oh400ex

I see him as very similar to the people that hurt animals for views. There are very successful channels that get more views than WD who's premise is animal rescue. Meaning that they purposefully put a puppy or kitten in a compromising position (under a car tire) and "save" it. Complete abuse that is nothing more than praying on emotions and anger for views. Not good for them for getting money right? Exactly like Whistlin Diesel. Just not actually a crime and he should take down his own videos and self-reflect. Youtube will eventually remove the actual abuse videos but more will come.

haha well spotted! It was gold plated everything! Spark plug (I believe) was a two pack with the extra being in the bike's tool box. Cost shipped was around 8 dollars and I rounded up. 25 for an oil filter??? I know... Arctic Cat OEM brand is the reason for that one basically. No other cheaper option if they wanted OEM and it was like 24 and change shipped. The battery is a cheap one from eBay or Amazon and I think was a mighty max brand. Super cheap and crap but that is what they wanted. I usually suggest LifePo4 now for anyone who's bike is going to sit for any amount of time. I totally agree the labor rates are too cheap. I will sometimes charge someone two hours for something Honda would likely only charge 1 hour for. This is/was only a side project for me and was never intended to actually make any money. I just wanted to help people and occupy some time while not losing out myself. Working for completely free has burned me with the exception of a handful of people lol. My thought is if they can't pay < half price then they don't value my work at all.

Happy ending. They paid begrudgingly and then called later (twice) to tell me how good a job I did and how much they can see that I went over it so well 😂 I have only had to do a lien in a technology context. I would fix someone's laptop and they wouldn't pay so I'd keep it and sell or bin after 90? days. Only ever had to do that a handful of times but more often someone would know what the work I quoted them would cost but there would end up being more wrong and they decide they don't want to pay anything now as they are already looking at a new one. Even that didn't happen very often. Our local Honda shops are getting backed up in the service department so I'm basically booked for the next few weeks straight.

Hello everyone, Came home with stuff in the trailer today... 250x, motor(s), tires and rims, along with lots of extra parts I snapped a few pictures as it was getting dark. I know how some of you are... so I peeled back the top on some of the boxes and engines to give you a little peek. 😂 Bonus points if you know what engine the other one is... Thank you for looking!

Do you or have you thought about doing this for other gauges? I know I recently worked on an Arctic Cat "Teardrop" gauge and everywhere online people were complaining about similar issues and no fix but to replace. For that particular gauge, it just need to be taken apart, cleaned and reassembled correctly (someone had been into it before)

Just an update for y'all... They oil jug is still holding gas after a week and sat in the sun for two days. The patch on the bike is also not leaking. This (CA glue / baking soda) should be considered a temporary solution but it is WAY better than I thought it would be.

Sounds to me like you are pushing a giant air bubble around. I'm sure you don't usually have these problems and it just bleeds up normally. I have had similar problems before and ended up solving it with a giant syringe. If you have an extra large syringe and a rubber tip you can fill from the bottom up and eliminate any potential issues once and for all. I take off the main line from the caliper and master to force brake fluid up through the system. Fill using the syringe in the caliper line until it comes out the other caliper line then close the bleeder on the other side and wait for it to come out of the master's line. You can even tilt the bike slightly to ensure your fill point is the lowest in the system. Sorry if I'm just telling you to "check if there is gas in it" and this is something you have already done. Looking forward to seeing it finished!

For how much?

How does it stop? I know the lever is mushy but does it now stop when pumped a few times and get weaker over time? Edit: I know you have redone a lot and am curious if stopping performance may be already good but handle just feels much different? Edit 2: I read above where you said brakes "barely slow the thing down" Have you checked for a bubble in the hose? With the pressure off visually inspect and then get it to max pressure and clamp the handle. Look for a bulging hose? Just shooting, sorry if you already tried!

Came out really clean! I was going to mention earlier to check the actual pull of the LED's. I'm glad you took the meter out. This is the only reason decent drop-in LED's are brighter as they use less power to make the same amount of light (aka similar power draw and more light) What is the total draw in watts of the bar and the pods together? (if you know) Great job on the switch too! Whole thing came out really nice!

He did say it was his buddy. 😂 I think this may be a "lead a horse to water" sort of deal for Iroc The Suzuki was likely made in Japan and is in a totally different league compared to the Tao and Polaris. That being said... look how trashed it is. If he's going to get something like that, get a Honda. Not only are parts cheaper and more available but he will likely need less of them. 😁

Tao Tao / Polaris Trailblazer / Suzuki? Skip all of them. Bad.

Welcome!

If the other stuff lasted 6 months JB will last 6 years. Just pull the trigger on cleaning and applying JB and get back to it lol

Welcome! If I'm wrong about this someone will call me out ASAP but I'm pretty sure it is supposed to be fixed to the shaft. Edit: Fixed to the shaft would be spinning. I'm sorry for the confusion. My understanding is that it is basically a dust cover for the bearing inside. JB Weld is a different beast from what you are using and would absolutely hold in this context. Prep (with most things) is the most important part. Shine that up with rough sandpaper first and give something for the JB to bond with. Do not use quick. Original JB only. Push the JB very hard into the surface to give it a "skim coat" and encourage bond. Make sure you mark or remember the OEM position before sanding as you will lose your wear mark. Also leave enough gap for no rubbing to occur.

Got my new (Shadetree approved) Chi Long brand carburetor from eBay today and put it in the bike. When first started it began to rev up like the throttle was open so after attempting to reposition the needle slide I noticed it was not fully seated. The issue turned out to be that the throttle and cable that was on the bike was not perfectly matched. It was a bit too short (even after adjustment) which caused the slide not to fully seat. I ended up grinding a bit of the plastic throttle catch mechanism away to give it the needed extra play. Once everything was sorted and I changed the oil again and we went for a first flight. It runs amazing and after adjusting the carb and timing chain, is a very quiet engine. I took it straight through the woods with no trail like I used to. It performed beautifully the whole way. Such a great little machine even after nearly 30 years. No fenders so I was covered in mud splatters and loved every minute of it.

You did a great job but man... I am not a fan of those headlights. Really love the look of the stock bike and those just... don't look right. I would have kept the stock ones and put aftermarket LED bulbs in the them or just run the light bar only with stock headlights. Looks aren't everything and I'm sure that functionally they are better. Not my bike so my opinion doesn't matter though!

Where we're at you hear wintergreen and think of dip 🤣 eBay, Amazon, Chemical supply companies, and yes hippie shops with their essential oils but that route is expensive and contaminated with other junk. I bought a gallon years ago and still have most of it. Don't search Wintergreen oil but look for Methyl Salicylate (same thing) You just need a splash so the gallon was complete overkill. Should pay less than $100 for a gallon https://www.ebay.com/itm/Methyl-Salicylate-Tech-Grade-1-gallon-128-oz/264497335349?hash=item3d95450c35:g:gCwAAOSwf9ddoyXp

If you ever get really motivated to renew a piece of rubber and haven't done it before it is really pretty easy. As mentioned earlier Methyl Salicylate (Wintergreen Oil) is a fantastic rubber treatment. You would take off the old boots and clean them extremely well in degreaser before boiling in a weak solution of water and MS for about 5 minutes and then allowing them to cool before treating with grease and oil. I use a splash of wintergreen oil in a 1000ml beaker of water on a hotplate stirrer but you don't have to go that far. Works great with a normal pot too. Sounds like a lot of work but it gives great results. I have done this to old rubber parts of many different kinds and it always works. I've put old cracked boots back on after treatment (Because we had nothing else) and they are still holding grease to this day

Spot on Jeep! I don't do paid computer work anymore for that exact reason. Every time you interact with the public it becomes a cost/benefit (like anything else) In my experience, people were unable to fairly evaluate computer work in general. It usually included travel and hours of waiting on updates but people think it should pay minimum wage rates. If someone was fair to me before, I now just do whatever they need for free. Small circle of people and as time goes on they need me less and less. I am wondering whether the independent mechanic thing will suffer from the same setbacks. Going forward, I think that I'll estimate even higher. I'm already shooting at 150% but I think I'll double it and hopefully give them a happy surprise every time. Even though this customer knew ahead of time how much they would be in for it came time and they weren't happy. Extremely happy with the work but basically thinks that I should take $100 for all the work and just charge for parts. Also giving me grief about rounding up the cost of parts by ~$2 (while not accounting for the time it takes to order and receive)

Thank you everyone for your input! $70-$90 at Honda (depending on which shop) and $50+ for indys is about standard here. The customer was so unhappy with this invoice that they may not pay.

So you would go with Honda NOS as a first and best option? Followed by a used OEM? Considering that Honda NOS is dead reliable I tend to agree but a rubber part would worry me. As I mentioned earlier if I was to get an old part would have to give it the Methyl Salicylate treatment before I felt good putting it on a bike that was being restored to new condition. What would you do in his situation? Buy the NOS and treat it? What do you use?

Correct. Depending on difficulty of work. $15 for general cleaning/painting and $20 for any work that Honda normally charges $70/hr Some see these rates as completely unreasonable and some the deal-of-a-lifetime / one of their best kept secrets

Hello everyone! Take a look at the invoice below and tell me your thoughts. I am curious what you all think of the rates and overall opinion. Personally, I've seen people pay much more and much less but I'm curious where this would stack up elsewhere. Thank you for looking! BILL TO Customer DESCRIPTION RATE QTY AMOUNT Seat Cover (Black) (Parts) $40.00 1 $40.00 Battery (Parts) $50.00 1 $50.00 Air Filter (UNI) (Parts) $30.00 1 $30.00 Headlights (LED) (Parts) $30.00 1 $30.00 Spark Plug (NGK) (Parts) $10.00 1 $10.00 Oil Filter (OEM) (Parts) $25.00 1 $25.00 Hand Grips (Parts) $20.00 1 $20.00 Oil / Coolant / Lubrication (Parts) $25.00 1 $25.00 Electrical Connections / Heatshrink (Parts) $10.00 1 $10.00 Wire and Harness Wrap (Parts) $10.00 1 $10.00 Solder Connections x24 (Labor) 24+ solder joints to reconnect main harness, choke and temperature monitor $5.00 24 $120.00 Wire Harness Repair (Labor) Re-wrapping the harness where frame had rubbed away original protective wrap $20.00 1 $20.00 Front End Alignment (Labor) Bent front right a-arm and front bumper $20.00 1 $20.00 Parts Replacement (Labor) Hand Grips, Oil Filter, Air Filter, Seat Cover, Battery, Spark Plug, Headlights, Assembly $20.00 3 $60.00 Painting / Rust Prevention (Labor) Multiple parts on visible surfaces of bike / Stripping and repainting of side covers $15.00 2 $30.00 Paint (Parts) Engine primer, engine black and frame black. $10.00 1 $10.00 Detail (Labor) Wash / remove grease / treatment / protection $15.00 2 $30.00 Detail (Parts) Plastic, aluminum and painted surface treatments, cleaner and protection coating. $10.00 1 $10.00 SUBTOTAL $550.00 TAX (9%) $49.50 TOTAL $599.50 BALANCE DUE USD $599.50

So are you saying that part number 42203-HA7-771 (AKA the OEM 1988-1989 350D boot part number) is not correct for the 92? Not saying you are wrong. I trust your word, but what part number is/was it then? My impression from earlier was 89 350D parts are interchangeable with 92 Canadian model