shadetree

the rear end is only as good as the ring gear, pinion gear, and axle if not bad ?, if bad ?, its not worth it, cept for the plastics.

all of them new are round, once you install them, over time, they flatten out.

lol, WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF ATV REPAIR AND OWNERSHIP !..LOL.

my sense of adventure is just dandy !, its the death part that has alot to think about !..lol.

like fish posted ^^^, its prob gone by now ?..lol. if i did not have this one i am working on ?, and had the cash ?, i'd buy it in a heart beat !.

i paid $ 450.00 for this '88 i am working on, so yeah, 400 is a steal !.

well, i finally got caught back up on RL issues, and now its time to get back on this build !. stick around, i'll be posting progress pics here soon !.

i am NOT mud person ( just ask anyone on here that knows me ! ) , but i envy ya on this build !.

sense when is canada warm ??..lol.

welcome, but don't you go posting b.s. on here !, we are ad free..AND WANT TO STAY THAT WAY !..LOL.

haha, i've split many trx300 engines, they are fairly easy once you do a couple of them. i use a milk crate to rest my engines on. the main thing when doing engine splits ?..MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE CASES FACING THE CORRECT WAY WHEN YOU OPEN THEM UP !!. always have the output shaft facing down when the time comes to split the main cases !!!, if you don't ?, your gonna have tranny gears flying everywhere !..lol.

as long as the connecting rod is good in any of those engines ?, then i would just swap motors. BUT !!!, if the rod is bad ?, your wasting your time and money.

here's what i would do: remove the bolts from the handle bar clamps, slide the bars out of the way, reach in from in front of the front fender, remove the two 12mm bolts holding the steering stem clamp to frame. from under the atv, remove the 22mm lock nut off the steering stem shaft, drop the tie rod end off the steering shaft, then just pull the steering shaft up , and out of the bearing. from here, you can either pry the old dust seal off the top of the bearing with a seal puller tool, or just pry it out with a flat blade screw driver, IF YOU HAVE A NEW SEAL TO GO BACK IN ??!. once the seal is out, remove the snap ring, you will need a good pair of snap ring pliers to get it out, some are rusted in there. i soak mine with wd-40, then take a punch, and tap one end of the snap ring to free it up some, once this is done, its easier to pull the snap ring out. once snap ring is out, from under the bearing, take a long bar, say 3/8 ?, use it to put in from under, and through the bottom dust seal, then hammer the bearing up and out. MAKE SURE YOU MOVE THE BAR SIDE TO SIDE ON THE BEARING !!!, this will keep you from wedging the bearing in the frame hole. if you have a new bottom dust seal as well ?, you can put that in from the bottom first, new bearing back down in from the top, then snap ring, then new dust seal, then slide steering shaft back down through bearing. i do not know why honda put a snap ring on top of this bearing ??..its not like it will go anywhere once down in the frame !..lol.

welcome to the forums.

welcome to the forums.

welcome to the forums.

welcome to the forums, your in great hands here !.

welcome home !..lol.

wellllllllll..he needs to post the correct info with the correct pic in post !..lol.

please check your pm !!!.

pic with spring ?. that is not your drain screw !, that is your fuel mixture jet.

nope, dont need another trx350 here,,i got a blue one here that needs to get done !!!..lol.

here is a before an after carb cleaning, as you can see, the before pic was just down right nasty !!..lol it was cleaned by hand. these are two diff carbs, but you get the idea :-).

unless you put the O-rings in the wrong place ???, the drain screw has a groove around the end of it, you should see it once you remove the drain screw.

i pm'd you the link to partzilla, showing you ( #13 ) in the fich what o-ring you needed, but it should have been in the shindy kit ( if you purchased a REAL shindy kit ? ), they do not put everything in one bag, you have to sort them out.