toodeep

I'm surprised @retro hasn't blanked out that dirty word yet.... ads.😀 That's something that will never be in the plans and I hope we are never forced to do it, even tastefully.

Problem code 5 is for the angle sensor system (control motor lock). I would start with checking the connector and wiring going to the angle sensor (left side under the plastic cover just below the exhaust). If that looks good I would then remove and clean the shift motor (I can posts pics on that process if needed) and reinitialize it. Make sure the gear the shift motor turns, turns freely. If it still is giving issues then you can start testing but it's probably a bad angle sensor. If it comes down to that don't cheap out with the aftermarket ones, OEM costs more but they work.

Sometimes the KISS method is all that's needed. 😁

Welcome to the forum.

Welcome to the forum.

Welcome to the forum. I have a couple more years before I get to that stage but they are sneaking up fast.

Welcome to the forum. I think we have a space on here for everyone of your machines.

That's correct. On the old 350 they would accidentally get 250 brushes so it made it turn backwards to the way it was suppose to.

Helm inc. is the genuine honda service manuals. That's where the dealers purchase them.

I've put them in the drill press and used a flat file to true them up again. @Goober are you sure you got the correct brushes? If the positve and negative brushes are swapped they will turn backwards (seen it plenty of times on the old 350s). Same with the positive and negative cables that go to it.

If you can't get any neutral out of it (regardless of the indicator) something isn't right on the transmission. It could be as simple as a washer in the wrong place or a gear upside down. I about forgot what I was going to post after the vehicle porn..

Welcome to the forum.

A relay could be used but I think it could be accomplished with just a simple switch and running some wires. A visual of what i was thinking. Switch up would be modified and switch down would be normal.

It's just condensation that builds up and has no where to go. In the past we would drill a little hole in the case so it would slowly drain back into the motor where it can evaporate like it's suppose to through the breather. I've never seen a problem with the gears not getting enough oil to lubricate them with that hole there. On those 5 bolts you removed the bottom one is just a touch shorter than the top 2. If they are mixed up you will get a slight oil leak.

I've never done it (about to to my sxs for plowing) but all it would take is a DPDT on/on switch. One way it would reconnect to the gray wire and the other way it would connect to the white wire. On the other side you would wire the little reverse switch so when you was in the modified mode it would disconnect a wire going to it but when back in normal mode it would reconnect so the original switch would still work like it was designed. Like I said I've never done it but it works in my mind. 😀

Welcome to the forum.

Welcome to the forum. That's one of my favorite machines.

Welcome to the forum.

The clutch lever is for starting and stopping.. lol I rode a blaster with the clutch on the right side. Trying to get your mind to release the clutch and throttle is something else. It was my cousins though and he list his left arm in a wood splitter so mods was done.

Welcome to the forum. The sport section is pretty blank so don't be afraid of posting anything.

We have those types of dealers as well and it keeps me busy. If you do find an mcs reader on ebay or even the older hds I can probably hook you up with the files needed.

There's nothing cheap about the honda tester and I dont even know if the general public can get the files to update/operate it. I would call around to some different dealers and see what they would charge to just clear the codes, no strings attached. If the problem is there the code will just reset so they can't guarantee anything but it would be done and you would know where to proceed.

I've never done the erasing of the codes manually since I have the MCS. Sometimes timing is key when doing it on other machines so you might try it again and just forget the screwdriver for now. It either didn't erase the codes or it's tripping new codes.

Do the part numbers on the EPS ECU match on the old and new? I'm trying to dismiss any possibility of a wrong part before digging into the testing to find the problem. With the wiring harness being different (most likely for a different machine) I have to cover all the bases. I know your past ready to smash it with a hammer but we should be able to figure it out. Electrical problems are just hard to do over the web.

Yes but I'm guessing you wired it color to color connecting the wires. The order the terminals are in the connector could be different and if they are it will never work. If you used the quick barrel connectors that also could give an issue with a bad connection.