shadetree

update: ok pic perv's !, i had a chance to tinker around with this old girl these past fed days ( was waiting on some parts ), got a few things taken care of, slow progress for sure !. got a new oem fuel pump in, front area cleaned and painted, front brakes torn down, had to order new shoes today. got the front swing arm in, front shocks painted and installed. front diff was torn all the way down, and inspected, then put back together, filled with fresh 80w-90 gear oil same as rear diff. taking a break right now, enjoy the pic's !.

in other words, i set mine to open at the same time, prob the slide raises a tad before the butter fly, thats how i do them.

2nd from bottom is guess what ?..THE MIDDLE GROOVE !..LOL. as for throttle cable slack ?, dont matter much, what matters is that tang i spoke of ^^^^, that must be correct !. reason : it lets the slide rise BEFORE the butter fly opens, catch my drift ?.

haha..i could write a book on stuff i've learned through the 29 yrs i've been doing this !. your right, oem honda service manuals are top notch, but !!!, they tend to go strictly by the book !. some things i've learned to by pass, and do it regardless of what the manual says !. for instance, it says to use a clutch puller tool to remove the centrifugal clutch ?, nope..good ole hammer..and its off ( don't try this at home folks ! )...lol.

man..i see those baffles missing in tons of carbs lately !..lol.

didn't you already post these pics somewhere else on the site ?, and i said replace them. for the record, all trx300fw's use the same clutch parts from 1988-2000 :-).

ok, then which ever side is NOT shinny ?, it should face up. reason: the shinny side spins against that bearing, where is the side that slides onto the shaft bottoms out on the shaft, and does not wear.

and i hope you installed the main jet needle seat in before you put the main jet tube in the bottom of the carb ?.

first, set that dang manual off to the side, its causing you trouble !..lol. second, lets take this step by step, cuz..your all messed up on what part is what. lets start with the main jet needle, c-clip: middle groove, nothing else goes on it, then put it back down in the carb. pilot jet needle ( air/fuel mixture jet ) : o-ring on the end where the slot is, then spring, then tiny silver washer, then tiny o-ring. MAKE SURE YOU GOT THE OLD TINY WASHER OUT OF THE HOLE !!, install the pilot jet into the carb, turn it all the way down in until it lightly seats, now watch ONE end of the slot, back it out in 1/2 turns at a time, in other words, when watching that end of the screw, you count the turns as your watching it go around in 1/2 turns. most times this setting is 2-3/4 turns out ?, i forget, and dont have my service manual in front of me ?. inside the float bowl area, small jet screws into the side of the body where a rubber plug sits down inside the very bottom. next tube over from it: this is your idle jet, large tube over is your main jet holder, unscrew it, hold it up to a light, see if you can look through the small holes in the side of it ?. they need to be clear. next: on the throttle cable side of carb where you attach the throttle cable, the cam is connected to a rod, rod goes to the top, operates the slide. on top of that rod is a tang, you want the slide all the way down, and the butter fly to be closed at this point, pry the tang up a tad, by doing this, this lets the main jet needle slide rise BEFORE the butter fly opens, its critical that this part is done right ?, or it wont run right. last but not least ?, you must have the passages in the carb clean !.

o-ring ( tiny one ) goes on main pilot jet , like i said, spring, tiny washer, then tiny o-ring, it then has an o-ring that goes on the bottom, or end when facing down installed, then you have a o-ring that goes on the drain screw.

there is no washer on the main jet needle ( long one inside the slide ), just the c-clip, middle groove.

and this is WHY i do not mix and match parts from diff models !..lol.

yes, install spring, washer, then o-ring. that plastic part that's missing should be there ?, but it will run without it. if you think that one screw was bad ?, wait until you have to remove those two tiny screws from the bottom of the slide to change out the main jet needle !..lol.

regardless of what you think ?, no..all 300's DO NOT sound like that..least not any i've built !..lol. that sounds bad..very bad !.

if that truck has on-star ?, they can track and locate it !..lol.

yep..i got it out in my shop right now..sooo..take that !!..lol. i'd take a pic of it, and post it..but then yu'd just cry..lol.

check your pm :-).

tells me, your cam is not timed right..lol.

cam mark looks good, what does the T mark in sight hole look like ?, and what about the timing marks at the back of the engine look like ?, all 3 should be dead on, with the piston at top of cylinder.

all timing marks should line up !.

never heard of them ?, i run itp mudlite AT's on all of my atvs, 6-ply, love them !.

good deal !. you may have to '' tweak '' the clutch adjustment a tad to dial it in ?, but i think you will be fine.

haha..i hate to rub this in your face ?!, but i've got a complete drive shaft that has a tight bearing in it !..rofl.

with the tail gate hanging down like it is in the pics ^^, they have been doing this alot, covering the license plate number !. i will keep my eyes pealed up here in arkansas, i dont care about a reward, just this guy getting his atv back, the person in jail is payment enough for me !.

why ?..you had how many chances to buy the '88 trx300fw i restored !..lol.