shadetree

no, i do not use yamabond on a new case gasket, no need for it, unless the cases are nicked from some dummy splitting them before i got my hands on them ?, i only use new gaskets where it had a gasket.

i'll bet a 100 dollar bill, that your c.d.i. is bad !!, bet ??..I KNOW FOR A FACT ( SPEC THE 1996 MODELS ! ), THAT ANY TIME YOU GO AND PUSH THE START BUTTON, AND IT FIRES ONE TIME ?, OR ONLY FIRES WHEN YOU LET GO OF THE START BUTTON ?, ITS A BAD C.D.I. !. 1996 models came from the factory with a defective c.d.i. !.

why you showing him a trx300 kit ?, he has a trx350, but still, that rubber plug doesn't come in the trx350 kits either, i believe they do come in the oem kits from honda though ?.

maybe my bad eye is still messed up, but do i still see the outer race down inside the case ??.

tires are ok, if ya like aggressive tires ?..lol rear diff was busted all to heck when i opened it up ( along with that growth that was inside of it ! ), i wont run tires like these, i know better !..lol.

if you don't get that wire clip out ?, you will end up busting the case where the bearing rides, YOU MUST GET THAT CLIP OUT !.

here is the painted engine installed in a '' some what '' painted frame so far :-).

before you tried welding to the needle bearing race, and yank it out, did you get the wire clip out from around the needle bearing ?, if you did not ?, no amount of welding is gonna work !, all your gonna do ( as you have already from the looks of the case ), is ruin the case, because it will just shatter the case where the bearing rides.

haha..last time you mailed an oil seal ?, it took 3 weeks for it to get here !..rofl. thank you very much for the offer bro !!, i need all of them, complete motor, front transfer case, front differential seals, middle drive shaft oil seals. i ordered all of them from partzilla, this is catfishes 300, so i am not in a hurry. i can wait on them from partzilla, gives me time to rest up..lol. ty again very much for the offer, i love it when us members come together to help each other out in a time of need !!!.

welcome to our forums !.

got frame cleaned up, a tad of gloss paint on the frame, painted the engine, installed the engine, called it a night ( no..i did not take any pics..too tired ), will post some pics later.

i see one problem already ! ( never can figure out how ppl miss it ? )..lol. there is suppose to be a metal clip on the switch housing, clips over the end of housing, around the grooves in the cable, # 36, https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/atv/1996/trx300fw-a-fourtrax-300-4x4/handle-switch-cables . it keeps the cable from moving, and lets the inner part slide.

yvw bro !!, glad to help ya !! :-).

if there is a seal ?, its not to tell if the miles or hours have been tampered with ?, it will be for warranty reasons. like it was said ^^^, if a crook wants to be dishonest about hours/miles on an atv, WHATS STOPPING THEM FROM BUYING A BRAND NEW METER/DISPLAY ????..nothing !!!!. a good point though, if a buyer can't tell by looking at an atv, and see the wear on it , and it does not match the miles/hours ?, then they dont need to be on one !..rofl.

haha..story of my life !..lol. it's cool, i've got plenty of small things to keep me busy for a few days, gonna try to get the frame rolled back out, give it a good power washing, then slap some fresh gloss black paint on the frame.

you should down load the service manual, read it, then read it again !. no you do not need to remove any engine covers. you will how ever need to remove the sight cap inspection, right rear, allen head wrench, i think its 6mm ?, remove it, remove the pull starter from rear engine, so you can access the 17mm bolt on the crank, remove spark plug, with a 17mm socket on the crank bolt, turn it clockwise, with a flash light, look into the sight hole, watch for the T mark to show up on the flywheel, it should line up with the index in the hole, now peek at the back of motor where your 17mm bolt is, notice on the starter cage, on one of the tangs, there is a line stamped on it, it runs from front to back, straight line, it should be facing the raised arrow stamped on the case right behind the starter cage, roughly between 12-1 o'clock ?. if all these timing marks line up ? then your cam chain is ok. but with it being the year it is ?, i'd say it prob needs a new cam chain ?, i only use D.I.D. cam chains.

start by purchasing a shindy carb rebuild kit, over haul the carb, give it a good cleaning before you go putting it back together. how old is the fuel ?, has it been sitting for awhile ?, give it a fresh tune up, new air filter, new spark plug, wouldn't hurt to change the oil and oil filter, DO NOT INSTALL THE OIL FILTER BACKWARDS !!!!. check the compression, check the timing, check/adjust valves if needed ?. most times, when they only run on choke ?, this tells me you go issues with fuel delivery ?, dirty carb ?, dirty fuel ?, low compression ?, timing is off because of a stretched cam chain ? ( this is why i say check the timing ! ). maybe an air leak around the intake boot at the intake ?.

only time i install a brand new meter ?, is when i do a complete engine over haul ( which is most of the time ! ), other than this ?, i don't replace them to sell for lower miles. but like i said, i put new on my atv projects when i rebuild the engine, and thats a 100% chance,,as most atvs i buy are basket cases !..lol.

update: got the engine back together just now, waiting on all my oil seals from partzilla, they say my oil seals wont ship out until april 20th !..grrrrr.

my only question is....HOW ?????..LOL.

well, at least you knew to look it over huh ?, there are tons of buyers that have no clue what to check !!!, i can't stress this enough to buyers/members !. when i was selling my '88 trx300fw, one guy seemed mad ?, HE COULD NOT FIND ANYTHING WRONG WITH IT TO JEW MY PRICE DOWN !!..HAHA.

i'm with fish on this topic, no amount of pb,wd, kroil, lw...will ever break the rust off the full length of the bolt stud !!. breaking them free from the get-go is easy for most of us, its getting the dang nut, screw, whatever all the way off the stud...BEFORE THE DANG THING SNAPS OFF !..LOL. been turning rusty nuts/bolts for 28yrs now, and trust me..I'VE HAD SOME DANDY'S !. lately, i've snapped off a couple very large ( 17 mm ) nuts/bolts off the mufflers on some of these trx300's i've been working on, and the worst part about these ?, IS HONDA DECIDED TO PUT THEM BEHIND THAT STUPID METAL PLATE RIGHT AT THE BACK OF THE FRAME !, no way to access it ?..well..there is shadetree's way !!..lol. i take my angle grinder, slice me a hole right inside the frame on that dang metal, open it up were i can access the nut on the inside, when done, just hammer the metal back up, and leave it for the next person that will ever need to get to it..lol.

other than keep up with hours/miles, time ?, no, it does nothing but show you what gear your in. unless your using the oem factory settings like the neutral light, oil light, and the 4x4 light ?, i see it does nothing.

ok, first pull those pins back out of the end of the shift drum !!, you do not want them falling out, down into the engine when you go to put the cases together ??!. install them AFTER you get the cases back together !. but yes, thats how they go in the shift drum.

take it with a grain of salt, risk a used one ?, or buy a brand new meter ?, i guess the $ 64,000.00 question is, how bad, how fast you want it fixed ?. me ?, i'd drop a new one in its place. keep your atv away from wet stuff, and out of the weather. i park mine under a covered carport, and stay away from lakes...lol.