What did you do with your atv today?

[riverc 1,317]

1 hour ago, jeepwm69 said:

 

Doesn't really serve any purpose from a lubrication standpoint.  I do it to create a grease barrier to try to keep water from getting to the differential, should water leak in past the hub/axle tube seal.

 

 

Ok, I won't worry about packing it don't plan on riding the BIg Red in mud & water parts are hard to find and pricey use it mostly working around yard pulling my garden trailer.

[jeepwm69 7,611]

1 hour ago, riverc said:

Ok, I won't worry about packing it don't plan on riding the BIg Red in mud & water parts are hard to find and pricey use it mostly working around yard pulling my garden trailer.

 

Yeah if you're not using it in water, just pack some grease in the bearing and run it.  Bearings last forever if you keep these things out of the water.

 

 

[Wheeler 2,525]

Today had to call Honda & order a new U-Joint ($192!!) Replaced it 5 years ago. But when I put it in gear I’m getting a clunk 8-10 times. The shaft from joint to diff is discontinued or I would have bought one too. Got some swing arm bearings as I did them with diff rebuild all at same time. Rear diff seems ok.. but I’ll inspect better once parts arrive & swing arm off… the 355bbk wasn’t easy on gear let alone the new 400bbk.

Edited August 16, 2023 by Wheeler

[Misterclean 421]

On 6/24/2023 at 9:51 PM, Fishfiles said:

Flipped my 300 upside down in the water today , my leg got stuck under the atv , I was pinched and couldn't get my leg out , almost drowned , lucky my buddies acted quick and got it off me quick ---- got a really bad bruised up thigh , black an blue and swollen ---- can't take a pic as I lost my phone , some kind of way the dry box opened and the phone went in the water , spent a few minutes feeling around on the bottom with no luck 

I had to help a friend out on two occasions in similar situations. One was a young teenager ripping it up on my trails while i was mowing some grass with my tractor. I just happened to look over and saw he was trapped after flipping his wheeler. He had been there a few minutes! LOL Another time me and a friend were riding our dirt bikes in the Sam Houston National Forrest. I was in the lead and came to a fork in the trail. I stopped so he would know which fork to take. Waited several minutes and backtracked a few miles to find him trapped under his bike. Somehow he crashed in a high sandy berm and his foot peg was on top of his helmet pinning him to the ground. One of the funniest things I've seen.

[jeepwm69 7,611]

On 8/14/2023 at 9:22 AM, jeepwm69 said:

I pulled the left rear hub off the Rubicon I've been working on.  Broke one of the wheel studs off and was going to replace it.

 

Found a trashed hub, with deep grooves in the sealing surface.  Replaced the seal, and went ahead and drilled a hole in the axle tube, added a zerk, and put about 50 shots of grease in there.  Used a different hub I had on hand with a good sealing surface.  Bearing felt good and tight so left it alone.

 

Drained the diff, found some chocolate milk in there, so poured some stuff out of my parts cleaner in and turned it over until it cleared up, let it drain out, and then filled with fresh gear oil.

 

Pulled the brake side down then.  Both cables were seized, hub had bad grooves in the sealing surface.  Pads actually looked ok, as did the drum, but the cam was seized, and in working the pads back and forth to get them off, I noticed they are seized to the pins in the backing plate, so the pins were rotating, not the pads rotating on the pins.  Was full of dust, but no moisture, which was interesting. 

 

Pulled the whole backing plate off, dumped it in the parts washer, and called it a day.

 

I also spent a bit yesterday scrubbing the camo remnants off of the fenders that are going on this machine.  It will be a tan Rubicon when I put it back together.  The camo was about gone on several sections so I just cleaned it all off (aircraft remover and a scotch brite pad), will run down with some Wipe New to get the chalky stuff off.

 

Heat index has been 115-120 the last couple of days, so didn't spend long working outside either day.

 

Got the brake pads and pivot pin out of the backing plate this morning.  Had to use my press on the pivot pin, and my old MAPP gas torch to heat up the brake shoes to get them off of the pivot pins.

 

MAPP-Pro gas in the little yellow bottles sucks now.  It's basically glorified expensive propane.  MAPP was 5300 degrees.  MAPP Pro is 3730,  Propane is 3600.  MAPP was discontinued in 2008.  I had some I used for a long time, and when it ran out I got MAPP-PRO not realizing it was different.....until I used it and found it sucks.

 

I have Oxy/Acet torches, I just need to get my regulator checked.  It's from the old man, and is probably 30-40 years old, and I'm concerned that the diaphragm might not still be sealed.  Don't really want to blow myself up.

 

Gotta order a new drum cover, as when I was driving the old seal out of the old one I noticed a pin hole in the cover (which is probably why it was dry inside and full of dust instead of mud), and am going to put a new bearing in the backing plate while I have it off.  Also getting a new hub since the sealing surface on the old one was grooved. 

[Misterclean 421]

23 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

 

Got the brake pads and pivot pin out of the backing plate this morning.  Had to use my press on the pivot pin, and my old MAPP gas torch to heat up the brake shoes to get them off of the pivot pins.

 

MAPP-Pro gas in the little yellow bottles sucks now.  It's basically glorified expensive propane.  MAPP was 5300 degrees.  MAPP Pro is 3730,  Propane is 3600.  MAPP was discontinued in 2008.  I had some I used for a long time, and when it ran out I got MAPP-PRO not realizing it was different.....until I used it and found it sucks.

 

I have Oxy/Acet torches, I just need to get my regulator checked.  It's from the old man, and is probably 30-40 years old, and I'm concerned that the diaphragm might not still be sealed.  Don't really want to blow myself up.

 

Gotta order a new drum cover, as when I was driving the old seal out of the old one I noticed a pin hole in the cover (which is probably why it was dry inside and full of dust instead of mud), and am going to put a new bearing in the backing plate while I have it off.  Also getting a new hub since the sealing surface on the old one was grooved. 

Good idea to check for leaks on the diaphragm. Earlier this year I heard an explosion close to my shop. My shop is just a few hundred feet off the train tracks and some some sparks from a grinder made their way around the spark screen and ignited a leak in work crew's oxygen tank. The door from the cabinet blew off it's hinges striking the workman in the back. I hurried over to check it out. His body was jelly at the impact point. He died a few minutes later. I had visions for several weeks of the suffering man.

[jeepwm69 7,611]

! man, that’s awful.

 

 

[_Wilson_™ 6,567]

It was good you could be there with him .... Misterclean, but  I'm sorry you had to experience that. 

[Fishfiles 20,145]

14 hours ago, Misterclean said:

Good idea to check for leaks on the diaphragm. Earlier this year I heard an explosion close to my shop. My shop is just a few hundred feet off the train tracks and some some sparks from a grinder made their way around the spark screen and ignited a leak in work crew's oxygen tank. The door from the cabinet blew off it's hinges striking the workman in the back. I hurried over to check it out. His body was jelly at the impact point. He died a few minutes later. I had visions for several weeks of the suffering man.

Wow. So sad.  I seen something years ago that was awful.  Was working 1/2 block away. Found out later that it was caused by a guy that was drilling a hole in an aluminum center counsel which incorporated the gasoline fuel tank of a boat.  Didn’t realize that he was drilling into the tank.  Blew him to pieces and burnt him to a crisp. Lost both arms and legs but he lived. The entire metal building was destroyed and had to demolished 

[Fishfiles 20,145]

Finished wiring up the winch controller for the green 300 and found a skull shift knob for the hand shifter  , fab'ed a couple of  fairleads for the red and green 300s , made a winch plate for the red 300 out of a 450 winch plate , took the light bar and winch off the 450 I am selling , man the price of light bars went up , I paid $20 for the light bar in the pic below back 5 years or so ago , the prices  are !'tra'nomical nowdays 

 

Got a after market petcock for like $14 , OEM was like $65 , cleaned the tank out 

 

Started making a trailer hitch for the 250 rear ends in my 300s 

[Misterclean 421]

8 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

Wow. So sad.  I seen something years ago that was awful.  Was working 1/2 block away. Found out later that it was caused by a guy that was drilling a hole in an aluminum center counsel which incorporated the gasoline fuel tank of a boat.  Didn’t realize that he was drilling into the tank.  Blew him to pieces and burnt him to a crisp. Lost both arms and legs but he lived. The entire metal building was destroyed and had to demolished 

I was a freshman or sophomore in high school (1974, 1975?), same train tracks two blocks south of my shop's location today, an 18 wheeler hauling gas stalled on the rr crossing here in Spring Texas. A southbound train hit the truck and exploded on impact. The one of the men on the train were able to hit the brakes but the fireball of a train still went about a half mile thru town before it stopped. I lived a block and a half from the impact zone. Killed two or three men. An arm with burned hair was found in front of my friends house which faces the tracks a few hundred feet from the impact. Later that afternoon I watch them pulled out a stiff crispy body from the train and put it in a plastic bag. The last man was hard to find because he had attempted to survive the gasoline fire by hiding himself in a compartment in the floor.

[jeepwm69 7,611]

Got up early this morning and went through the rear brake panel on this 2012 Rubicon I've been tinkering on for months now.

 

New bearings in the backing plate.  I had to repeatedly heat the backing plate and old bearings to get them out.  I was worried I'd break the backing plate in my press so I would heat, press a bit, hose down with PB Blaster, press, heat etc.  Finally got them out without damaging the backing plate. 

 

Got the cam pin and the two pins the brake shoes go on cleaned up and lightly greased, new seal and felt ring/ dust cover put on the cam, brake shoes and springs back on, and put a new seal in the drum cover I got from PSN.  Got the assembly onto the rear axle and now need to figure out exactly where to orient the cam to give me pad contact on the drum with minimal movement.  Didn't have time to do that this morning.  I also cut off the old foot brake pedal, which was completely seized.  I got another from PSN which will get drilled and tapped for a grease zerk before I install it.  I did that on the wife's Rubicon and it's still free and works well.

 

Got a new foot brake cable in, and already had a new hand brake cable for the rear.

 

I have a feeling all of this work will result in a rear brake that doesn't work worth a crap, but at least it should be well sealed now.  In my experience a new brake drum and shoes will be required for it to work well, and on a  Honda used in mud and water, the factory rear brakes just don't hold up very well.  Water always gets in, and then they suck.

 

I've replaced the seal on the pivot/ cam pin, the seal on the drum cover, and have a hub with a nice smooth sealing surface, and I'm going to put a little sealant around the backing plate and grease the big o-ring when I put it back together so hopefully it will keep water out.  Not sure if I'll get a new drum and pads if all of this doesn't work well.  They are $$$ and I consider rear brakes a temporary fix on Honda ATV's. 

 

That said, the wife's Rubicon has rear brakes that work great, so I thought I would put a little effort into this once since it's going to be a cruiser and not a mud bike.

[jeepwm69 7,611]

Got the lever drilled, tapped, and zerk'd this morning.  Messed with the placement of the rear brake panel lever thingy, but didn't have time to work much so didn't finish up.

 

Foot brake lever and new cable in place.  Repositioned that lever about a dozen times to get it where I wanted it, and then it didn't act like it wanted to spring back to disengage the brake pads when I let off, so I think I might have to get everything in place and tight, then tweak that arm a bit to move straight forward/back.  It seems to be hanging up on the threaded portion of the brake cable now.

[Wheeler 2,525]

Replaced the u-joint yesterday. The splines where it connects to the driveshaft were wore down BAD. Funny as the front output shaft side was great. Rear end was great other than the spring on driveshaft was bound up. She’s super tight now. Ready for hunting season!

[jeepwm69 7,611]

I messed some more with the rear brake on the Rubicon.  I think with my rotating the arm back a few teeth that the cam pin is turning a bit more than it should before it engages the pads against the drum, and that the pin is hanging up no the pads a bit.

 

Ordered a new set of aftermarket pads and will try those out.  If that doesn't get it right it's getting sealed up and run without rear brakes like the rest of my rigs LOL

[jeepwm69 7,611]

Got my cheap new brake pads in, and for once everything fit perfectly.  I couldn't believe it.  Rear brakes feel great now (at least with the rear on jack stands) and I have a tight foot and hand lever with all of the adjustment left on the wing nuts on the back.

 

Old pads didn't look THAT bad, but when compared to new, they were pretty worn.

 

 

[jeepwm69 7,611]

I also put the carb and a good gas tank on my neighbor's 300.  He's the guy I rebuilt that tan 450 for a few months ago.  He bought a weathered but hardly ridden 300 from a widow a couple of years ago, and the rusty gas tank sprung a leak, and his carb was overflowing, so he had his father in law rebuild the carb, and I swapped him a good tank and will give his old tank a can of POR15 tank sealer I have around here somewhere.

 

Also go my kid's tan 300 going again.  Went to move it last week and it wouldn't run for more than a second or two.  Acted like it was starving for gas, and when I pulled the line off the carb it was barely dripping with the petcock in run or reserve.

 

Tried to take the bowl off the bottom of the petcock and the whole bowl disintegrated.  Was full of white powdery looking crap.  Swapped one off of another tank it and fired right up and runs like a top.

[Fishfiles 20,145]

[retro 4,048]

The first breakdown occurred on my 2000 Rancher 350ES  a few days ago. I went out to warm up the bike to run bait refills out to bear stands and it barely cranked over fast enough to start. I checked the battery and it measured 11.74 volts with the key off, but while it was running the charging voltage measured good. So it was just a shorted cell in the battery. Quick and easy fix.... and trust is restored that it'll carry my grand daughter back when she's out having fun on it. I wish I could afford to put together another one just like it, for her.

[jeepwm69 7,611]

Got some more work done on the Rubicon this weekend.

 

Rear fender, rack, and mudflaps installed

 

Front bumper wire wheeled down and painted. 

 

Got a new Yuasa battery installed, along with winch lines and contactor.  This takes me down to one dry Yuasa left.  I hoarded a few of them back when they were $65ish, and now they're almost twice that.

 

Got the wife to sit on it and hold the handlebars while I adjusted the steering, got it aligned.

 

Wouldn't idle worth a crap though.  Runs good at throttle but won't idle at all, choke or no choke, so going to have to pull the carb back off.  When riding if I left off the gas it would die, and then would sometimes thrown an error code 10.

 

So, will probably clean and swap on a different carb (or might use the NOS one I have).  Winch plate will be here today, so install front bumper and winch, and then I think I'll be down to putting front fender, rack, and side plastics on and will hopefully be able to ride it.

 

Oh, still gotta bleed front brakes too, and put a new sending unit in the gas tank.

 

 

[balljoints 161]

Did the wet clutch , housing , one way bearing and slugs in the ole grizzly. I never ride the stupid thing I should have sold it LOL.

 

She has 8300 miles and the one way bearing was shot so I just did it the right way and replaced it ALL. Only larger repair its ever needed, I could have survived without the one way bearing since it only does engine braking, but i like to maintain my stuff.

 

 

And shes happy again!

 

[jeepwm69 7,611]

Got a little bit done this weekend.  I feel like Johnny Cash and "one piece at a time" sometimes with this one.  LOL

 

Front bumper, winch plate, and winch installed.  Used the most beat up front bumper I had, because chances are I'm gonna beat it up some more.  Took a little bending, and had to chase all the threads with a tap before I could get it all in place.

Got that done Saturday morning, then had to run off to the kids' college for "Dad's day" 

Got home with an hour to spare before the Ark/LSU game, and the wife and little one were at a birthday party so had time to get a new cable put on the winch and then called it a day

 

Yesterday after church I put a NOS carb on the machine, and drove it up and down the street.  Had to take the adjustment screws off of the rear brakes and chase them with a tap to let them adjust more easily, then quit for the day and took little bit for a ride on my Foreman.

 

So I THINK all I need to do with this one now is install front fender and rack, floorboards, and bleed the front brakes.  This thing has taken me FOREVER to get back together, but I'm working on it 30-45 mins at a time so it is what it is.

[jeepwm69 7,611]

Had some time to do a little more yesterday.  Got front rack painted, but not yet installed. 

 

Front fender on, tank covers installed, floorboards are put in place, but I still need to paint and install the steps (the jagged metal footrests that bolt onto the foot pegs).

 

So I'm down to the final few bits.  Need to put front rack on, paint and install steps, and put the forward "air guides" in place. 

 

MAN have prices gone up on the little bits and pieces on these machines.  The little cover that goes where a footshifter would be on a footshift machine?  Over $100 now!

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Wheeler 2,525]

Had to fix my neutral wire, replaced the battery under warranty, & new to me Voltage Regulator. After 700kms or 435miles I checked the valves in new engine. Still bang on .004. As per Webcam. The plug looked great too. 
 

 Believe the 2007 Grizzly fan I’m running is using a lot of juice!!

Edited September 29, 2023 by Wheeler

[PROV 1,439]

I dropped mine off for service today. Was hunting some rough country way out in the boonies. A quarter mile from a logging road my machine made quite a lurch and shudder and wouldn't move. The boot coming off the rear of the engine must have had a cut I didn't see. Water washed out the grease and the clay did the rest. Blew the U-joint. Buddy I was with towed me to the road. Was able to get a text out and the gang brought a trailer 8 miles to pick me up. I was relieved it didn't break where we had been. Towing out of there would have been an adventure of it's own. Had to borrow a machine from my son until mine is fixed. It's a 2005 500 Foreman in great shape. I can say if I had to ride that all the time I would have to quit riding. 2 days of riding and my wrists, back and hind end hurt enough to quit and come home. I wouldn't give up power steering and independent suspension for anything!!