shadetree

man..i sure hope you have air condition in that dog house ??!!..lol.

omg !..lol. yep...its crap like that, that makes me wanna slap their momma !..lol.

oil temp sensors are always hot, just like the neutral and reverse switches, when you ground them to the engine, thats what turns the dash lights on. so, you will need to check the power lead on the harness side that runs to the oil temp sensor, it should have 12 volts to it ?.

pm sent !.

welcome to our forum !.

i agree, light bar looks better mounted down low.

you may need to use a flat screw driver to stick in area's to CAREFULLY MIND YOU !!, pry the cases apart, try not to apply much pressure !!!, so you wont dig into the sealing area where your doing this prying !!!.

see those raised pins sticking up out of the end of the shift drum from where you removed the cup ?, those !. again, check to make sure you removed all the case halve bolts ?, if your certain they are all out ?, take a block of wood, rest it in the rod area on the side thats on top ( you have the motor laying on its side with the output shaft on the bottom ), use the block of wood against the round area where the rod is sticking through, then smack the crap outta the other end of the wood, sooner or later you will see the case start to come apart. try to hit a solid area around the case halve to keep it coming up evenly !.

if the honda key fit this ?, i sure hope its not stolen !..lol. i'm with fish on this, part it out, not worth saving, not unless you make a buggy of some sort out of it ?. i would not waste my time or money on it.

i can't wait to see this finished !, outstanding !.

and before you say...how do you know shadetree ?..well..i know just about all there is to know about these models !..lol.

wilson did not link ebay ad, goober did, this one ---> https://www.ebay.com/itm/133370190947?ul_noapp=true , its all there, what i dont like about it, that fuel pump sheathing looks just like the 20 dollar ones on ebay !..lol. oem from honda is not that bright blue ?, and the pump for a '86 that clean where the lines connect ?, sorry..not believing thats the oem pump !..lol.

liquid wrench, reg wd-40, and rust penetrating from wd-40, i've tried pb blaster, dont like it, can't find kroil around here ?, fish said he'd send me some ?..lol. just stocked up on the brands i just listed today !.

unless your in a hurry ?, give me a couple days to get back to ya, let me see if i can round the bracket up. been really busy lately on projects, just never have extra time anymore !..lol. that one on ebay would work if your in a hurry ?. all of the brackets are made the same to fit all pumps from 1986 to 1989.

ty !.

ty !.

and don't lose the pins in the end of the shift drum !!!.

did you remove all the bolts, FROM BOTH SIDES ????.

whats it worth to ya ?, if the price is right, i might be able to dig one up.

you will need to pull shifting shaft out, before you try to lay it on the flywheel side. over on clutch side, main clutch gear needs to come off, as well as the shift drum cup before you can split the cases. and i see a lot of bolts still in the engine cases ?, remove them, then tap the right side off the crank, make sure you lay it down on the flywheel side !. no need to unbolt the output shaft.

np, glad to help. be sure to keep us posted !!, we like pic's !!..lol. if ya get stumped ?, just holler at us !!, me, some one, a member will be here to guide ya !. be sure to down load the service manual from our site here, its the best tool you will ever find in your tool box !.

forgot, you may or may not need to remove the oil cooler lines ?, i can't remember right now ?, but it has two lines attached to the front cover. DONT LOOSE THE O-RINGS ON THE ENDS !.

ok, now you must drain the oil, or stand it up on the back end. i find it easier to just drain the oil. pretty sure your atv is 4x4 ?, if it is ?, you will need to unbolt the front diff ( 3 main bolts, 2 small bolts on the very front of frame. yank it forward as far as you can pull the front drive line, then go to left side, reach in, and push the drive shaft forward at the coupling ( its spring loaded ), push it forward, off the output shaft of the engine. now you need to remove the front cover. all the front cover bolts are 10mm head. once they are out, pop the front clutch cover off, there are tabs spread around the cover, this is where you put a long screw driver at, and tap the cover off, try to hit all the tabs evenly !. MAKE SURE YOU REMOVED ALL THE COVER BOLTS !!!!. once the cover is off, you can see the cam chain in the top left corner when facing it straight on. with it being a 2004 ?, chances are..your cam chain is too far stretched , and needs replacing. purchase a D.I.D. cam chain !!!, you can find them all over ebay. or you can go oem from partzilla.com if they still sell them ?. in order to replace the cam chain, without tearing the top end down ?, you can just leave the cam in the engine, and remove the two 10mm bolts from the cam sprocket, its best to do this with the cam chain still attached. DO NOT PULL THE CAM OUT !!, if you pull the cam out ?, you face the task of digging the push rod followers out of the bottom of the engine !!!. in order to pull the cam out, the top end must be torn down, so you can pull the cam followers out BEFORE YOU PULL CAM OUT !, if you dont pull the cam followers out, and yank the cam out ?, they drop down into the lower engine, this will ruin your day !. dont worry about removing the bolts off the cam sprocket, both the end of the cam, and the cam sprocket have a punch mark stamped on them, its impossible to mix them up as long as you pay attention to the punch marks !!!. before you even get to the cam chain, you have to pull the centrifugal clutch, oil pump, change clutch. all of this has to come out in order to replace the cam chain. there is also the cam chain slack adjuster, it will need to be screwed back inwards in order to get the cam chain back on, its bolted right in front, bottom of cylinder, you will notice there is a hole right above it ?, you can use this hole to remove the screw from the top of it. if you can get the screw out ?, you will have no choice but to tear the top end down. if you do have to pull the top end down ?, then you will need a top end gasket kit in order to put it back together.

the kick start lever itself, yes, remove it from the shaft. your doing a complete tear down...right ?, so, everything must come off. take lots of pics, before, during, after, double, triple check your work as you go along, this way you will have a up front idea if you screwed up when going back together.

it does not matter what it did before you changed carbs ?, what matters now is...why wont it start NOW ?, it s very simple concept bro: IT MUST HAVE ENOUGH COMPRESSION, AND THE CORRECT TIMING TO START !. 40 psi is too low to run, now you must tear it down to find out why ?. sooo..lets dig in..and get your atv fixed !!!. remove the fuel tank, heat shield, muffler out of the head, or all the way off the atv. start taking the top end down, which means rocket box, then the head. you will need a good 1/2 drive metric socket set that has a 14mm, 10mm, and maybe even a 8mm. start taking the top end down to get the head off, we'll guide ya if ya get stumped ?..you can do this !. plan on buying a valve spring compressor tool, you will need it to put the valves back in the head. a top end gasket kit will be needed as well. dont take it to a shop !!!, we can help you step by step, wanna waste your cash ??, then paypal it to me !..lol.