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shrade

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Everything posted by shrade

  1. shrade

    Plow talk

    Thanks for the response guys, . PROV I am hooked up to the low voltage side, not the main power supply. Will get to town tomorrow and try and find a Warn Switch
  2. shrade

    Plow talk

    have a question for you guys who plow a lot. What type of switch do you have on your winch? my factory switch lasted less than one season, replaced it with a "heavy duty" 15 amp toggle switch, it didn't last much longer. Any suggestions?
  3. The truck that should have been!
  4. I see you were busy last weekend! 😄
  5. shrade

    Weather

    Glad you came thru with minimal damage!
  6. shrade

    Weather

    our prayers are with you Fish.
  7. looks like something Fish's grandad built!!:):)
  8. Yes a vented rotor does stay cooler!
  9. welcome from fly over country!
  10. put a rounding over bit in your router and ease that edge!
  11. shrade

    Weather

    The heat finally broke here this week instead of 95+ we are at 83-88 and lower humidity has been less. nights have been 55-65, good sleeping weather, house has been open the last couple of days. signs of fall are showing up.
  12. muddygirl81: I have a 2005 400 AT that was acting very similar to yours. working and pulling fine in the ESP but would act as though it had no power in the Auto mode. Put it in ESP and run it up a small hill shifting as you would normal. It will probably work just fine. Run up the same hill in Auto, it will probably act as it has no power, this is usually due to the clutch slipping, as you apply more power the rpms of the engine will increase, the ECM thinks it is time to shift into a higher ratio, does so and then the engine doesn't have the power to pull it up the hill. My AT did this shortly after I bought it used with 1200 miles. I replaced the clutch shoes and drum and made sure I used a wet clutch compatible oil. The clutch can be serviced with out removing the engine. the front diff has to be slid forward, the cooling fan and cooler remove to gain access to the front engine cover. A special puller is used to remove the clutch assemble so the "shoes" and springs can be replaced. I am not a professional nut twister, like many of the guys here but was able to do this in a couple of days. I would bet money if you currently have no error codes this new clutch assembly would fix your problem. I found a service manual on fleabay which was a tremendous help. I think the electronic versions may be available from folks on this forum. If the rest of your bike is as good as it looks IMO it would be worth the trouble. I do not know how much bigger your tires are than the original, but have read that going too large is not advisable with these bikes, as it can put "stress"on the tranny. I still have the original wheels and tires on mine and have had no issues after the re-build. If you are working the bike hard Like I do when pushing snow, NEVER do so in the auto mode, as this can shorten the life of the clutch, always in ESPP if you are working it. If their is anything else I can do let me know. Go to page one of the link that Jeep posted above, It is a great wright-up on the AT tranny's.
  13. Thank you for your service and welcome from Nebraska
  14. shrade

    Weather

    Keep your head down Fish!!
  15. Shade: didn't know you made house calls!
  16. welcome aboard the forum, you should fit right in!
  17. Welcome from fly-over country!
  18. shrade

    Oh400ex

    welcome aboard!
  19. shrade

    Firearms

    Scotticus: here is a short bit from the American Rifleman about the 66. More SUBSCRIBE A look at the history of Smith & Wesson clearly shows how the company has been—and continues to be—at the forefront of innovation and manufacturing prowess. From the time of the first totally enclosed cartridge—the .22 Short—introduced in 1857 to the modern X-frame in .460 and .500 S&W Magnum, the company has met the needs of handgunners, often before they even knew of that need. In 1957 Smith & Wesson introduced the Model 19 Combat Magnum at the behest of Border Patrolman Bill Jordan. Law-enforcement types flocked to the Model 19 like deer to a corn feeder, resulting in the nickname a “police officer’s dream gun.” It was the size and weight of most .38 Special revolvers, yet had the capacity to handle the powerful .357 Magnum that many officers preferred because of its superior stopping power and penetration. Even plain-clothed detectives liked the 2 1/2-inch-barreled version, and, naturally, the citizens competed in the marketplace for the premium revolver. In 1965 S&W introduced the first revolver to be made from stainless steel—the Model 60. Basically a Model 36 Chief’s Special in the more modern material, it, too, found a reception far beyond the company’s initial expectations. It worked once; let’s try it in the Combat Magnum. So in 1970 the first .357 Magnum made from stainless steel was made. The first Model 66—as it would be known—came off the line on May 5 of that year, serial number K949100. Smith & Wesson would not announce the new revolver until July 8, 1971. Like its blued predecessor, the Model 66 was the darling for men who strapped a revolver onto their waist every day to face the world. The everyday cop that worked an 8- to 12-hour shift appreciated the half-pound weight savings that the K-frame provided. The gunners among the force often preferred the heftier Model 27 because that half pound soaked up recoil better, but the everyday officer rarely had to shoot and most departments still used .38 Special cartridges anyway. The Model 66 offered everything the Model 19 did, plus it was rust resistant. Three barrel lengths were initially offered: 2 1/2, 4 and 6 inches, and each had their fans. The 4-incher is hands down the most popular, offering a reasonable compromise in carry vs. shootability. The 2 1/2-incher was popular as either a concealed-carry or backup gun. The rural highway patrolman or sheriff deputy often opted for a 6-inch barrel because of the perception that armed encounters have a better chance of occurring at longer ranges or may involve barriers where a little more velocity would be desirable. There was a short run—2,500 units to be exact—of 3-inch barreled 66s made, and today they fetch a nice premium over standard barrel lengths. There have been eight engineering changes to the Model 66, often referred to as “the dashes.” The Model 66 without a dash came out in 1970; seven years later the Model 66-1 appeared with the gas ring attached to the cylinder rather than the yoke. The year 1982 gave us the Model 66-2 which eliminated pinned barrels and recessed cylinders. In 1986 the Model 66-3 with a new yoke retention system/radius stud package/hammer nose bushing and floating hand came to the marketplace. Eight years later in 1994 the Model 66-4 had a slightly different rear sight leaf, a relocated drilling and taping of the frame for the rear sight, along with optional Hogue grips and a change in the extractor. The Model 66-5 introduced in 1998 brought us a change in frame design: eliminating the cylinder-stop stud, the elimination of serrated tangs, a change to a MIM hammer with a floating firing pin, along with changes in the internal lockwork. The dreaded internal lock—a.k.a. Hillary Hole—was foisted upon us in 2002 yielding the Model 66-6, the Model 66-7 featured a two-piece barrel and more internal lock mechanisms. This year the Model 66-8 was brought to the market. Smith & Wesson dropped the Model 66 from production in 2005. There were a couple of reasons. First, the trend in LE armament has almost entirely gone to the semi-auto pistol. Departments and officers who have the prerogative to purchase their own handguns rarely—if ever anymore—purchase revolvers, save a J-frame for undercover or as an off-duty weapon. Too, most .357 Magnum shooters have gone to the slightly heavier L-frame revolvers because they stand up to more abuse from the heavy loads. I believe it is back in production, not sure shrade
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