shadetree

you can check the condition of the crank/rod without splitting the cases. deff need to inspect the rod at the top and bottom for damage !.

you need to tell this buddy to put the winch where is belongs, and upgrade the rims to trx450fm rims, then he can put disk brakes on the front.

what could be wrong ??, complete engine damage is what could have happened !. pretty much the whole top end has to be checked out, nothing should be left untouched at this point. putting the oil filter in backwards is like running your car/truck with no oil !!!, it wont end well..lol.

i'd rather be bored and money in my pocket, than poor and wrenching 24/7 !..rofl.

here ya go --> https://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-1986-1989-TRX-350-D-Intake-Exhaust-VALVE-SET-ALL-4-MADE-IN-JAPAN/274379266994?hash=item3fe2475bb2:g:6VYAAOSwqNdeoxiD . oem are discontinued, these are all over ebay. if i were you, i would jump on these fast !. and these folks ship fast.

lets make this simple ( or try too ! ). remove the pull crank starter ( if you have one ? ) from the rear of engine, remove the spark plug, remove the valve caps. remove the sight cap ( inspection hole cap ), at the back of engine, notice the line on the pull starter cage ? ( if there is a pull starter ), now notice the raised triangle on the engine case, line these two up, now look into the sight hole, your should see the T mark ?, it should be on the index inside the hole threads. now, slowly turn the rear crank ( at back of engine ) bolt counter clockwise, as you do this, watch the intake valve, it SHOULD start to go down as you slowly turn the crank counter clockwise , IF IT DOES NOT ?, then you had all your timing marks set on the exhaust stroke, WHERE THEY SHOULD BE ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE !. if the intake valve DID start to move as you turned crank counter clockwise ?, slowly turn it back clockwise, put the line on the starter cage with the raised arrow on the engine case, check to make sure the T mark is aligned inside the sight hole with the index, now adjust your valves. if the intake valve DID not start to move from where you first started ?, slowly put the timing marks back where you started, now turn the crank clockwise one FULL turn, all the way around until the line at the back lines up with the raised arrow, check the T mark in the sight hole to index, now slowly turn the crank backwards ( counter clockwise ), the intake valve SHOULD start to go down, if and when it does, go back clockwise slowly, set the lines where you had it, check sight hole again, now adjust the valves. if you do all of this as i say ?, then it should be correct !. I've done it this way for years !!, and not one time have i had loose valves ( and no..i do not use feeler gauges, but in your cases, you should ! ). if you still get rattling sounds after doing all this ?, then you got other problems, bad cam chain ?, bad valves/valve guides ?, hard to say without hearing and seeing it in person.

just a thought here bro, why not just buy new valve guides, and replace them yourself ?. all you need is a shop press, some new or used valve guides, presto..done !. i may have a lead on a used head for a 450 at my buds place, i'll see if he still has it ?, if he does, i'll see if i can get it from him for cheap if you want it ?. if he still has it ?, i'll '' pre-assemble it '' for ya, then get it to ya, then all you need to do is bolt it on. if you want to just go your route, thats cool too, i'd just like to save you some cash :-).

not only will it be loud ?..but it's gonna vibrate too !..rofl.

come on now...please don't confuse the man any more than he already is !!!..rofl.

i've got a spare muffler set off my '08 shadow spirit 750 stashed in my shop attic, i could make one of them work if it comes down to the nut cutt'n..lol.

this muffler has mounting bolt spots in certain places on it and the frame. sure...you could '' jerry rig '' a muffler on the atv, but i'm not about that, i try my best to make my builds stay stock looking as much as posb if i can ?, but some times this dont always pan out when it comes to atvs that are over 30 yrs old !..lol.

boy..you sure ain't lying there !!..lol.

must be a stupid clock eh ?..rofl.

ah..i thought i said something wrong ?...lol.

ummm..what kinda clock you got ??..lol. ALL clock hands move left to right when you face it head on.

most places like honda, dont want to deal with parts for atvs that are 30 something years old, sooo, they stopped making them these past few years like everything else..lol. as for why they rust like they do ?, i ripped this bad one part last night, the way they designed them ?, i can see why they rust out along the bottom edge.

prob cuz they had your parts come from the other warehouse, they have two separate spots they store parts in.

rocky mountain atv has been top notch on shipping here lately, i've ordered parts from them, and they got here 5 times faster than partzilla has been.

most times lower bearings can be re-used, i've yet to run across bad lower bearings. sounds like your plan of attack is on the right path !.

thanks..but no thanks..i wont pay that kinda money for a rusted up non-oem muffler. i will keep looking..not in a hurry.

clock wise is..well..clock wise !..lol. to the right !. the allen head i think ?..is a 6mm if i remember right ?..please dont sue me if i'm wrong !..lol.

when you checked end gap with rings in cylinder, did you check the top, middle, and bottom with all rings ?. have you checked wrist pin in top of rod for play ?.

y'all are just plain spoiled !!..rofl.

her stress level ?, what about your wallets stress level ?!..rofl.

my first thought is crap still in tank, getting to fuel injector.