Goober

Okay! I can’t say that high resistance value would inhibit ignition but it’s way out of spec. Maybe you could remove it test it and see if you get a better reading. Otherwise change that puppy and try again eh?

Okay I’ll give you members the secret. i use Szeged steak rub on the meat. For the liquid: sautéed onions and shrooms, vegetable stock, tomato paste, Better than Bouillion seasoned vegetable base, dried parsley, bay leaf, thyme, and instead of red wine i used some sweetened cranberry relish

If warmer then resistance should be less. whats your service manual say it should be 9.5kohms?

Keep in mind the oil temp sensor Circuit does go to ground through the sensor BUT there is a specified ohm range for the sensor. Normal i think is 9.5KOhm?—so put a lead on the sensor connector and one on the case you should read some resistance. Have you done a circuit test on the kill switch? To access the connector you have to pull the fender and unscrew two bolts from a little plastic box forward of the steering head

Thanks no i first laid my hands on an ATV in 2012 or so; I maintain several at work (facility mgmt) and have a few. Became associated with several of these fine folks about 5 years ago—I’m still a little green—but i learn from folks and try to pass on as well. It took me awhile to be able to give any worthwhile advice, so if it’s helping you then you’re very welcome

Excellent; yup don’t give up on it yet. you have a service manual right? And a multimeter i saw. great diagnostic flowcharts in there. gotta make sure that plug is correct spec according to manual and sometimes those plugs crack/fail. Ohms check the coil primary and secondary and then pull the cap and check those parameters too. If that wire end is corroded, then snip it off. Sometimes that cap end gets rusty too. Clean every connector using contact cleaner and a plumbers flux brush. Use a light film of permatex dielectric grease on every connector you open and apply using a separate plumbers flux brush.

You still have your old CDI? Sometimes they build up humidity and it affects circuit performance. consider drying it out in an oven at 200F (no higher) for at least three hours. Let completely cool before reinstalling. your new coil a resistor type coil (is it OEM)? Do you have the old coil? I would try it. Check your old cable for corrosion where it’s fitted on the spark plug connector. I had firing problems on my current project and cut off half inch of the cable—really badly corroded. After that it fired fine.

I made venison stew using all the legs from a muley and a whitetail. I cooked the legs in a hot water bath (sous vide) for 72 hours. Meat was tender but not mushy. Best stew i ever made.

@shadetreei see you have a speedo gearbox mounted—do you have a speedo kit for it—yknow the gearbox cable, sensor, head n all? oh i see it has an ATC head.

LOLs np @_Wilson_™ so @Outdooreagleis trying to get a 99 TRX300FW fired. Various parts replaced. I hear signal going in to the new CDI but not coming out. so i gather pulse generator signal getting to CDI? thot it would help to have a good pic of an OEM CDI. FF posted of a new one i guess the design has changed so maybe pic not needed. i don’t have a schematic for this one.

Hey @_Wilson_™ got a pic of the CDI from your 00? my 98 is at the job site We wanna see whats your CDI/connector look like?

Now hang on there’s only one CDI that will fit a 98-00 model and that is the CDI with the built in alarm unit. It has the two top-mounted connectors yes? @Outdooreaglejust keep trying there’s something else going on. Do you see spark as you are kicking it over?

Bummer! Looks like you have easy access to the valves. Follow the valve setting procedure I mentioned. Take plug out, Pull those two little valve covers off; pull off the flywheel bolt and generator inspection covers. Rotate the engine clockwise and watch those valves move. i use a deep well socket, a small extension and a breaker handle. You can use a ratcheting handle — preference. you’re looking to see if one of your valves fail to move, do both rocker arms move, etc. First step you’ll see the intake valves open. as you cycle you’ll see them close and flywheel T mark will pass by the inspection hole (TDC compression) keep cycling and the next thing both the exhaust valves will open and you’ll see the T mark again. Keep cycling and they will close and you’ll see the intake valves open again.

check your kill switch set to RUN After cranking Do you smell fuel @TrxPipUK in the spark plug hole or exhaust? Anywhere?

I was told not to rotate an engine backwards but i didn’t question or think about it i see from this service manual there’s no warning against it. Pip, page 3-5 gives instructions on setting valves. Here’s a pic of the naked flywheel—you’re not going to pull this cover but this shows you the bolt you’re going to rotate with and where the marks are.

Many engines have two and sometimes mores valve sets in a head. This maximizes air/fuel delivery and exit. You don’t see two carbs in this setup but you do see two exhaust pipes, because engine designers would have had to direct the separate exhausting valves to a single pipe or a double pipe. Dumping into one exhaust likely created Too much heat buildup between the valves. see the exhaust valves inside the head?

Hit it with the starting fluid first then Do your compression test. If you don’t have or can’t get a tester then you can strip it down to check the valves—you need to set them anyway which could also be your problem. read your service manual about the engine firing sequence. There are two times the piston will be at Top Dead Center, but only at 1 instance will it be the compression (firing) stroke. You set the valves when the piston is at TDC firing because both sets of valves will be closed. At that point the valve rockers will leave a gap you can measure i read my service manual quite a bit—i have three printed copies. One in shop, one in the den and one at work.

Pip you have to get to the valve covers, so you have to pull the air cleaner box. heres a pic of the valves—intake set to the inboard, exhaust outboard to front of quad. Take off the generator inspection and flywheel covers as you rotate that flywheel through two revolutions you'll see the valves open and close. Don’t rotate backwards!!!

Immediately after you let off the starter do you hear the fuel pump buzzing for a couple seconds? if not, then Open the carb drain see if there’s fuel in the bowl. you should hear the pump buzzing otherwise do you have a valve stuck open?

Yuasa 6V/12V kit with clip and pigtail sets

There’s no good way to bypass it. You risk damaging other components. you have the service manual? if it ran well all summer and now only runs if you hold start switch? tells me electrical. this model is a one year type of ignition system—there are two other CDI/ignition systems. CDI can fail, but wires can break, connections can become intermittent. There’s a lot that can trip up here. I recommend you start with all OEM components, Download the service manual it has diagnostic diagram you need to follow.

Starter, starter gears, stator, stator cover there’s $200 right there if they check out. then you got the alternator and flywheel covers another $25 -$50. Sell the CDI and fan control for $25 unknown condition. Oil cooler All sorts of bolts and the frame. Oh yeah I’d do it for a benji but offer $75

What greases are you using Shadetree? some bearings call for lithium, others for moly? I had planned to use the Valvoline or John Deere extreme duty poly grease (because that’s what I already have). I didn’t want two more grease guns but ill get them if i have to.

Hondaline TRX350 Body Cover i bought for my Chili Pepper build. never been out of the package. Of all of the TRX350A options from Hondaline, i only lack two. An original mudflap kit and Pop-It ATV flag; i have the CMP mudflap kit and a repop flag.