shadetree

6 piece ain't gonna cut it !.

20 bucks say's you got an air bubble trapped some where in the brake lines !.

this is another test huh ?, you ask us what we think or advise you to do, then you turn right around and buy china crap anyway.....right ??. ( sigh ).

all i see is something for target practice ?!!.

large black o-ring goes on bottom of cylinder around the sleeve on outside in groove. green o-ring goes around dowel pin in head gasket. two larger black o-rings for the valve caps. one black o-ring is for the intake boot to cylinder. i am not sure what the last black o-ring is for ?. as for the gaskets, they will only lay on the base and head one way, all you need to do is line the cut-outs up correctly, they will only lay flat one way, if you put it down wrong ?, you will see how it fits once down on the surface.

as fish ^^^ explained, the pinch system works , but you must not let the vise grips open much as you are opening them up, and pulling brake lever. the trick is to just barely open the vise grips as you are pulling the brake lever, and just barelyyyyy..opening the vise grips to just a hair to allow a very small amount of brake fluid pressure ease by the pinch point. been doing it this way for years, i've yet to have a brake system beat me !.

it's a splash shield, its suppose to spin with the drive shaft, keeps crap out of the pinion gear area.

good deal !, your welcome.

welcome to the forums.

haha..not when they are made in china !..lol.

i can't say for 100% ?, its been a min or two sense i last worked on a 1986 ?.

haha..its yer butt miles from the house when it bites the bullet !..lol.

and for the record ?, it does not matter if you are only going 100 feet ?, or 10 feet at night ?, it only takes a couple sec's to start a atv fire !..lol.

i'm only gonna say this, and leave the rest to you wheeler. no matter what the stator puts out ?, what extra battery you install ?, PLEASE KEEP IN MIND THE WIRING HARNESS MAY/CAN NOT HANDLE THE AMPERAGE !!, YOUR GOING TO BURN UP THE WIRE HARNESS IF YOU OVER LOAD IT !.

but..those pics were both mine and mels...again..you stole my credit !..rofl.

no, i meant that some one swapped in another drum from another trx350 model, all years from 1986 to 1989 may seem the same ?, but they are not, the 1986 brake drum is different.

i just want to know if the bearing worked for you ??..lol.

answer: someone replaced one of the brake drums from another year model.

unless they are ripped ?, i re-use them. if they are ripped ?, i got a honey hole where i get them ( oem ).

good deal, ty 4 the update !.

so you musta took the whole bottle then...right ?..lol.

90 bucks or more an hour here at my local dealership.

i am not saying the years will not swap out ?, i'm saying any after market boots will not fit !.

why you little old fart !!..grrrr...lol.

while i wait for the call from you flat, i'll make this simple as i can ?, but there is no way to walk you through this fast !..lol. first off, you will need to put the left side back together correctly, so with that said, lets begin !. pull the shifting parts all back out of the left side, all the way back down to the end of the shift drum. now the fun starts !. don't worry about the dot on the rim of the cup for the ratchet paws !, its useless !!!. i'm gonna have you do it my way, and it will be right !. pull the center bolt back out of the shift drum cup, look on the back of the cup, notice the indention ?, now notice the dowel pin that goes in the end of the shift drum , when you install the cup back onto the end of the shift drum, ITS VERY IMPORTANT TO LINE UP THAT DOWEL PIN TO THE INDENTION TO THE BACK SIDE OF THE CUP !. where you will fight this is with the star wheel and its tough spring ( this is the arm that has the wheel on the end of it ), the wheel must catch in the cut-outs of the cup when installed, and this can be hard to get it all lined up when putting it together. your main focus here is to MAKE SURE THAT DOWEL PIN FITS CENTERED IN THE BACK SIDE OF THE CUP !!. Once you have the cup bolted back onto the shift drum, and manage to get the star wheel and its tough spring all back installed ?, install the ratchet paws back inside the center of the cup, make sure you have the small washer looking wheel facing forward once the ratchet paws are installed inside the cup !, now install the metal plate facing the correct way on the two mounting bolts. once this is done, slide the shifting shaft into the case hole, as you get down into the shifting shaft area, left side rest on that small wheel, the large spring will fit over the peg thats sticking out of the case, this is your return spring, MAKE SURE THE TANGS ON THE SPRING ARE ON BOTH SIDES OF THE PEG !!!. Now slide the thrust washer back onto the end of the shifting shaft, double check all your work so far, make sure you installed everything correctly ?!!!. install the stator cover ( this is the left hand side cover, pay close attention to that one bolt that calls for a copper washer on it !!, should be a raised arrow on the cover pointing at the bolt hole ?, this bolt must have a copper washer under the head, or it will leak engine oil !. temporary install the foot shift lever onto the shaft, shift up or down, while you spin the wheel to check to see if you have it in neutral, do this until you get the transmission in neutral. Now go to the right side, yes..you must pull this side in order to finish the job !. you may or may not tear the gasket when doing so ?, so plan on having a new side cover gasket on hand !. DO NOT USE RTV SEALANT FOR A GASKET !!!, YOU MUST USE A OEM GASKET !!. WARNING !!!!!!!, CAUTION WHEN REMOVING RIGHT SIDE COVER !!, there is a few thrust washers and kick starter shaft, reverse lever shaft that can, and will come out !!!, you do not want the kick starter lever to come out of the engine for sure !!!, reverse lever is fine if it pops out ?, spec if you have a new gasket on hand ?!!. Remove all the cover bolts ( may want to drain your engine oil..or tilt on left side at 45 degree's ? ), once all the cover bolts are out, carefully tap the cover loose, while you are doing this, you want to be holding the kick starter shaft in at all times !!!, this is where another person comes in handy, they tap, you push the kick starter shaft in while they tap. if you get the cover off without letting the kick starter shaft come out ?, your home free so to speak !. i find this job easier with the engine oil drained, so the tapper person can get to the tabs where you work the cover off. Ok, don't forget to remove the reverse lever bolt that holds the outside lever onto the reverse shaft lever, but if you missed this step ?, its no big deal, you still need to get the bolt off the outside of the cover, and remove the shaft out of the cover. now pull the oil pick up screen out of the middle lower of the engine, it will be behind the gasket, so this means you will tear the gasket to remove it ( this is why i said have a new gasket on hand ! ). ok, there is 3 thrust washers you must put back on spots, one large for the kick starter shaft, one small washer goes on the shifting shaft clutch arm, and the last small washer goes on the reverse lever shaft before you put the cover back on !. DO NOT LOOSE OR LEAVE THESE WASHERS OUT !. Ok, where the shifting shaft pokes through the case at lower left side, look back in there at where the shaft is coming through the case, notice there is a raised arrow with its point, pointing at the shaft ?, now look at the clutch arm, on the end of the arm, at the left back side of it, there is a punch mark stamped in it, slide the arm onto the shaft, all while keeping this punch mark lined up with that raised arrow at the back, THEY MUST LINE UP, OR IT WILL NOT SHIFT RIGHT !. install the small washer onto the clutch arm on the end. find the reverse lever, has a spring on it, this lever has a notch on it, the spring has a hook on it, it pre-loads when installed correctly on the lever, carefully install the reverse lever into the case hole, when you get close to the engine case, you will notice that the long end of the spring is facing down towards about 4-5 o'clock , take a screw driver, place it under the long end of the spring tang, while you tap the lever back into the case hole, wedge the screw driver under the spring tang, lift up and over the case edge as you tap the lever back in, the long end of the spring rest up on top of the oil filter pick up case area., now install the small washer on the end of it. make sure the large washer is back on the kick starter shaft ? I do not know if you got this side of the shift drum cup installed correctly or not ?, you will need to re-check this work to make sure you have it installed right ?. if you have removed all of these parts, and put it back together ?, then more than likely you may have done it wrong ?. get back to me on this if you did it wrong ?, but you said you are getting a neutral light ?, so gonna say you got it right !. with the cover still off, reach to the change clutch, with your finger, grab hold of the tab on the friction disk, see if you can push and pull the tabs in and out ?, if you can ?, then your friction disk are messed up, and this explains alot as to why it wont move !. you will need to pull it all down in order to correct this. this means you must pull the centrifugal clutch first, because you can not remove the change clutch without getting the centrifugal clutch off first !. WARNING !!!!, THE CENTRIFUGAL CLUTCH HAS LEFT HAND THREADS ON THE CRANK SHAFT HOLDING IT ON !!. CLOCK WISE TO REMOVE THE STAKED NUT !. THE CHANGE CLUTCH HAS RIGHT HAND THREADS. if you get the clutch off ( book calls for a spec tool to remove the centrifugal clutch, but i use a ball peen hammer..lol ), once you get to the change clutch, get the staked nut off, remove the 4 bolts from the center springs, then pull the basket out, check all the spacer disk, and friction disk to make sure they all stack tight to one another ?, center in, springs, plate, 4 bolts, tighten them down good, DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THEM, THEY WILL BREAK OFF !. slide the clutch basket back on the shaft, make sure you got all parts back in that came out ?. put the nut back on the basket, install the bearing, install the lifter plate, dab some grease on the 3-ball piece that has the spring attached, tilt the atv on its left side, 45 degree's, lay the 3-ball piece with spring down into the lifter plate, notch faces down,rest on the clutch arm wheel. Now install the centrifugal clutch, remember..NUT IS LEFT HAND THREADS !!. don't forget to install the oil splash back onto the oil pump before you install the clutch !!. double check to make sure all washers and parts are where they should be ??, like the oil pick up screen ??..lol. install gasket, carefully install the side cover, it should slide back down onto the engine, IF FOR SOME REASON THE COVER DOES NOT DROP BACK DOWN TO THE CASE ?,,THEN DON'T FORCE IT !!!..there is something keeping it from going back down ?. if you must pull the cover back off ?, PULL THE GASKET BACK OFF, OR YOU RISK RIPPING IT !. also hold onto the kick starter shaft..you DO NOT WANT THE KICK STARTER SHAFT TO COME OUT !!..LOL. I think i typed enough, you have my number, get stumped ?..call me !.