Goober

It’s a 4WD? Because that fender looks like it came off an early 2WD. No fender guards and no drill holes for fender guards? The body gaps between the 2WD and 4WD front fender and fuel tanks don’t mate well. You might confirm this if you look at parts diagrams —they might be different numbers. that ignition switch might be the current draw problem. Two circuit wires and two ground wires on this switch—intended to be separate circuits—are sometimes wound together. nice project but yeah like Jay says verify that VIN before you start buying parts because a 93 CDI will not work on a 95 model

Is there a way to keep the heat shield on your new tailpipe? —cuz man you gonna need to keep that sidecover and your leg from melting

Welcome start a thread on your rig let’s see what ya got! there’s some real knowledgeable members here—I‘ve learned so much from them. I’m an OEM, no mod needed kinda owner. my favorite is the TRX350A—superclose is the TRX300FW.

Lil bitty TreFitty

Buffing on the fender with some Novus Plastic polish

You have an exciting life! Wrenching on quads and being the best at it! Beats squinting at a screen all day. Here’s a better pic of that spring install

I have one in my goody box—I got it from Rob several years ago. i had never looked at it before

Hey @Shadetree here she is with the bonnet on. Oh man yeah it had a Cobra muffler on it and used mufflers are pretty hard to find. So I painted this one up. yeow that 2000F primer and paint is trying to hold up. I ran it up the road about 10 minutes in granny gear—looks like smoke coming off the head I don’t think it’s the header paint. The oil wasn’t 160F, so I’m going to test two spare oil sensors and swap out. lol @Fishfiles no I don’t wanna get it muddy just yet

Ok after this post I’ll be caught up. I’ve spent two days painting primer and paint touching up rust spots. lot of worn and missing parts went into this build. I haunted fleabay for months for these: Both hand levers NOS Foot brake lever NOS Front/rear bumpers take offs Fuel tank shield and rubbers Breather box and hoses Complete battery box assembly Air box rubbers Air filter and body Air box cover Carburetor and hoses Brake master cylinder NOS Starter Steps Complete Toolbox assembly

OMG what an awesome restoration!

A few random pics of the project leading up to the reveal. i acid-cleaned the fuel tank, rebuilt the petcock and carb, and replaced the fuel pump because it constantly buzzed—wasn’t pumping. I replaced the handlebars and headlight bracket when I replaced all the harnesses. After i started getting fuel, it took me weeks to find and repair the ignition problems. It had the wrong stator and CDI. Duck0fDeath gifted me a stator. I rebuilt the Kill/Run button, gear position harness and stator harnesses using scraps of old harnesses and colored pens to make sure the wires were the same color. as soon as i hooked up the stator, it fired.

Sorry about that! I had the springs changed on my work quads but that was before i started wrenching my own. dang how do you change the spring without pulling the shaft?

Does it work now? You need to fix those bare and barely there connections. What is going on with the wire in this picture? With a good picture you can Have someone fix these for you. to do properly you need 18-22 gauge waterproof bullet connectors good strippers good crimper Use the same color wires—don’t just hook up some random piece.

DOhh i was looking at this IPB—sorry bout that—well now that brightens up that picture!

Unfortunately the spring is on the right side. If the shift lever is floppy is most likely the spring. Then you’ll need right and left side OEM gaskets

Is the shifter lever hanging down and not returning to position? That could be broken shifter spring Probably dry shaft seal try spraying some oil on the shaft seal—maybe it’s just dirty and corroded. You can clean the shift shaft if the surface spray doesn’t work—remove the left case but be careful not to dislodge the shift shaft when you take the cover off—if you do this. You have to remove the center prop shaft, but if you follow thr manual explicitly then it’s something you csn complete betweebreakfast and lunch. Especially use a thick cloth when prying off the front of the prop shaft. spray everything with Deep Creep first and gradually apply torque to the bolts as you remove them.

This fuel tank was in terrible shape—rusted outside and inside. i put a pound of BBs and two gallons of cleaning vinegar in the fuel tank. I wrapped it in bubble wrap and cardboard—rotated it in my cement mixer for three hours. then i used a magnet to remove the BBs i then mixed a gallon water with several tablespoons of Hot Tub High pH chemical—something hydroxide—sodium carbonate—I cant remember. Anyway i dumped the vinegar out and neutralized with the high pH solution. then dumped it out and dried it with a hair dryer—after drying i swirled around a cup or two of fuel to remove the dried pool chemical—no water! so anyway here it is a year later—pristine

@Wampus_cat youll also see i used OEM fuel lines—these are molded tubes—which I doubt you will be able to find without cracked ends. you’ll find them on used fuel pumps which is another reason to buy old pumps LOLs . if you don’t have them you will have s hard time with the fuel line —try to keep those lines short and no kinks

Here ya go @Wampus_cat the straight pipe goes to the filter the curved pipe goes to the carb the “overflow” is not an overflow—im pretty sure it is a vent for the pump diaphragm—i show that vent pipe T in yello if you have fuel coming out of the small tube i think you have a hole in the diaphragm i have a couple old ones here in the shop I’ll take a closer look

Here’s what’s left of the fenders. They’re going up in my garage attic while i decide what to do with them or when my kids have the auction lols

Proud of this work removing stuck fasteners—right down the center and no melted plastic

It hasn’t been too bad Jeep; the old engine guy must’ve gotten into the head to replace a valve—there’s an oddball adjuster in there. I couldn’t get it to start after i got it home, so i pulled the fenders to get a good look at it. The choke and throttle cables weren’t mating to the knockoff carb, the starter was squealing, the fuel tank was rusty mess! The racks had crushed the fender into the right side harness area, chafing nearly all the wire bundles. Here’s pix of some of the damage. Took me all winter to find and rebuild every single wire harness on the quad. I used wires and connector parts from some old harnesses, too.

I’ll pick up the story about my current project. Two years ago my wife bought this quad for me as an anniversary present. Awwww. It came out of an estate sale. I think the owner was a small engine guy—but no welder lol—he installed some ugly shop-made carriers. Those heavy racks broke down onto the fenders and led, eventually, to at least one rollover. About 60 lbs of steel. sad ol tank, looked like it had been stored in an outbuilding with lots of mice, webworms and spiders. All the harnesses were chewed and every switch, hose and crevice was filled with worm web. It suffered from the common blight of non-OEM parts: master switch, carb, CDI and stator. Many parts were missing, rusted, bent or broken. You could tell someone tried to look after it, but these old rigs are picky! the current owner got it started, i ran it around to listen to the engine, run all the gears and check front axles. Except for a hard neutral light, all was good. I lost all my purchase pix but here’s after i started stripping the racks.

I need to start a build thread on my second 86 TRX350A i used Rustoleum rust reformer and painted all the bare frame spots. That mouse pee sure did eat on the old paint. I couldn’t tear it down to repaint the whole frame—I’m OCD enough already anyway it’s ready to go back together —i bought a set of good wheels and tires at an auction for $100. Cha CHINGA