shadetree

because your shift drum is turned into gear...lol, face it correct, then turn shift drum when you go to install bolt. why the heck did you use copper spray on the case half's ????..dang nabit..JUST THE GASKET !!!!, use the copper spray on the head gasket ONLY !!!!.

nope. wrong oil will just make the clutch slip.

has this atv sat up for a long time ??, if it has ?, chances are, the plates ( friction ) maybe sticking/stuck together, this will make shifting gears hard.

hondabond 4 will work great.

and welcome to the forum.

c.d.i. is bad, replace with oem from honda.

update: got the motor stabbed into the frame, got the top end together last night, decided to see if it would crank and run ?, i had no idea about the starter ??, or even if the cylinder had enough compression ?, if felt iffy too me ?. anyway, got fresh honda oil, honda oil filter, new c.d.i. installed, temp hooked it all up, put some fuel to my fresh rebuilt carb, choke enrichment valve is new honda as well. turned the key on, tested for spark with spark plug laying on top, got spark ! ( better have ! ), put the spark plug in, put fresh fuel to carb, slid the choke over, turned key back on, hit the start button, within 2 sec's....SHE'S ALIVE !!!.

very well could be both jeep ?!. starter brushes wear over years ya know ?..lol. and the battery should be showing more than 12 volts ?, BUT !!!, batteries ARE NOT what cranks atvs, cars, trucks..everything ?, ITS CCA that does it ( cold cranking amps ), if the cca is bad ? ( from a bad battery ), it will turn over slow, or not at all..lol.

i just went through this with a brand spanking new washer and dryer set, G.E. , i took them back so fast..the paint ripped off of them in the back of my truck while in the box when i returned them to lowes !..lol. put my old kenmore and maytag back in, changed the belt on the dryer ( kenmore gas dryer )( belt still good, decided to change it anyway ), old set ( 30 yrs maybe ? ), and they are still kicking !!!. todays appliances SUCK !!!!.

adjust the clutch. no..thats not normal.

good deal, sounds like you got it under control..lol.

dont need to soak anything on the centrifugal clutch if its used ?, new..yes..old..no. same goes for the friction disk in the change clutch. no, do not use loctite on the change clutch bolts, i dont anyway. for removing gaskets ?, i use a utility knife blade, pocket knife, scrape most off, then i use my bench grinder that has a wire wheel on it to remove the remaining gasket, if you do it this way ?, try not to hold it in one spot very long !, you do not want to make the sealing surface uneven !.

** SOLD ** !

bout time you started posting pics !..lol. your in great hands here !.

welcome !. bout time we got some skill around here..oh wait..we already do !..lol.

oem pump ?, or china crap from ebay or amazon ?, is the fuel cut-off replay new ?. if you got it from ebay/amazon ?, thats why it died !..lol. you can't wire them to a switch..it does not work !.

haha...as they get older ?, your in deep crap !..lol.

the angle sensor is used to let the ecm/c.d.i./ecu know if and when the shifting shaft has turned.

you will need to mic the cylinder, check it to the service limit of the current spec, see how far its close to being out of service limit for that size ?, if its near , at, or above the limit for that size ?, then you must have it bored over to the next size up, sooooo, lets say its std ( standard size right now ) ?, you would then need to have it bored over/out to .025 service size, if its already been bored, ran at this size , and has reached it's service limit for this spec ?, then you go to the third size over/out, which would be 0.50, so on, and so on. your main prob ( dont know about over there for parts ? ), is finding a piston kit that will work !. over here, as i just found out the other day, my project has std rings ( 81.00 mm bore ), i can not get a piston, but i can still get std rings for it ?, but all other pistons that are oem above std i can get, but the rings are discontinued !..lol.

welcome to our home !.

got the handle bars installed, new grips, new end caps all installed, steering shaft with new upper bushing installed, call it done for today.

update: was tearing rear diff down yesterday/lastnight, left rear axle hub bearings and oil seal were shot, hub is great, axle is great, ring and pinion gear is great, brake side is great as well !. been doing painting and more cleaning today, got the first coat of gloss black on the frame. made a trip to wally world ( was not looking forward to that trip ! ) , stocked up on 10 cans of black gloss, 4 cans of easy off oven cleaner, i took some before and after pics of the rear brake parts, cleaned them, then used my bench grinder with the wire wheel to polish those parts up, ya'll decide for yourself if you think the easy off works ?, it works for me !. i got a few parts on order, those will be awhile before they show up, no rush at least, taking my time, tearing down, inspecting, picking through the dirty parts, and cleaning them as i go. enjoy the atv porn !.

haha...she out fished you !..lol.cutie !.

rocky mountain atv has just as good prices, they will ( or used to ? ) price match partzilla. plus they have a lower price limit to get free shipping, and you earn bonus bucks on current purchases to use towards the next purchase.

and who makes these ?..lol. just because the number match ? ( anyone can post numbers on ebay or amazon ! ) DOES NOT MEAN THEY ARE CORRECT !. buy oem, or from boss bearing ( i've had good luck with these in the past )..being cheap will always come back and bit ya on the butt !.