was able to remove the old plate without damage to it. After aligning the new plate, I used a metal scribe to mark each switch cut out. Then I marked the outer most corners of all the switches and cut out that rectangle. Tried using my Roto-zip tool to make the cuts. The Roto-zip had way to much RPM for the light plastic and was out of control. I mounted the 1/8" Sabrecut Roto-zip bit into my variable speed drill. WOW ! did that make a difference. I was able to cut the rectangle out with no problems due to the slower speed. So now I have switches important to me, a GPS holder, phone chargers, and a volt meter for each battery. They are installed where I can easily reach them. Keeping with the factory look, I purchased the Honda Auxiliary Wire Harness P/N 0SA30-HL3-100. This was installed under the hood per the instructions. I tapped into the chassis fuse block onto the white/black wire as instructed. This allows me to shut everything off with the key. The main exception to the factory install instructions is, I ran the main power feed cable back to my battery isolator post that feeds my second battery. This allows all my accessories ( Wiper kit, light bars, Auxiliary lights, winch, and future heater ) to be run off my 2nd. battery. Leaving the stock battery just for starting. I installed a TRU Battery Isolator on a homemade non conductive mount under the passenger seat. This is in the area next to the stock battery and in front of the tool kit holder. The mount had to be lowered to avoid contact with the seat. This location also kept my battery leads to a minimum. In the photo, the Battery Isolator (with 2 red caps and wires) is next to my winch contactor. Keeping these two items close together saved me lots of wire. With this set up, both batteries can be charged whenever they call for more juice, but one battery can not drain the other. It's two separate systems. To me, that's extra safety for an "Old Fart" ! I ran the 2nd. battery wires up under the front of the main seat frame, across and over to the storage box / battery holder. These 2 - 4ga. wires were encased in a heat reflective protective sheathing purchased on line. The positive (+) wire was attached to a 100 amp waterproof circuit breaker. This circuit breaker can also serve as a disconnect allowing the battery to be completely disconnected. The negative (-) wire was connected directly to the battery. Again, I used the Honda fuse panel and wiring to maintain a nice clean factory look. I hooked the factory accessory harness directly to the 2nd. battery. That way nothing is drawing electricity from the starting battery. All my lights, winch, and fan are fused and have any required relays within the factory accessory box and are drawing off the 2nd. battery. The 2nd. battery has more than twice the reserve capacity of the starting battery. Both batteries are AGM's so they charge better. In an emergency, a sort jumper wire between the two contact studs (red caps) on the Battery Isolator is all that is needed to jump either battery.

I needed more storage room and wanted to install a second battery in my 2018 Pioneer 700-4. I removed the seat tray and driver's side cover to expose the area under the seat. I constructed an aluminum box to fit within the area. The box measured 9" x 9" x 16" with a 1" lip on the inboard side. A notch had to be cut on the inboard side and lip to clear the factory Oil Fill tube mounts. I flipped the Oil Fill tube to the other side of it's original mount to gain more room. I installed a heat reflective cover on the rubber oil fill tube to protect it from excessive engine heat. A short piece of 1" aluminum angle was mounted inside of the box to secure the bottom of the battery from sliding. I salvaged an old boat battery strap to hold the battery upright. In addition, the left front corner of the box was cut at a 45* angle to match the curvature of the seat. This angle was adjusted to meet the width of the battery. The lip on the top of the box was bolted under the seat brace on the inboard side with 2 bolts. To secure the box to the lower frame, another piece of aluminum was bent into an "L" shape 7" tall with a 2" base. The box was then leveled and secured on the outer side using the 7" x 2" L bracket and 2 more bolts. Two "U" bolts secure the "L" bracket to the frame. There is still an ample air gap between the box and the engine/exhaust. I insulated the outside of the box, by the exhaust, with insulated self stick matting to reduce engine heat. So far, excessive heat build up isn't a problem. In addition, I surrounded the battery with rubber belting to prevent electrical problems and any damage. I'll post the electrical hookup in a future post.

Yep ! What he said ! LOL

Guess I could have explained that better. Moving the winch down to the factory receiver tube for pulling is how it is designed. Think the high mount would put too much leverage on the location it is mounted too. Yep, that bracket isn't going to give, the frame would bend first. There is rear wiring and a quick connector installed behind the high mount so I can pull off either end.

Is that an OSHA approved engine hoist ?

WOW! Great Pictures ! Nice rides !

This forum area needs more activity, so I thought I would share some mods I did to my 700-4D. I'm an Old Fart and with the lose of one arm, I depend greatly on my rigs to get me out of trouble when I have a "lapse in judgement". Generally I travel alone when scouting for critters (Think elk, deer, turkeys). Being able to winch off of the front or rear of the rig is important to me. So I decided to set the 700-4D up this way. Installing a KFI front receiver was easy. Found it on E-bay, new but scratched, so made the seller a reasonable offer and they took it. I also mounted a rubber tube plug to keep it clean. A Warn VXR-35S was mounted to a homemade aluminum plate. The tongue on the plate is made from heavy wall aluminum. It's plenty strong enough and I would rather see the aluminum bend than damage the frame of the Pioneer. Went to E-bay again and found a set of Warn rear mount cables, think they were 10' in length. I used a 5ft. 8inch cable with quick connector for the front end. A 4ft. 4inch cable with quick connector was used on the rear. In addition, a 2ft. cable was used on the winch itself. The lengths of these cables would be determined by where you mount the winch contactor. I mounted my contactor under the passenger side seat. The winch and all my other lights and accessories are run off of a larger second battery (more on that later). To store the winch when not in use, I installed an addition receiver up under the rear of the Pioneer box. As a plus, the winch when stored stays relatively high and dry!

A Hearty Welcome!

So I'm reading down through this post, and I'm wondering why ya think this would need a relay? Then I keep reading and see you guys agree with "toodeep". Crap, now I don't have a basis to ask any kind of question. Well, there goes that opportunity to get a "post count"!

Had good luck with this in the past after lightly heating just the head! Don't want heat to transfer to the bolts.

Well I'ii be Damned ! I've got a paint rack just like that !

Shrade, what brand of light is that ?

Ya Right ! Only thing I ever got for "Free" had to see a Doctor and took pills for 2 weeks.

Yep, what he said ! If it's a single purpose machine (plowing mostly) I've removed all but 10 ft. of cable just to get more drum leverage for lifting the plow. Especially homemade heavy plows.

Well, sorta, I'm new to the SxS myself. I went looking for information on modifications and add on's. He invited me to check this forum out. Now quads, that's different. My wife came home in 2002 with a brand new Polaris 500. My first impression was WTH!! She was in her 50's at that time. Not to be outdone, in '03 I bought a Polaris 500 6X6. You talk about a "go anywhere machine". Ever seen a 300+ inch maybe 1000 lb. bull elk loaded in the dump box of one of these ?? At the time I was working for/with an Elk Outfitter in Colorado. I just got tired of messing with all the regulations on hauling horses. Fast forward a decade, and two more Polaris 500 with EPS are parked in the garage. Oh! my wife wants to sell her 2002, and I quote "It's Wore Out" !! Last time I checked, it had 110 hours on it! Then in 2018 I lost the use of my right arm and the left one has been junk since '06. Don't get old, you ain't going to like it !! Soooo now I am the proud owner of a 2018 Honda Pioneer 700-4. Another good machine, let's see, that's 5 rigs for 2 old farts. Started getting it set up last summer for the up coming hunting season. My "Hunting Buddy" is 81. We need backup and dependability out of any equipment we use. I looked at the Can Am's (Great Machine) but figured the Honda was a better fit for me.

Looks like a good rig for "Calving" !

Howdy Folks, Another Newbie here! Ride primarily in South Dakota. Great site ya have!