87Iroc

I forget quick evidently.

lol. I just noticed the ignore user button under the profile pics. I then got to mine and was like 'why did the button go away'...... Man. I need more caffeine.

There is none I'm aware of...but allows you to link back or reference an old post. I am not sure you can link directly to a post here or not. Haven't tried.

Just twist it if I recall. Pulls right back up. I had trouble with mine slipping as well. I think I used a screwdriver with like a 1/8" blad on it...maybe 3/16. I recall it not engaging quite right but it pulled back up in just fine. Didn't take much force that I recall.

Welcome!!

The retainer you bought goes in and twists(I believe the needle may snap in it in some manner...but its fuzzy. The china one simply wedges in I think. Uses friction to hold it. both methods likely work.

Totally missed you had posted this. Yah. Know it comes in 2 lengths. I did the shorter as it keeps it down from rubbing on plastic...but you do have to reach down for it. Brother flipped it forward when I was up north at the new year.

That's a China Carb needle retainer thing. I have a couple in my garage. I'm not sure the factory one would work in that slide.

As an awareness... You seem hesitant to tear the engine down further w/o being sure it's bad. You can split cases w/minimal effort if you have it stripped down and inspect everything inside. From bearings to gears to anything else. Slap a new gasket on it and put it back together w/o messing with the crank. Give you a chacne to check your pickup screen and be sure everything inside looks good. I can think of one seal you'd likely have to replace(Front output seal for front driveshaft) as it'll likely get chewed up a bit. YOu just need to lay the case on its rear(I made a stand out of some scrap lumber I had. Still use it for this and that...lol. Its in the garage getting kicked around undder the bench)

Pull the nut. Then whack side of centrifugal clutch with a hammer while pulling on it. SOmetimes you have to flip side to side while pulling on it with your hand. Eventually it'll pop off in your hand. Eventually=maybe a half dozen good firm whacks. I whacked close to the back so I didnt' start to cave the drum in. Back close to where it bends around toward the crankshaft.

Yep.... I'm only regurgitating what I learned from Shade and others on here during my 3-4 month saga of getting my 450 running last year. Many of those guys have touched dozens or hundreds of bikes. I've only worked on 1. Hopefully yours has the same mark.

SUpposed to be 65 here in Southern Indiana on Sunday. Yesterday was mid 50s, bit of a cold snap today to mid 40s....then I think it climbs to Sunday

There are 3 marks. Cam, Crank View Hole, and then on the pull start. Shade told me about the pull start one. It was a game cahnger. Mine was on 'upside down' due to previous owner. If your cover has never been off it should be right. I flipped mine over and started using it. It'll be obvious if its 180 out. Just keep in mind that if it jumped tooth, the front won't be off that much. Yes, line that up on TDC stroke and the cam, that mark, and timing hole in the side should all line up of its on time. I don't really pay much attention to hole in the side as its hard to gauge 'what angle should I look at this' etc to check it. MIne, after putting it back together, the timing mark was off on the front by maybe a 1/4 tooth due to sprocket wear on the crank. It was very close...but not quite 100% right. No way to fix that w/o a new crank...but its not a big deal and mine runs fine. and I believe I was told people have run much worse.

That’s on rear of engine under pull start cover on my 450. tDC would be compression. Only way to get rear mark and timing mark on can to line up. For just checking deck clearance To check bent rod. it doesn’t matter.

Had to find pic

I haven't read the whole thread...but to check timing. Do you know about the pull start cog in the back having a line on it with an arrow on the case to align for timing? Much easier to use than the...what I call almost worthless, plug in side of the case.

I talked to Mr Crankshaft guy(Vince I think) for about 20 min on the phone one day. He was trying to help me diagnose my problem. He told me what to look for for a bent rod. The wrist pin was one check. The bearing at the bottom was another. Pull up/down/etc. Try twisting the rod on the crank as well. He said when he got mine essentially it didn't' need rebuilt but he did it anyway as the wrist pin was a bit looser than he liked to see. I had just a bit of play in mine...I could feel it.

I wouldn't even try it w/o the impact.

I rebuilt my 450 last summer with the help of shade. Its a rabbit hole for sure. I replaced all the bearings, seals, and other misc parts inside well. Little oil pump is over 100 bucks just for it. Crankshaft was 250 from Mr Crankshaft including shipping back(I think it was 15-20 to get it to western TN/KY/AR for me to ship it). Mr Crankshaft will take care of the crank for you no problem. Super nice guy. If you have any mechanical knowledge its daunting....but do-able. Don't use a torque wrench btw. Bad on anything going in to aluminum. Ask me how I know.

Welcome!

Welcome to the site! I'm in Southern Indiana...about an hour from Indy

Welcome!

I had an intermittent spark issue on mine after I put it together. It was a brand new harness from Honda and before it ever ran 'good' the ignition coil wire to the back of the coil broke inside the sheething. Couldn't see it but could create the miss wiggling it. Found it with a DVOM. Anyway, just a suggestion. I know I'm late to the game and you said you found the issue back at the stator...but thought I'd throw that learning out there. I also had an issue with that sire to the pickup sensor that the spade connector was loose and had to be tightened down. Previous owner claimed it was Honda, found out later it was a knock off.

RockyMountainATV is your friend. Great parts break down. There's another one that has better parts interchanges...but I forgot the name as they are more expensive. I tried to not go super cheap on gaskets(shut up shade). Nakamura? Maybe is what I used for head gaskets. I think the full engine gasket kit I bought I paid like 80 bucks for to give you a price range. Also, for seals, I went with Honda seals. Not super expensive. The full gasket sets don't come with oil seals

So sorry to hear that. My families condolences to you and your family.