jeepwm69

They are definitely cheaper down here. If that were an 05-up at least you'd have disc brakes, selectable front diff, etc you could get some $$$ parting out. I bought these two for $600. The Rubicon (red) is a 2012 that supposedly has the oil pump chain off. The other was an 08 ES with PS,that is now a footshift with PS that I'm almost through fixing up to flip. I figured I could get my money back out of diffs and brakes so I jumped on them, but you gotta look at every project as a "what's it worth in parts" and then offer about 2/3 of that figure.

RUN, don't walk, AWAY from that one. Early Rubicons were notorious for bad oil pumps, which lead to bad Hondamatics ($1700 part). If it's JUST an oil pump chain, why doesn't he replace it? DO NOT BUY. Edited to add, the 01-04 also had drum brakes.

Get you a Pre64 model 70. No finer bolt gun out there. 270 won't be easy to find, but 30.06's are everywhere..

Zerk required is a 10mm x 1.25 thread. Couldn't find one locally so ordered some on Ebay. Got the engine side covers cleaned up and painted, front skid cleaned up and repainted, and pulled the front fender and tank covers out of storage, where I also found a starter, head, valve cover, and two calipers. LOL Time to clean up the shop again and get organized.

Still chipping away at that 08 Foreman, but got sidetracked on the 05 Rubicon this morning. If the kids have friends over, I put them on the Rubicon. It being an automatic, I don't have to worry about them burning up the clutches. I've noticed that if it sits for long periods of time, the gas disappears. Probably a slow bowl float leak, but if I turned the gas off at the petcock, it would still be dry after a few weeks, so I pulled an extra tank out, put a new petcock on it, and put it on the Rubicon this morning. Dang sending units for these used to be about $29. They're close to $60 now! Anyhow, got it on, but ran out of time before I put the plastics back on over it.

Those Ruger 44 carbines are neat little guns. Getting pricey and you don't see them often.

As someone who loves to argue about all kinds of things, including the rails this train went off of, I have to agree with Shade here. Now if ya'll want to argue about weed, there's always the chat section, which we just re-upped.

I think if you mention this forum SuperATV gives you a forum member discount.

I wouldn't pay over $400-500 for that. 2wd, looks like it's been ridden hard and put up wet, and snorkeled which kinda tells you, it's been ridden hard and put up wet.

Welcome to the board. Given your interests, you should fit right in.

Bleeding these things can be a PITA. Try tapping on that block while bleeding (takes two people). Air can get hung up at that junction.

The old Pivotworks bearings were good. I put a set in back in 2014 and just replaced them last summer (which is good for around here with my riding conditions). Got a free replacement set in the mail when I sent them in for the "lifetime guarantee". Ordered several sets on Black Friday last year. Amazon had them for like $22-23/set, so I ordered 5 sets of them (each with a free replacement to come!). Got them and they had seals in the sides with All Balls part numbers on them. Called Pivotworks and they confirmed that they were bought out by the same parent company that owns All Balls, and that the new Pivotworks bearings are simply All Balls with a one time free replacement. If they do have seals in them, pop the seals out and pack them full of good grease before you install them.

Boss are china too Shadetree! I would see what those Pivotworks bearings look like when you get them. If they have the seals in them, I'd send them back and buy Honda bearings. If the sides are open you might have gotten some old stock Pivotworks bearings from before they consolidated with All Balls. Current production Pivotworks bearings are just repackaged All Balls with a "One time (lifetime) free replacement". I guess if you don't mind changing bearings you get two sets for the price of one, but they certainly won't last as long as OEM, unless you luck out and get NOS (new old stock) Pivotworks bearings from before the buyout. Again, no seals-good. Seals-bad.

Yep, remove knuckles, remove seals, remove circlip, press/knock old bearing out, knock new bearing in, replace circlip, replace seals. What kind of bearings did you order?

Well I tried moving Sled's post and replies to a new thread, and screwed it up. Sled, why don't you start a new thread, and we can reply to that. I believe you are correct that the OP resolved the issue, or gave up on it. No replies for a while. That said, a new thread would likely show up on a google search and might help someone in the future.

Going to try to source a zerk to use on the calipers today (Harbor Fright is 60+ miles from me). Yesterday I go the rear fender, rack, and rear flares installed. Ran taps through all the bolt holes since I got paint in the threads when I painted the frame when I had it stripped bare. Was going to get the rear brake reinstalled when the wife came out and handed me the kid (had to get ready to go to church, LOL). Took me 20 minutes to find the new brake cam I ordered. Shop has gotten messy again.

Need to have all 4 tires the same diameter if you're going to run it in 4wd. That's a big no-no to run different sized tires on a 4wd bike. If you keep it in 2wd won't hurt anything.

Huh, well that's just ugly. LOL

I would tear that thing all the way down, send the crank to Vince at Mr Crankshaft, and put it back together, replacing what doesn't look right. I've rebuilt 3 350 engines in the last 2 years. Every one of them has needed a crank. Two of them I though would be ok, and I had to tear the engine back down again to replace the crank. Do the crank, timing chain, seals, oil pump, and top end. Clean the crap out of everything while you're in there. You'll know what you have, and you'll know it's good. Try Powersportsnation.com for parts. Not as cheap as they used to be, but they stand behind the used parts they sell.

Get the Tacoma. I'm a Jeep guy. I have two CJ-7's and Dad's Scrambler, but you don't want a Jeep unless you have another daily driver, and Jeeps are 100% money pits. Just Empty Every Pocket.

The 5 speed in that Jeep is a massive pile of crap. Borg Warner T5. They won't hold up long to even the 258 if you're running big tires and don't regear. Stock with the T5 were probably 3.31's. You'd need 4.10's to run 33's. If you can find a T176 and swap in you'd lose overdrive but it's a much stronger transmission

Could be splines popping as Fish said. Could be the ujoint slapping the inside of the swingarm if your swingarm bearings are worn. Do you have a lift on the machine?

Gonna have to find a zerk that fits that caliper banjo bolt hole

I blew air through both sides so it’s not clogged. They bled great and did not have any air in them at all. Not even tiny bubbles. Normally with air in the system I can pump them up and they will work. In this case pumping away still did very little

What’s the fix for that one? Replace? Seems like you or Retro put a grease fitting on there, got piston out, and cleaned and reinstalled, but can’t find it.