shadetree

he's not going anywhere..unless his wife has him arrested for breaking her trx300fw ?..lol. it's all good...offer him a 30 pack..bet he'll reconsider !..rofl,

last time i was at jeeps house...he had this in his front yard...don't let him fool you !..rofl.

here is the gap on my '03 trx450fm.

makes perfect sense !. the carb kit i put in it is for a 88-90 ( i already had it here ), if it runs like crap ?, i'll break down and buy a 95 shindy kit. the switch i used on it came off a 1990 trx300, so that would explain why the switch did work. its nice to have two brains here again !!..lol. i have a feeling i will need to change out the choke cable and enrichment valve...sigh..lol.

as fish ^^ said, drain the oil, or remove the skid plate, and jack the rear up really high, sensor is on the back bottom side, yu'll see it when you remove the bottom skid plate.

spend .99 cents, buy a for sale sign..problem solved...lol.

make sure the end of the bolt is going into the swing arm bearing ?!., if its not ?, it will push the frame out.

you are.

this oil temp sensor works off ohm's, its a switch that screws into the engine case.

no

bad fan control ?, or bad oil temp sensor ?.

it was the bar switch !. here is the carb all cleaned up, few pic's.

well, good news !. i did get fire on plug, i made a trip to cat fishes bone yard, grabbed a couple wire harness, both had the switch housing on them. grabbed a spark plug coil, and a reg/rec. changed out the reg/rec, changed out the switch on bars, changed out the spark plug coil, by hand, i seen spark !. shot some starting fluid straight into the head, spark plug in, a quick kick, she lives !!. now to narrow it down as to which of these parts were the bad part ?. as i changed 3 parts, i will go back , and swap each one back in as is, and see which one changes back to no spark ?. my money say's it was the reg/rec. i'll post results before long.

thanks, but i can clean this one up, i've got a shindy kit ready for it. right now, i am not getting spark on plug, either stator is toast ?, or the reg/rec is toast ?. gonna test ( ohm out ) the stator, see what i get ?.

mail man just ran, santa sent me the new oem c.d.i. and rubber holder, i'll update later with the results if this is gonna run as is ?.

where did you find this pic with me in it ?, dang..i forgot i was driving that day..too many cold ones i guess ?!..lol.

removed the carb, it's nasty !!. here is a few pics, try not to puke !..lol.

lol. i've got an oem outer filter, thank you anyway !. yes, it needs my love, i'll fix her up, this is a budget build, nothing too fancy like one i would fix up to sell.

yep, after our phone call just now, thank you for the info !.

did anyone notice the red c.d.i. box in my first post pic ?, i pulled that off another trx300 that was out at cat fishes place, it has a sticker on the side of it, it say's '' made in Argentina '' . i know we have had a few talks about some of the trx300's came from the factory with red c.d.i.'s in the past, and some claim that these are factory oem c.d.i,'s, and of course, i always said no, they are china made, so my question is, sense when does honda use parts from Argentina ????..lol.

amazon's servers were down last couple days, they were hacked...lol.

good deal !. its been a min sense i last installed swing arm bolts and bearings in a trx300, or any model for that matter !. looking at you're pics ^^ , it almost tells me you should have tightened down on the right side swing arm bolt some more ?, i do not like that much gap from what i see in the pic ^^. try snugging down a tad harder on the ride side swing arm bolt, see if you can bring that gap in a tad closer.

lets try this again, cept this time, take the drive shaft, install it first into the output shaft, slide the whole swing arm over the drive shaft, when you get to where the back end of the drive shaft goes into the rear diff, some how level off the axle tube from the middle to the frame above, now stab the swing arm bolts back through the frame, start on left rear side, then start the right rear side, have the lock nut backed out a good ways, enough to get the center bolt started, once this is done, level the back end of the swing arm as close to level as you can, as well as get the boot back over the large end right there on the swing arm, leave the bands off for right now, just get the boot on both ends.once this is done, at the rear diff, spin the axle with a hub on either side, the drive shaft end there '' should '' pop right in, and onto the pinion gear end, don't forget that large o-ring that goes in the diff groove before you put the nuts back on. other than this ?, you are making it sound very hard, when its really not. oh...once swing arm is half way level ?, install the rear shock, this helps hold it up !.

yep, do this freebo86 ^^ .

be warned, if that magnet drops inside ?, you can kiss that differential goodbye !..lol. i hope it works for you though !.