oh400ex

Hello! I'm comparing the Dynojet PCFC (Power Commander Fuel Controller - $199 USD) and the PC5 (Power Commander 5 - $299 USD) Can anyone chime in on these products? Many conflicting viewpoints online regarding this. Personal experience is limited with fuel injected bikes. My understanding is that PCFC is a basic fuel controller (more analog) while the PC5 does ignition timing, variable fuel delivery and many other "features" (all digital) The intended goal here is to richen the fuel mixture a bit for longevity of the engine. Performance is not a concern in this context. Thoughts? Thanks for reading!

Mine had no extra wires. If you don't put a few fog lights on it and run through the mud it won't be yours Edit: I had a much easier time than you because of a more compatible frame and stock head.

¡Hola y bienvenido! Recomiende descargar su manual de servicio. El que necesita está mal etiquetado como "2014-2016", pero en realidad es 04-16

Solution looking for a problem. Never see a situation where you need this but it's cheap enough lol I could start mine with the back tire in the air. Just held it up, turned petals with my hand and released the clutch.

Thank you to those who served!

I have ran those. They are pretty good! Rip-off of the Maxxis Bighorn pattern. Those will last a LONG time compared to ITP Mudlites (or similar) if you run hard-pack surface much. Yes they are China tires but good ones.

Great point and this is why I would only buy used. Cheaper and tested OEM reliability OEM used is ~$65 USD shipped from a reliable seller with warranty on part.

Agree. Personally do not care enough about performance gains to change from OEM. They work perfectly. If you want more performance... (in general) I would recommend a different machine. Tool for the job... Even though it isn't all bad and my earlier statement was too far I still agree that OEM > Aftermarket CDI

Looks like it. Green for safety and yellow for full chisel is my understanding. Matched to the bar. Green is no good for me but I wouldn't feel that way if I was cutting brush (or just light duty stuff) Top end and carb rebuild are dead simple. Name brand parts will make your install very smooth in comparison. Have several saws that start within the first few pulls with cheap eBay carbs on them. If you are going cheap... a top end kit and carb can both be had for under $50

Surprising no one I use this... https://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-Multi-Duty-Complex-Hi-Temp-Grease-14-oz-Tub/16795246 I know it is at least equivalent to the Unirex 2 certifications but haven't compared the 3. Similar stuff with a different label and doesn't practically matter IMO.

I think he might of been asking why not tilt it forward (down)? Would that put tension on the chain, release tension or do nothing? Something else?

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What if one of your motor mounts is spring based? With the intention of tensioning the chain by the position of the motor in frame... what made me think of it was talking about giving more slack by moving the engine back. Maybe some muffler springs to keep tension? Pulling the head closer to the frame? Is there even a pivot point to use in that way? Just a thought... not claiming it's a good one 😂 I think you will end up with new chain and sprockets if you keep it for any amount of time. Mine were off a small dirt bike I believe.

Same but just local tire shop instead. I live pretty far away from a tire place and have the tools to do this job but don't. You get away with it most times but when you don't it wastes so much time that you could have paid several times over to have it done. Edit: If you are going to do the car thing there is a great trick. Need one board under and one on top. Set the rim against a tree or wall and build the over under board thing on the other side. Then just drive up as close to the rim as possible. If there is more than one person it is much easier. This method works 100% of the time but will potentially waste half a day and can easily damage things and/or hurt someone.

I have put one together. It came disassembled because it was cheaper to buy like that as well. Pretty sure this site is the distributor for "Holzfforma" (Say it quick and with a growl and your buddy might think you said Husky) The one I built is the MS660 clone. The G660. Still a beast today and that was a few years ago. If you buy 10x they are something like 180 bucks a piece but one at a time they are only ~$300. I'm sure they are not actually "commercial" saws but we use the big saws so infrequently that I wouldn't be able to speak on running it everyday for a long time.

Soothsayer @Fishfiles you may be right According to what I could find online... if there was no "Made in Argentina" stamped into the box and there was only a sticker... it a knockoff. My old reliable 400 possibly had a China CDI on it for years... and it is the best running stock 400 I have ever ridden... Slammed experience with a Rick's is very similar to mine. 450 would not even run and just cut out as soon as it was put in gear with that box in it. Jeep was bang on with his advise. If you are going to get one make sure it from the source directly. I walked straight into that one in hindsight lol You basically had to! Edit: I have a few OEM CDIs for 400ex so I will 100% be doing a comparison. I am hoping the OEM makes it run better as that would make everything right in the world again. lol

Oh man I laughed at this too hard 🤣 Made in Argentina was a bit more clear until I tried to wipe it clean lol Gahhh I hate this... I'm am so wrong on this one... You are probably right. I ride this thing and it loves every second of it. I'm now thinking that if the CDI is made correctly... the motor can actually handle the difference in RPM with no affect to the reliability. Completely backwards from how I felt yesterday. I would have said raising the rev limit is the one of the quickest ways to destroy a bike. I still stand behind that to a point but on the 400ex platform and a Rick's CDI that is not a knockoff... it just isn't true. The reliability on this bike is perfect. Only caveat is I do service it really often as far as changing oil and cleaning filter goes. Sometimes after one real hard ride I'll go ahead and change/clean/oil. I'll be getting a Rick's for the 300 now... I have to know lol

Mmmmmmm.... humble-pie I'm here hat-in-hand to say that I was wrong about Rick's Electric CDI. I just found out that my beloved 00 400ex with stock motor, UNI filter and White Brothers exhaust has a red CDI box... Just never crossed my mind to look closely but was pulling the bike apart to service a few things and noticed it today. This bike is incredibly reliable and has been ridden many trouble free miles. So my thought that "even a good aftermarket CDI hurts the reliability" appears to be dead wrong too. This thing has always been special. Everyone says its got to be a 440 and I tell them stock but they won't believe it. I have ridden 400exs for many years and with many different aftermarket CDIs over the years and this one always felt special. It wasn't my "perfect" jetting that I was giving credit to before... it was a Rick's Electric CDI that made it run better... My preconceptions are shattered... I am having to completely rearrange my brain regarding how I feel about this type of thing. Full credit goes to @Fishfiles on this one... He said they were good and that my experience with the 450 was either a one-off or a knockoff product. (China) I was wrong and he was right. Simple as that. The one thing I will stand behind is that if you are wanting reliability over performance go OEM only. I was on the "OEM CDI only" train with my seatbelt fully locked and tightened but I jumped off this morning. Still hurting a bit from the fall lol Thank you for reading!

Wow. Thank you for sharing but I'm sorry you ever had to go through that... man Nothing in particular mechanically... it's more of a feeling. "That's just a little lumberjack" "It wouldn't possibly hurt me... " "I rode that when I was a kid" "I remember my grandpa riding one of those..." This thing just looks and feels so tame but the combination of the instability, it being heavy and the balloon tires being bouncy is just no good. What I said earlier pretty much sums it up... I don't know of a single machine that has hurt more people I love than the Big Red line. I would still own one... while knowing I am riding a tiny monster.

Hear this please. That is not a joke in the slightest. That ATC... the big red line are arguably the most dangerous bikes ever made. This is true. Someone very close to me has actual permeant brain damage from (all things considered) a very low speed crash. There are more people with horror stories about big reds than the 200x. That is not a joke. Please be careful! @Fishfiles Is it you that got-got by the big red or someone you know?

Fish is this you? lol This is one of the good ones out of people who purposefully destroy things. He does it with respect for the bike and is the one doing the work after. What he says at the end just perfectly summed up my thoughts on the matter... "Try that with anything but a Honda lol"

Please be careful. These might be the most dangerous ones they ever made. Know personally a few folks who had their worst ever wrecks on a Big Red. I have had some pretty hairy crashes on one myself. At least the 200 wasn't heavy and was nimble enough to correct a problem. This one will lull you and then try to kill you. Edit: 85,86 and 87 Big Red don't have high/low range and the older ones do I guess. The one I owned had low range. I don't think I've ever ridden one without high/low come to think of it. Mine was also kick start.

That one is more dangerous. Don't think it's actually much more complicated once you get the rack and fenders off really. High and low in the transmission makes it complicated but you aren't getting into that hopefully. I would strip it to the frame and get all the rust now before it gets any worse. That thing looks in great shape! Here is the most important thing you can do... In-line fuel filter! Good (Plastic) | Better (Metal) | Best (Glass) What you will run into time and time again with these old metal tank bikes is a small piece of something getting into the pilot jet. Other than that just reset the air/fuel screw to stock (2 turns out?) and make sure it's really clean again. Choke sticking can be another tail-to-chase regarding idle.

Well the new owner and I tore into the bike and have evaluated the engine. Long story short is that it was smoked. The PO (who put it back together) should be ashamed as the bearings were CRUNCHY. The cylinder had already been sleeved but has not been taken to the wear limit so one bit of good news (hopefully) is the local machine shop can handle the bore. Full seals and gasket kit along with OEM crankshaft and OEM bearings are on order. Should be splitting the case soon. Today I ported the cylinder... Any time the die-grinder comes out there is a situation happening lol It didn't go too bad. I bet it runs OK. This isn't my first time porting but I am not claiming to be competent at it. Fully aware that I may have destroyed this one but the alternatives were leaving the crooked and non-ported sleeve or lots of money. If that kind of money is getting spent on this it will be on a new OEM cylinder as they are still available. (~$500 USD) Had to fire up the cutting torch to get the foot peg mount bent back into place but the frame is getting stripped and repainted so it was no big deal. Plastics are all bad enough that they will need to be replaced but the new owner agrees that can be after he has broke it in. Aside from the engine work it will need wheel bearings, swingarm bushings/bearings, steering stem bearings, chain/sprockets, levers, cables and clutch pack. Tons of work ahead on this but the whole bike fits on a shelf so it's pretty manageable compared to bigger projects. Thank you for reading